Steve F: door seals

[R Keller]

Steve,

I checked out your door framing on your website http://www.steve-frederick.com/body3. Looking great!

I'm doing something similar with my doors. Like yours, mine have all rounded corners (I was taken with the look of the Camp-Inn's). That, of course, makes sealing the door a bit more difficult than standard teardrop procedure. It precludes the use of T-molding around the door itself (unless is the leg is trimmed back at the radius just before the hinge, if that makes any sense).

My solution was to use T-molding around the inside of the body door frame as a door stop/sealing surface and mount the weatherstripping to that. Of course, the door will protude slightly from the side using that method, depending on much the weatherseal compresses. With your method, you get a nice flush door. Maybe I should add a spacer around the inside of the door frame like you did (pattern router bits are great!).

When you say the inside lip is 1" smaller than the door opening, is that on each side or total (1/2" each side). How did you cut (router) that piece? And will the weatherstrip cover that edge or will it just seal up against the door?


Rik

[Steve Frederick]

Rik, The spacer is 1" wide all around. The trim/stop is 2" wide all around, with the inner edge 1" into the door opening. I cut everything from the pattern that I first made to cut the sides with, just cut it up as I went along. It makes layout very easy! I used the router when ever possible, to cut/trim pieces.
Your idea to place a spacer under the t-moldng, sounds like a winner! The door would fit flush that way.

[BufordT]

Steve,

Thanks for allowing us to see your web site. I've got to spend more time on that site. Your doing a great job. Keep the pic's updating. Looking good.

BufordT