It's Cold!

[Dahlia47]

Especially in Texas!!!

My TT is made out of wood. Not very easy to keep warm. The warmth goes right through the walls and just as easily exchanges the cold from the outside. What is good way to insulate a wood TT?

[booyah]

So i fyou dont experience much cold, carpet attached to the walls is better than nothing.

My build was made for Michigan, where cold is pretty normal (yesterday started off at 8F, today is a balmy 27f)
As such I built it with R5 foamboard between two layers of wood. Into the 40s outside it needs no internal hear, but below that I run a small handy heater (450w) that is enough to keep it 70 inside when its 20 outside.

[troubleScottie]

Assuming it is already constructed, it is difficult to add insulation into walls. If this is just a plywood wall, then no space.

Putting some sort of insulating material inside would help. The question then becomes how much/how thick and how attractive.

Reflectix foil barrier could be used -- but you are living in a aluminum cocoon.
There are fiber equivalents -- less shiny, but still obtrusive.
Carpet placed on walls will take some of the edge off. At least it might feel warmer.


As stated in other response(s), a heater might work. You are heating a small space. In addition, you most likely do not need to get the temperature to 75F or keep it there.

Options include:
small AC heater eg ceramic, quartz, oil based ( obviously need AC shore or running generator )
propane, diesel or gasoline heaters which can be run from batteries (fan, ignition, temp control) eg Espar, Propex, Webasto or Chinese equivalents. Requires fuel and cutting holes.
propane heater like Mr Heater Buddy run for a while to heat the interior and then turned off
more bodies/barn effect. Animals give off heat. It does warm the space around them. Add others, dogs.


Then the simpler is just assume you are 4 season camping in a tent -- warmer sleeping bag(s)/covers/quilts, good/better mattress, wear stocking cap and more clothes.

[working on it]

Assuming it is already constructed, it is difficult to add insulation into walls. If this is just a plywood wall, then no space.

Putting some sort of insulating material inside would help. The question then becomes how much/how thick and how attractive.

Reflectix foil barrier could be used -- but you are living in a aluminum cocoon.
There are fiber equivalents -- less shiny, but still obtrusive.
Carpet placed on walls will take some of the edge off. At least it might feel warmer.


As stated in other response(s), a heater might work. You are heating a small space. In addition, you most likely do not need to get the temperature to 75F or keep it there.

Options include:
small AC heater eg ceramic, quartz, oil based ( obviously need AC shore or running generator )
propane, diesel or gasoline heaters which can be run from batteries (fan, ignition, temp control) eg Espar, Propex, Webasto or Chinese equivalents. Requires fuel and cutting holes.
propane heater like Mr Heater Buddy run for a while to heat the interior and then turned off
more bodies/barn effect. Animals give off heat. It does warm the space around them. Add others, dogs.


Then the simpler is just assume you are 4 season camping in a tent -- warmer sleeping bag(s)/covers/quilts, good/better mattress, wear stocking cap and more clothes.

* You've given several good pointers above, troubleScottie. I also live in Texas, and have a totally uninsulated trailer (made of 3/4" plywood), because I thought it really wasn't needed, and have used some of those methods to compensate for that mistake, too.

* I tried adding some denim-mylar insulation, by cutting pieces of it to fit open wall & ceiling areas between fixtures, frames, and fittings, and was going to just have the metallic mylar facing inward, but my test area looked horrible, so I didn't go through with it. Instead, I used two rectangular door mats, screwed to the walls (so they would insulate me from contact with cold walls in my narrow 46.5" wide cabin). Other uninsulated areas don't need it, with open sidewall vents (or opened awning windows) in conjunction with 1-2 small (200 watt) Lasko My Heat heaters, which eliminate interior condensation entirely. In summer heat, the condensation occurs on the exterior, which doesn't affect the cabin.

denim-mylar insulation.JPG (47.4 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

door mat for cabin walls.JPG (51.73 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

Lasko My Heat 200 watt ceramic.JPG (44.07 KiB) Viewed 2030 times

* I use two different temperature-rated Coleman sleeping bags, summer-weight (>50 degrees F) or winter-weight (>20 degrees F), atop my folding 4" foam mattress, depending on the season. I used to use sheets, quilts, comforters atop 8" of mattresses, but it was problematic to change the linens! These features have worked well for my camping so far, in temperatures ranging from 35 degrees F, to 110 degrees F (made possible with good air-conditioning at night).

[Modstock]

Um, a better sleeping bag. Oh and go to bed warm. If ya gotta jump in your rig for a bit to get warm makes a huge difference.
Carpet helps but not much.

Im using a KOA -5 degree bag (,no carpet on 3/4" walls) .
Also a heater buddy that I can run for about 20 mins, till the ceiling gets hot, windows cracked an inch, roof vent closed with foam insert.
Once im asleep ,Im usually good till morning.

Actually this winter im gonna do a YouTube video on winter camping.
The main key is go to bed warm even if it just got dark.
You can kinda see my set up here.
https://youtu.be/HKBNfa7ngAg

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk

[bobhenry]

I wrapped and back taped a heavy upholstery type material over 1" foam board after it was cut to fit snug trapped between the floor and the ceiling A little window trim helps to keep it in place.




As to the floor fit 1" closed cell foam and a plywood top layer you won't miss an inch and a half of height. When I built rip van winkle I made a mono frame of rabbeted 2x4 and set in a bottom and a top later of 3/4 OSB. Trapped in between was 2 layers of closed cell foam making a very strong torsion box sandwich. The black is a fence post treatment to protect the wood.

