Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

General Discussion about almost anything Teardrop or camping related

Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby Patrick Star » Fri Sep 14, 2018 10:53 am

Hi, my plans for my Caveman build calls for 1.5x.75 wall studs and framing... does this seem a little thin? I know the plans were drawn to save weight, but would like something a little stronger, as where I camp routinely sees 25-35 mph winds (beach camping)

I was considering using 2x4's in the wall instead of 1x2's

I basically need to find strength.

Building my camper in a 1992 Coleman Chesapeake pop up trailer. 300 bucks so far. And that includes the Tax, Tag, and title!!! So excited

Harbor Freight has saw horses on sale and picking some up today

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
User avatar
Patrick Star
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:57 pm

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby Ottsville » Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:03 am

Let's apply a little critical thinking here... if you are using plans that someone designed for pulling down the road...don't you think the wind load on the road is probably more than the winds you will get while parked?
Ottsville
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 176
Images: 1
Joined: Tue May 08, 2018 2:19 am

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby lfhoward » Fri Sep 14, 2018 11:09 am

You’ll most likely be fine with 1x2’s. If you’re worried about strength then go up to 1x3’s for major support structures, and 2x2’s for roof crossbeams. 2x4’s is going to be way heavy for very little gain. You’d be amazed how strong the structure is once the plywood walls are glued and screwed to the 1x’s. It’s not going to move.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
User avatar
lfhoward
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 489
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:10 pm
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby KTM_Guy » Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:22 pm

1X2’s are probably fine. The hard part is to find good ones. The ones at Home Depot and Lowes will be junk. Buy 1X6 or 1X8 and rip them down. Or find a source for Popular, or another hard wood. You can buy #1 common red oak or even #2 common at reasonable prices.
User avatar
KTM_Guy
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 319
Images: 137
Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:50 am
Location: Mesa, AZ near Usery
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby Patrick Star » Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:58 pm

I actually Laughed out Loud when I forgot the whole wind going down the road, that's great to know.


Thanks for the advice on upscaling my build!! I think the 2x2 and the 1x3 will be my choice.

I have a roof top AC I'll be setting on there too, I'll start a build thread once I clean out my work space

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
User avatar
Patrick Star
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:57 pm
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby slowcowboy » Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:46 pm

I over kill build, but my old 4 wide is on its 10th year..i use half inch ply with 2 by fours ripped in the walls fill it in with 2 inch foam insulation than trailer house paneling masonite on the inside and car carpet over that to kill conservation drips...i prefer a very light frame and tank wood construction on the cabin , much like the old mosquito britsh bomber in world war 2.or a wooden wander...so yes my 4 wide has 2 by 10s in it for shielfs and cabnets..but my trailer frames a cheap harbor freight..my new one on the kampmaster is a old say 1950s home built like frame under a old standy or Scotty...so again light metal frame Sherman tank wood cabine structure..slow.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
User avatar
slowcowboy
7000 Club
7000 Club
 
Posts: 7090
Images: 166
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:25 am
Location: pavillion, wyoming.
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby QueticoBill » Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:27 pm

The wall strength comes from the skins, not the framimg.
QB
A tear with no name: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67624
QueticoBill
Silver Donating Member
 
Posts: 621
Images: 22
Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 7:22 am
Location: Oak Park Illinois
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby lfhoward » Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:39 pm

KTM_Guy wrote:1X2’s are probably fine. The hard part is to find good ones. The ones at Home Depot and Lowes will be junk. Buy 1X6 or 1X8 and rip them down. Or find a source for Popular, or another hard wood. You can buy #1 common red oak or even #2 common at reasonable prices.

I paid extra to get the “select” pine for my 1x2’s & 3’s at HD. I was choosy and made sure they were straight and the grain was nice as I took them off the rack. They are 2x-3x as expensive as the “common board” pine but it’s worth it for durability. The common stuff was lighter (wider grain), had knots and was twisty, whereas the select was heavier, straighter, better wood. The select also held together nicely when drilled for pocket holes.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
User avatar
lfhoward
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 489
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:10 pm
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby tony.latham » Fri Sep 14, 2018 7:31 pm

I used 1-inch pine with my first teardrop. I found it labor intensive. I much prefer 3/4" plywood. Much quicker with more flexibility to reinforce where needed or lighten up where possible.

