Researching TX for our trip westward.

[RJ Howell]

We're contemplating traveling through Texas (San Padre Island/San Antonio/Big Bend areas) and really don't have much info after we leave San Padre Island. I've linked my YT post explaining what I have in mind and hoping for some input from you folks in the region.

Any spots I should visit while passing through? Any spots to pass on?

Open to all suggestions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qY3GZSNq0xQ

[dogcatcher]

Near Big Bend is Tin Valley Retro Rentals Campground. Checkout the Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/tinvalleyretrorentals That should be an incentive to at least stop by if not spending a night.

As to the Big Bend area, including Marfa, Fort Davis, Alpine etc., this is an area people either love or they are ready to get out there as soon as they get there. The state park at Fort Davis was our favorite campground when we lived at Odessa, easily close enough for a weekend get away. 2nd place was the Balmorhea state park and the natural springs swimming pool, not sure if the pool will be open by the summer, they have been doing extensive rework on the pool. But the campground is an ultimate desert campground experience.

As to Big Bend, there are some good campgrounds in the Park, we like the one in the basin, but beware, it can get cold at night in the summer. We usually stayed at the Rio Grande Village, as our trips usually were in the spur of the moment and without reservations.

The oil field is booming, campgrounds are packed, both in the oil production areas, and anything within a few hours of commuting. Recreation area campgrounds are their relief from the daily grinds of work, so reservation in West Texas are a must.

I will add more as I think of them.

[featherliteCT1]

I really enjoyed watching and listening to your Youtube video. I am vicariously enjoying your trip and look forward to hearing more. And by the way, I am VERY jealous!

[swoody126]

WOW!!!

what an ambitious undertaking !!!!!

you didn't mention where your trip begins or i just missed it and your home base/area is not mentioned in your stats

Padre Island National Seashore as shown on your map is mostly uninhabitable for normal folks w/ average vehicles

4x4 is an absolute and so is high ground clearance

AWD SUV's/grocery getters wont cut it

there is open beach camping(if the park is even open) south of the visitor's center and a bit down the way there is a sign warning folks about being ON YOUR OWN and they mean it

no services of any kind past that sign

natl seashore sign.jpg (23.45 KiB) Viewed 1416 times

once past the sign you can not expect any dependable cell service and unless you have a sat-phone or marine band radio you will have to walk out in the event of issues

thatsa LONG WALK and recovery from that area is EXPEN$IVE

if intending to camp on the island best to stay up near the visitor's center or go up the island to between Corpus and Port Aransas and stay at the Mustang Island State Park if you want a beach experience

camping down there IS WINDY and sandy particularly if you camp on the beach

at this time of year the beaches are usually cleaner than in the summer when the seaweed and washed up trash can be a real issue

for the most part the beach is not groomed by any stretch of the imagination though in the winter it isn't too bad

the beach is considered a public roadway and in the patrol'd area speed limits are enforced

when measuring distances down there it is in hours not miles as the speed limits are low and miles can mount up

when coming off the island we always stop n eat at a place called Snoopy's where hwy 361 goes over the ICW

mostly fried seafood and right on the water w/ tugboats pushing barges along w/ fisherpeople n sailboaters running up n down the ditch right in front of your table

the Texas State Aquarium is located right by the aircraft carrier Lexington under the big tall Harbor Bridge in down town Corpus

my family loves the aquarium

from Corpus San Antonio is just over 3hrs up the blvd or about 4hrs up 181 thru the country

be prepaired to do some walking in SA to see the Alamo and River Walk as the parking garages are a coupla blocks away

do stop in the Menger Hotel(across the side street from the Alamo) for a treat of western history

it was in the bar there where barb'd wire was introduced to the west

heading west from SA on 90 is Brackettville where the movie The Alamo w/ John Wayne was filmed

hwy 90 runs just south of Texas Hill Country which does take some time butt sure offers some different(for Texas) scenery

running on west on 90 and just after you cross the Pecos River on the high bridge is Langtry where Judge Roy Bean(Law West of the Pecos) held court and the original Jersey Lilly court and bar building is still standing

good place to stretch your legs

turning south on 385 at Marathon make sure you're fuel tank is top'd off

once in the park speed limits are much sower than out on the highways so plan on extra time

the main visitor's center in the park is @ Panther Junction where fuel is sometimes available

you can learn what you need/want to know about the park there

leaving the park turning west @ Studdy Butte on 170 you will go thru the thriving community of Terlingua where the 2 world championship chii cook offs are held the 1st wknd of November each year

take the little side road into "town" and visit the general store

on west to Lajitas where there used2waz(before 911) an informal border crossing

on west to Presidio along the Rio is a beautiful drive

somewhere just before you get to Presidio is the turn off to Big Bend Ranch State Park which is plumb desolate

1 hour and 10 minute/26+miles dirt road from 170 to park headquarters

north on 67 from Presidio you go thru Shafter where they mined cinnabar

between Marfa and Alpine is a highway pulloff where you can see the "Marfa Lights" at night(look them up)

north of Marfa is Ft Davis and the McDonald Observatory

then on west to ELP or north to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Carlsbad

BON CHANCE

sw

[DJ Davis]

RJ,

Woody gave you a lot of great info. I can fill in more on South Padre Island (SPI).