[aggie79]

Exercise tiles:



I used these on the interior side of the floor of my teardrop but they could be adhered to walls.

[eLink]

The walls of my teardrop will be 3/4" birch, which is intended to be seen and appreciated. So I was thinking, if I really needed it, of hanging moving blankets to the walls during more extreme weather conditions. They would be cut to fit and attached with screw-in snap fasteners along the edges.

MovingBlanket.jpg (64.04 KiB) Viewed 1928 times

snapFastener.jpg (11.36 KiB) Viewed 1928 times

Or maybe this insulated blanket...

6-x-8-insulated-blanket.png (42.39 KiB) Viewed 1923 times

[tony.latham]

Cold... Especially in Texas!!!

In Texas? Really?



I guess cold is cold no matter where you're shivering.

Friz did a superb job (as usual) with his marvelous build:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67288&start=270



Tony

[Dahlia47]

It got down to 27*! I'm from the Rocky Mountain area, but that was a while ago. I've become a South Texas Sissy! I don't mind sleeping in a tent in below freezing. My husband and kids do. When I take them to the cabin, no running water, electric, phone...outhouse! HAHA! They crack me up. But I am getting a bit sensitive to the cold.

I did make a cover for the back window today with the reflectix. We will see how it goes on our next outing. Our daughter told me there was quite a bit of cold coming through the window. When we went to the beach, the heat came through the window as well. Then in one place, an annoying light! So this little window cover will have multiple uses. But the walls I think are 1/2 inch thick. I looked at the blankets that were mentioned, those just may help. We have an electric heater and an oil heater. But the walls are just so thin.

Just out of curiosity? Has anyone tried out one of those tiny wood stoves? I would not ever put one in my TT, its made out of wood. But they seem pretty cool!

[Tomterrific]

Electric blanket, if you have an electric site. If it is as cold enough for heat most, if not all, campgrounds will have a nice electric site.

No electric site? Blankets and sleeping bags. It is just like tent camping with a really good tent. I have thrown my jacket and pants over my covers for just a bit more insulation.

I read where a tnttt inmate used blankets on the walls. Now that is smart.

We use a pop-up canopy with tarps hung from the sides to hang out at night. Two electric heaters pointed at Loretta and myself do a good job of keeping us comfortable before bedtime. I have just picked up a Coleman fuel catalytic heater for those non electric sites but have not fired it up as yet. Absolutely no burning inside the camper!

Tt

[booyah]

So I just got back from a short deer camp. One seven pointer for my friend!
Overnight it got down to about 21F, and I was uncomfortably warm in my insulated tear with the little 400w heater. I ended up having to turn it down and ditch my blanket to keep cool.



The other guys all slept in their cars with space heaters and electric blankets. I was the coziest one of us I suspect.

[lfhoward]

I’m curious what strategy works best to keep warm...

- Ceiling vent cracked open a bit, windows closed all the way
- Ceiling vent closed, window (or both windows) cracked open a bit
- Ceiling vent cracked open a bit, one window cracked open slightly

The idea is to conserve heat, while allowing for fresh air (a fully closed up camper can kill you). Also, condensation can be an issue in the cold.

Which strategy do you employ? I know if I am plugged in at an RV park and can run my baseboard heater, I keep both the ceiling vent and a window slightly cracked open and it’s still nice and toasty. But I haven’t figured out what works best while boondocking.

[booyah]

I’m curious what strategy works best to keep warm...

- Ceiling vent cracked open a bit, windows closed all the way
- Ceiling vent closed, window (or both windows) cracked open a bit
- Ceiling vent cracked open a bit, one window cracked open slightly

The idea is to conserve heat, while allowing for fresh air (a fully closed up camper can kill you). Also, condensation can be an issue in the cold.

Which strategy do you employ? I know if I am plugged in at an RV park and can run my baseboard heater, I keep both the ceiling vent and a window slightly cracked open and it’s still nice and toasty. But I haven’t figured out what works best while boondocking.

With shore power I run both windows very slightly cracked, and a fleece blanket infront of each for solo occupant.
If theres more than one I will do a window and the ceiling vent very slightly cracked. Heat rises, you lose a lot more heat from the open vent than a window, but that also gives you better airflow.

[low277]

Any type of insulation will help, as will hanging a blanket as a wall to make the space you are sleeping in smaller. Having something to sleep on that will insulate you from below is important as is your blankets or sleeping bag. Last winter as a experiment I slept in the box of my full size pickup with a fiberglass shell on it. It was in my driveway about 50 feet from the house in case it became unbearable. I put a sheet of 1 inch blue foam in the box and rolled my 0 degree sleeping bag on top of it. It is not a mummy bag but a large rectangular bag 39" x 90". I let the bag soak in the outside temp for an hour before crawling in. I left the back door of the shell wide open. I did wear a cheap pair of sweet pants and shirt with smart wool socks and a watchman's cap. I live in NW Minnesota. Temperature was about -10f when I climbed in at 9pm and about -19f when I crawled out at about 7am. 1st 15 minutes was chilly but after that it wasn't bad. I did get a lot of condensation in my mustache and anything I breathed on. Resist the urge to put your head inside the bag or under the blankets, don't want the water vapor inside.

I am actually looking forward to trying it again on a colder night. I want to try it at -35f or colder. Pretty safe to practice in the driveway at home! Then possibly at the lake ice fishing later.