Image

Image

I can gang-cut two plywood frames and be ready for the next step in a couple of hours.

Image

Image

:thumbsup:

Tony
Image
User avatar
tony.latham
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 2874
Images: 17
Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:03 pm
Location: Middle of Idaho on the edge of nowhere
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby lfhoward » Fri Sep 14, 2018 7:50 pm

Very good point, Tony. My trailer is boxy and only has 90° or 45° angles on it. The stick frame would be a pain to build for a curved teardrop profile.
My off-road camper build on an M116A3 military chassis:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=62581
Tow vehicle: 2008 Jeep Liberty with a 4 inch lift.
User avatar
lfhoward
The 300 Club
 
Posts: 489
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:10 pm
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby noseoil » Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:05 am

The 3/4" skeletonized plywood wall is what I did as well & it's fine. I cut out a bit more of the wood than Tony did, but it's still plenty strong & has stood up to everything we have done so far. We used 1/8" baltic birch inner & outer walls, with 3/4" foam insulation in the voids. As was mentioned, the skins are what really strengthen this type of build. The 3/4" material serves to keep the skins separated so when they're glued in place, it acts like a "trussed" type of structure & the layers of skin & frame become a solid panel which is light & very strong.

Don't use 2x4's unless you have a semi truck for a tow vehicle, it's a waste of material, weight, time & money!

137818
Build log: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=60248
The time you spend planning is more important than the time you spend building.........

137905
User avatar
noseoil
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1365
Images: 103
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2014 8:46 am
Location: Tucson
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby GPW » Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:55 am

Airplane style framing . Light, Strong … And airplanes fly at hundreds of MPH … ;)


Skinned Beaded styrofoam walls @ 3.5” Thick with 18oz. outer Canvas skin and chipboard inner skin … 5 years and counting now , living outside all the time in our Rainy weather … :thumbsup:
Attachments
DSCF0009.JPG
DSCF0009.JPG (238.74 KiB) Viewed 457 times
DSCF0038.JPG
DSCF0038.JPG (120.68 KiB) Viewed 457 times
There’s no place like Foam !
User avatar
GPW
Gold Donating Member
 
Posts: 13863
Images: 545
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:58 pm
Location: New Orleans
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby Patrick Star » Tue Oct 02, 2018 11:34 pm

I totally understand it now.. Thank you for your patience. On the roof I'll use the 2x2's for the spars under the roof top AC, it's pretty heavy. and the framing under it 1x3, hardwood. This camper will literally be going down 100s of miles of beach on the Natl Seashore, but the torsion box strength is clear
User avatar
Patrick Star
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 14
Joined: Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:57 pm
Top

Re: Wall Framing Size Questions for Strength

Postby Tigris99 » Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:12 pm

1x2 is more than enough since your skinning the inside and outside with some form of plywood. My previous build I filled all the wall spaces with XPS foam, only had 3/16 luan skin. Held up doing 80mph down the highway and didnt phase it.

Roof I used same except 2x2 spares, only because we get nasty storms that knock down limbs all the time. Camper took a few limp hits over the year, dealt with gusts of 70mph from storms here and 0 issues.

Your WAY over thinking this. Beach winds are nothing. Dont go crazy with wood, just use XPS foam so you stay light but creates a solid sandwiched wall. My previous build I never had a single concern with and this build I know more than during that build so I'll be lighter and as strong if not stronger.

Just a heads up, do some research on how planes are built, especially ones of old. Those dealt with far more tha your camper will ever deal with short of a hurricane and they were built scaringly flimsy

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Tigris99
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 252
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 4:42 pm
Top


Return to General Discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests