But a hole in the wall, right?Chasein70 wrote:You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.
redbicycle wrote:I have a climaterite and I am fighting with it myself right now. The first attempt I did was to try and put my intake and return (Air conditioned/inside air) through my headboard. The first time I turned it on I knew it needed immediately to be moved. I didn't notice until the trailer was enclosed completely and I was working with the very small interior space how much noise the vent itself makes. The AC pushing so much air through the small vent created a very noisy blower sound. I knew I couldn't sleep with that.
I moved it to the back of my trailer and I had the return air exit the trailer on the side and the intake entered the trailer from the back into a storage compartment. I put 3 3" vents in the compartment. The goal here was the storage compartment would act like a duct and allow the air to expand into it and reduce the noise. This worked great for noise but I kept getting E3 error codes. E3 = coil freezing. My next step was to raise the Climateright off the ground to reduce some of the hose length and number of bends. I still was getting E3 error codes.
My last change was to move the ducts again. I used the existing intake to be the new return air. Now the air is being pulled from the trailer into the storage compartment through the 3" vents and out the 3" hose. I put a new intake about 6" above the existing hose for my new conditioned air into the trailer. I am now back to having the air intake be a single 3" vent that is again noisy but it is at the back of the trailer instead of directly over my head. I have tested it a few times but I have not taken it camping yet to see if this will throw E3 error codes. I also insulated my hoses with foam insulation hoping that will help.
I haven't solved my problem yet, nor confirmed that maybe I have a faulty unit. Additionally I replaced the white hoses with standard RV sewer hoses. The white hoses are 3.3" and the RV sewer hoses are 3" so there is some potential air flow restrictions that I have caused because of this. I have seen RV hoses used before so I am not the pioneer of that idea. My current setup has a straight 24" hose for the conditioned air and a straight 24" hose for the return air. The return air has a slight bend in it because it rises about 4" across the distance.
Hopefully your plan works straight away. My next project is to fill/epoxy and paint three extra holes I have in my trailer now. I hope your plan works as intended. I like the idea you are putting together. BTW be sure to read about how "AUTO" mode works. It didn't work the way I thought it would and it will save you some time figuring out why it isn't working as you may think it should.
Atomic77 wrote:But a hole in the wall, right?Chasein70 wrote:You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.
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Mine is on the floor. Works just fineChasein70 wrote:Atomic77 wrote:But a hole in the wall, right?Chasein70 wrote:You should have used a through the wall AC. Everything is in the rear. No ducting, no fans or holes in the floor.
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Yes, a hole in the wall. On my trailer I have a door the opens up on a gas piston. The AC is up high inside a cabinet. I see way to many people have them on the floor which doesn't work. It's 50 on the floor and 90 in your face. Cold air sinks, it doesn't rise.
Chasein70 wrote:... The AC is up high inside a cabinet. I see way too many people have them on the floor which doesn't work. It's 50 on the floor and 90 in your face. Cold air sinks, it doesn't rise.
Atomic77 wrote:Mine is on the floor. Works just fine
Hm. That's strange. Used it all last summer and had outdoor temps over 90° in July. Maybe I just imagined it was comfortable and cool inside!Chasein70 wrote:Atomic77 wrote:Mine is on the floor. Works just fine
I doubt that!!!! That defies the laws of physics. Cold air does NOT rise. I've tried putting an AC on the floor and it does not work.
Atomic77 wrote:I have a 5000 btu Frigidaire unit that works great. My camper is 120 sq ft and roughly 600 cu ft. July 4th weekend it was high 90's for 4 straight days. It kept the coach between 70-75°. Mine is built in a cabinet, with the rear exhaust ducted into the floor. Out of sight and out of mind with no obvious exterior vents, etc.
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tony.latham wrote:
Up here at 45º north, we dither on where to put a heater. I'm pleased that an air conditioner isn't needed in the Rockies.
Tony
Classic mission creep!
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