Like he said, you can access North Padre Island (NPI) at Corpus and go south. I've heard of many folks doing that. Most recently was Grotto. Reach out to him and he can tell you about his boonie trip just a couple of months ago.

I lived in Harlingen for a while and know quite a bit about SPI. For boonie camping, you have the same opportunity on SPI as NPI. Just drive north! You can also drive down to Brownsville, get on Hwy 4 to Boca Chica and see the Space-X complex. Not really much to see, but if you keep going, you dead end at the Gulf. Turn right and get on the beach and you can drive south to where the Rio Grande empties into the Gulf of Mexico. You're likely to encounter beach bums/beach combers/locals surf fishing at both locations, but exercise caution, as Woody advised. Being close to the Mexico border, there is the possibility of riff-raff.

The state/city parks on SPI are not very nice and sand burrs/stickers or whatever you wish to call them are EVERYWHERE in the grassy areas! There is no shade from trees. There is one bright spot for camping that I would highly recommend - the SPI KOA. It's well maintained, the facilities are nice, and if you don't want to drive, you're close to one great restaurant (Pier 19) plus dolphin watch boat tours and fishing charters. SPI also has a free shuttle service that runs up and down the main drag during the business hours. You can check out the service details on the SPI website. With the shuttle you can enjoy the beach shops, other restaurants, Bird Center, Sea Turtle Rescue project, and other fares or just use the shuttle to get you close to a walk-in beach access. SPI also has a stable at the north end ( you'll have to drive, the shuttle doesn't go that far north) for sunrise/sunset/family horseback rides on the beach. Look them up online, too. Booking online also will get you a discount.

If you are into fishing and want to get off the beaten path, you might consider Adolph Thomae Jr County Park near Arroyo City. I used to launch the agency's boat from there when I worked in the Water Program at TCEQ Region 15 - Harlingen. The park has fishing piers and if you have a kayak, the fishing is good in the Laguna Madre just south of the park. You'll have access to a few small stores in the area, but not much else. The closest "big" store is in Rio Hondo.

Other recommended stops in the area: 1. The Valley's Marine Military Academy (MMA) in Harlingen. It has a duplicate of the Iwo Jima memorial, like the one in DC; it was commissioned to cast two at the same time. There's also a nice, small museum. 2. Drive west on Hwy 83 to Weslaco and turn south on FM 1015 for about ten miles and you come to a border crossing. It's safe to park and walk across because the "Winter Texans" spend a LOT of money there on pharmaceuticals, dental work, and trinkets, so the cartels leave the area alone in the daytime. Basically, when I go, I stay on the main street and stop at the block where Garcias' Canada Store is on the right about four blocks in. My favorite places to eat are Angel's (best shrimp cocktail!), Garcias' (nice street view), Arturo's (try the cabrito), and I've heard Chuy's Red Snapper has great seafood. These places are safe, clean, and serve Cullighan filtered water, if you need to be rehydrated after roaming the shops. One of the best all encompassing stores is the Super Disco on the 2nd block on the right - food, trinkets, jewelry, leather goods, clothes, liquor, you name it. Garcias' Canada Store is a close second. I haven't heard much about border crossing lately, but maybe tripadvisor would have something or even contact the Weslaco Chamber of Commerce for info.

While at our stay at the SPI KOA back in Oct of 2020, we met a couple van camping. They had just come south along the Rio Grande from Falcon State Park on the Falcon Reservoir. They said the park's attendance was sparse, but the park was nice. If you're intending to do a serious "Waltz across Texas," then here's a recommended itinerary: Go to Corpus Christi and check out the attractions there. From Corpus, go south on IH 69E/77 to just north of Harlingen. Take Loop 499 East around Harlingen - this will take you to the MMA which is near the airport. From there, continue to SPI to the KOA for your base camp. When ready to move on again, go northwest on Hwy 83 to Falcon for a quiet rest, then continue up the Texas/Mexico border to Langtry, Big Bend, and then to the Alpine/Ft. Davis area. As Woody said, there are some interesting things to see/do there.

My father was an assistant professor of Geology at Lamar U in Beaumont TX. LU and Sul Ross U in Alpine had an agreement. He would take a group of LU students to Sul Ross U in Alpine for six weeks in the summers for mapping and stratigraphy (sp?) around the Davis and Glass Mountains and at the same time, a group of students from SRU would go to LU for oceanography work, seeing as Beaumont has no mountains and Alpine is kinda land-locked. As a kid, we'd go with Dad and on weekends we toured all of the places Woody mentioned. One he might not know about is about 40 miles northwest of Ft. Davis. It's called "The Rockpile." It was one of the unusual rock formations in the area that Dad would show the students. It's fun to climb around on and at the time, you could see where Kit Carson had had etched his name on one of the boulders. I would hope vandals haven't destroyed that bit of history. Once you strike back east check out the Sonora Caverns and maybe the Commemorative Air Force in the Midland-Odessa area.

Well...that outta keep ya busy looking up stuff on the internet for a while! Let me know if I can give you any other useless info for your trip!

DJ

[dogcatcher]

The "Rock Pile" has been fenced off.

Another "odd" place to see is La Loma del Chivo, some might call it a hippy version of a hostel, motel, BnB or a collection of earth homes. We have not stayed there, but it worth a side trip of 30 minutes to just look at the art of these "cabins".
La Loma Del Chivo | Facebook

There is also the Gage Hotel that has been renovated, and the Desert Garden are also in Marathon. Marathon used to be sleepy ranch town, but has become an artist colony of sorts. The world's smallest Target store was also located in Marathon, but sadly it has been demolished.

At Fort Davis, the National Park Service maintains the original Fort Davis area. Some of the old buildings have been restored. If you are into history, it is a good stop. You won't find the old fort with timber walls and buildings, because the nearest forest is in New Mexico, the Lincoln National Forest, over 300 miles away. This is where the lumber was milled and transported by wagon to build the buildings at Fort Davis.

[swoody126]

DJ Davis' suggestion to goto Boca Chica is something i did on my M/C circumnavigation of the State

hwy 4 down from Brownsville was lined w/ prickly pear cactus plants larger than i had ever imagined

their stems closely resembled tree trunks :-O

once thru Boca Chica i turned right and went to the confuence of the Rio Grande and the Gulf of Mexico

the vehicles behind my skooter were in Mexico

IMG_2553.jpg (841.5 KiB) Viewed 1377 times

and while you're down that far AND if you have your passport w/ you you can ride the Los Ebanos Ferry across the Rio to Mexico

this has been an known active crossing since the 1700's and is still a legal crossing today

the really cool thing about it is that the ferry is HAND DRAWN by a rope(seen at the far right of this pic) stretched across the river

IMG_1291.jpg (860.96 KiB) Viewed 1377 times

¿ aint this funnnnn ?

sw

[DJ Davis]

dogcatcher - Re: The Rockpile being fenced off Once again, it looks like a small group has ruined it for everyone else. I find it sad that some can't simply enjoy the history, uniqueness, and/or wonder of this world.

[RJ Howell]

Wow! What a load of info! Time to digest work out some of this... How I missed this earlier is beyond me! Thank you all so very much!

I'm working on my Sister to meet us in San Antonio and be our tour guide (since she lived there for several years). Hard sell so far... If I do convince her, then it would be more like San Padre / San Antonio / Carlsbad, NM. BUT... I now need to work through all this info and make some decisions!

One asked where I'm located or starting from, well, the Nor'east, New Hampshire! Our departure date has changed to Jan 20th due to an appointment I learned of a week or so back.

I've been posting and updating most of the process I've been going through planning this on my YT site.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLy0NzvsooT0RZc6vkRHbQOFFSZaXVZggv

Once again, you folks are awesome for the info!

[RJ Howell]

Been marking out much of what you folks have mentioned and plotting a route through Texas. I think the smartest route may be to make San Antonio the 1st stop, then south to San Padre Island (north), then head south to San Padre Island south (thinking I wish to do Adolph Thomae County Park instead). My Sister is over in Pharr and being probably the next stop. That runs us along the Rio Grande to Falcon (which also was mentioned). You can see on the map the areas you folks have mentioned (short Pharr/Langtry). I will decide once in the area on Big Bend NP. It would be hard to pass on it being we'd be so close...

The Alamo I have learned is under-construction, repairs and all being done. That's a bit of a shame, yet the balance of the Mission trail and Riverwalk is open (so far anyway).

