Re: New TTT - The Boxcar - New Sliding Bed

[bdosborn]

I've been working on the cabinet doors; rounding the corners, gluing and sanding (I hate sanding). I've got most of the doors done; now on to staining. I got the idea for staining just the frame from Doug Hodder and I have to say it sure adds a lot more work. But I think it looks great. Thanks Doug!

Pre-stain, notice I've already stained the inside of the stile and rails. I'm using minwax "Red Oak" stain:



while the stain is still wet:



All stained, just need to sand a few little goofs off the birch inserts:



Bruce
P.S. I still haven't made up my mind about the filon glue. Its been too cold to think about gluing anyways.

[Juneaudave]

Those are really going to look sharp Bruce!!!! Nice Work!!!!

[bdosborn]

Thanks!
Bruce

[Senior Ninja]

That is positively a work of art deserving a place in a museum!
Great job!
Steve

[bdosborn]

Its been slow going; I've been finishing the drawer fronts and cabinet doors for the front cabinets. Here's the frame for the front cabinets, glued and sanded.



Most of the cabinet doors (the four for the front are still drying) and drawer fronts. The drawer front have mitered corners:


Jean laughed when she saw this drawer front but I think its cool. I found a branding iron on eBay of our last name:



Next time I think of making cabinet doors, they'll have mitered corners. A dado blade on the table saw and mitered corners is a much easier way to make doors. The drawer fronts took about a quarter of the time the cabinet doors did.

I'm taking a class that has been cutting into my trailer time. Boy, I forgot how much I hate taking tests!

Bruce

[Classic Finn]

Awesome work. Looks very nice. I sure hope ours turn out as good as yours do.

Classic Finn

[bdosborn]

I've made some progresse, but not as much as I hoped - work stuff has been getting in the way! I finished a 10 week class on GLP/ GMP certification, I'm LEED accredited and I just finished a 3 day NFPA 101 class. But I've got some pictures!

I framed in the wheel openings:



Now I can see the fancy wheels:



I was going to start skinning the exterior but it needs to be 65F for the contact cement to work properly so I moved on to applying the finish to the cabinet doors:



Boy I *LOVE* the HVLP sprayer from HF tools. It was really easy to set up and the finish comes out great. I'm using a water soluble poly so the clean up is even easy. Its the best tool since the pocket jig.



Bruce

[aggie79]

Boy I *LOVE* the HVLP sprayer from HF tools. It was really easy to set up and the finish comes out great. I'm using a water soluble poly so the clean up is even easy. Its the best tool since the pocket jig.

Very nice Bruce. I really like the cabinet doors (and the rest of your build.)

Can you say what type of compressor you are using for the HF HLVP gun?

Thanks, Tom

[Mighty Mouse]

Bruce I have a couple of questions about the Filon if I may. What type of adhesive did you decide to use? (Sory if you awnsered already and I didn't read it right.) Are you going to roll it or spray and are you going to bag it still like you did the wall framing? And lastly where did you buy it and are they easy to work with? I know a lot of questions from a noob but I am thinking of redoing my roof and hatch with filon, hate the paint and can't find Al in 5' around here. Thanks for building such an informative thread

Bud

[bdosborn]

Can you say what type of compressor you are using for the HF HLVP gun?

Tom,

Nothing special, its a 120V oiless, 11.9 CFM with a 20 gallon tank. I have the pressure turned down to 60psi at the compressor and 40psi at the sprayer. I can spray a single coat of Minwax Polycrylic on 4 cabinet doors without the compressor kicking in so the sprayer doesn't use much air. I'm not thinning the Polycrylic, I just dump it in and spray. I do have to sand between coats to knock the rough spots down. Three coats is about right, four coats is starting to look a little thick, depending on how thick I spray each coat. I'm spraying the cabinets while they're laying flat on the bench and I haven't had a drip yet. I might have more trouble if I was spraying them with the face perpendicular to the ground.

Bruce

[bdosborn]

What type of adhesive did you decide to use? (Sory if you awnsered already and I didn't read it right.) Are you going to roll it or spray and are you going to bag it still like you did the wall framing? And lastly where did you buy it and are they easy to work with?
Bud

Bud,

After consulting with Len, I've decided to go with contact cement again. I used it on the teardrop and it oilcans on the sides. But, I never rolled it after I applied the skin. After reading the instructions, you're supposed to roll it with at least 45 psi of pressure. So I got a j roller and I'll roll the crap out of it this time. (finally, the beer belly pays off! ) I also applied the skin when it was around 55F, the instructions says it has to be 65 for 72 hours after applying. I don't think bagging it will help as the most pressure you could ever get is around 11 psi at this altitude.

I got my Filon for the teardrop from http://www.themetalcompany.com/ . (I got the Filon for the Boxcar from Glenn Erickson about a year ago. It was the worst buying experience ever and he flat stole the money of the last guy who sent him a check.). The metal company guys were pretty easy to work with, I told them how much I needed and they rolled it out and cut it. They are local to me in Denver.

Bruce

[Mighty Mouse]

Bruce
Thanks for the information. I looked at the metal shops web site and see a couple of good options for when I get the funds to do this. Looks like they will ship too so no need to have a trip to Denver or have friends pony express it when they come to KC. Your build is looking great.

Bud

[bdosborn]

Arrgghhh, 4 straight weekends of bad weather. I won't be skinning this weekend as its too cold. I'm about done with the finish work though so here are a few pictures of the cabinets and drawers again...







Bruce

[wlivesey]

Hey Bruce, What size box did you use for your frame? It looks like 2x3 with 2x2 for the cross members and wings. How thick did you go?

Look'n good!!!

Thanks! Bill

[bdosborn]

Bill,
I used 14G for the frame (2x3 and 2x2s) as that was the thinnest I could get around here. The tongue is 1/8" (11G?). Been so long now I couldn't remember what I used and had to look at an old thread



There's definitely more flex than I expected standing on the rear bumper but I'm hoping the walls will stiffen everything up.
Bruce