[swoody126]

help me understand

¿ where did you come up w/ the term/name "San Padre" ?

we have always called it Padre Island stretching from Corpus Christi to South Padre Island which is different from Mustang Island where Port Aransas is located

Mustang and Padre Islands used to be separated by an inlet from the Gulf into Corpus Christi Bay

Padre Island is cut by the Mansfield Cut/Channel allowing mariners passage from the Gulf of Mexico into Port Mansfield, Texas

i can't find reference to "San Padre" w/ my feeble researching techniques

MANY THANKS

don't forget we expect LOTSA PICS

sw

[RJ Howell]

help me understand

¿ where did you come up w/ the term/name "San Padre" ?

we have always called it Padre Island stretching from Corpus Christi to South Padre Island which is different from Mustang Island where Port Aransas is located

Mustang and Padre Islands used to be separated by an inlet from the Gulf into Corpus Christi Bay

Padre Island is cut by the Mansfield Cut/Channel allowing mariners passage from the Gulf of Mexico into Port Mansfield, Texas

i can't find reference to "San Padre" w/ my feeble researching techniques

MANY THANKS

don't forget we expect LOTSA PICS

sw

Probably just me, but I do believe I picked it up from another. I shall state it as Padre Island from here on. Thank you for bringing it to my attention!

I'm getting many mixed reactions on South Padre and am finding so far those that praise the area are mostly folks staying in Hotels.. just what I'm reading/hearing. I do believe North Padre is more to our style of camping. I do like the Adolph Thomae Jr County Park mentioned and will probably overnight there before turning away from the Gulf. Still haven't learned if TX requires a Salt water license to surf cast. Hoping not.

This new re-route absorbs another day in Texas, but I have a few built in to the itinerary for just this, change ups!

[swoody126]

ANSWERS IN ALL CAPS

Probably just me, but I do believe I picked it up from another. I shall state it as Padre Island from here on. Thank you for bringing it to my attention!

I WAS JUST WONDERING IF I HAD MISSED SOMETHING IN MY GROWNIG UP DOWN THERE ;-)

I'm getting many mixed reactions on South Padre and am finding so far those that praise the area are mostly folks staying in Hotels.. just what I'm reading/hearing.

IMHO YOUR SURMISE IS CORRECT

THE CAMPGROUND AT THE SOUTH END OF TOWN DOWN THERE IS PRIMARILY OCCUPIED BY LIKE MINDED SOULS

AND ITSANOTHER 1/2+ DAY'S DRIVE JUST GETTING THERE

I do believe North Padre is more to our style of camping. I do like the Adolph Thomae Jr County Park mentioned and will probably overnight there before turning away from the Gulf.

BETTER CHECK FOR AVAILABIITY AT THIS TIME OF YEAR

SOUTH TEXAS CG'S ARE OFTEN FULL OF SNOWBIRDS AND UNDERSTANDABLY SEW (ALL GG'S SOUTH OF SAN ANTONIO)

Still haven't learned if TX requires a Salt water license to surf cast. Hoping not.

YES. SALTWATER LICENSE IS REQUIRED BUTT SEW IS AN OUT OF STATE LICENSE

WE HEARD "NO NEW TAXES" IN A FEW PAST CAMPAIGNS AND THEY DID HONOR THAT PROMISE

BUTT THE NEW "FEES" ARE KILLING ALL OF US

This new re-route absorbs another day in Texas, but I have a few built in to the itinerary for just this, change ups!

BON CHANCE

sw

[RJ Howell]

Warning was if going into Big Bend, gas up in Marathon. I see a possible route (thanks to all the suggestions) I'd like to try and get Big Bend in the picture even if only a drive through. Thinking south out of Marathon to Big Bend NP, over to Big Bend Ranch SP and run Rt67 up to Marfa and the wayside for the night (and the lights, how cool).

That run is maxing my fuel... Presidio, Lajitas and Terlingua all look like they should have gas.. Yes???

[swoody126]

Warning was if going into Big Bend, gas up in Marathon. I see a possible route (thanks to all the suggestions) I'd like to try and get Big Bend in the picture even if only a drive through. Thinking south out of Marathon to Big Bend NP, over to Big Bend Ranch SP and run Rt67 up to Marfa and the wayside for the night (and the lights, how cool).

That run is maxing my fuel... Presidio, Lajitas and Terlingua all look like they should have gas.. Yes???
...

yes

there is fuel in Study Butte after you leave the Park where you turn left off 118 onto 170 > Terlingua > Lajitas

do not count on time/mileage on giggle maps or mapquest... it takes longer to get from Marathon to Study Butte than "they say" under perfect conditions specially if you stop to read the hysterical markers a/o look at any of the sights

on 118 as your route indicates you won't really see or experience the Park

it will just be a slower traverse of the area seeing much the same as you would have already seen outside the Park

if you wont have the time to invest in the Park to take some of the side roads to see/experience what the park offers you can save yourselves a lot of time and fuel by just staying on US 90 to Marfa

if you only have time for one side trip i might suggest driving down to Castillon where the Rio Grande comes out of Santa Elena Canyon

the canyon walls are over 1000' high at the point you can see and actually walk into on a short trail

over the years(since the mid 1970's) i've been out there many times and done the Park in many ways from many angles and i am always saddened when folks finally get there and don't take some time to experience at least some of it's majesty

again... BON CHANCE

sw