Starting Design-Asking for Trailer Review

[Capebuild]

Thank you all very much for your insights and suggestions. Lots to digest.
Using a donut tire (smaller-thinner)) never occurred to me. I'm thinking I might move that to the front of the chassis.
And yes, I agree the front end is looking " a bit busy" once the bikes are mounted in place.... I'll look into the different jack set up mentioned by a few.

I'll post some updates when they occur.

two questions:
About mounting the Fantastic Fan unit. How does that get mounted on a curved roof when the flange on the fan is flat? any suggestions?

Also.... can my axle positioned be confirmed I have that correct (following the 60/40 rule). I'm not sure where to start the measurement from (the front of cabin profile
or front of the trailer frame. Or front of what would be the tongue box? In the attached illustration I used the front of the cabin to the rear of the cabin.

Thanks again.

John

[halfdome, Danny]

Most make a 14” flat area at the top of the profile for mounting the Fantastic Fan which is about 14” square. Danny

[Capebuild]

Tony, thanks for the info on the swivel jack and that stubby connector that gets welded to the frame. I just looked that up that set up on Etrailer. I suppose you could even
remove the jack when traveling. And I like the idea of welding one of those mounts on each side behind the fenders for lifting up to change a flat.

Thanks Danny. The photo you posted earlier of your spare location. How far do you figure your spare is from the ground, how much clearance?

I'm also reconsidering where the propane tank is currently placed. It seems a lot of tanks on other's trailers are not visible. Are they hidden away some where from sight?

Thanks
John

[PCO6]

... I'm also reconsidering where the propane tank is currently placed. It seems a lot of tanks on other's trailers are not visible. Are they hidden away some where from sight?

Thanks
John

Depending on the width of your trailer vs. the width of your box, you could go to a couple of 5 lb. cylinders and mount one on each end. We have a 5' wide trailer with 3' box that's about 1' deep and 1' high. The smaller cylinders fit nicely on the ends. We generally use the right side tank for cooking and the left side tank for the furnace and for the water heater. Everyone's needs are a bit different but we've never come close to running out when we're out for a week at a time. I also have a 5 lb. tank on the back of my Jeep. It's more for short non-trailer trips but is there if we need it on 1+ week trips, and we haven't ... yet.

[PCO6]

Delete ... double post. oops.

[tony.latham]

I'm also reconsidering where the propane tank is currently placed.

Thats's an 11-pounder. A 5-pounder would be fine, but we've got the magic of a Propex heater.

Tony

[Capebuild]

Thanks, Tony. Attached is new design for tank placement. In your photo looks like you're using one of those "PowerTank" propane cylinder holders. I was just looking at them. They look sturdy.
You'll also notice I switched to the swivel jack set up you had mentioned. I like that.

Are you able to share your opinion on the axle distance / placement I had asked about in a previous post or 2 back (this thread). I just want to try and confirm the distance is correct (regarding the 40/60 rule).

Thanks very much.

John

[PCO6]

For mine I used a welding tank bracket bolted to the box. The tank sits on top of a drive flange with a 3/4" rubber toilet gasket to act as a buffer. The flange is welded to a square tube that goes into a receiver tube so the whole thing can be removed. I made a similar insert for a 10 litre water tank for occasional use. I tend to use the 2 5 lb. tanks most often though.

[halfdome, Danny]

Thanks Danny. The photo you posted earlier of your spare location. How far do you figure your spare is from the ground, how much clearance?
Thanks
John

John, my spare and battery trays are 6" plus from the pavement.
With 15" tires and 16" total rim measurement it worked out just fine when I had a blow out/tire wall separation at 70 mph on I-90.
With the weight of the two 47# batteries right by the axle the teardrop was rock steady during the blow out and me pulling to the side of the road.
The tires were made in CHINA and now I run Made in USA tires.

We have two of those 5# propane bottles and they go in the tongue box, one on each side.
Totally of of sight for any thief to grab.

Danny

[eLink]

About mounting the Fantastic Fan unit. How does that get mounted on a curved roof when the flange on the fan is flat? any suggestions?

I've located mine at the flattest part of the curve. The header-spars are straight pieces of doubled-up 1x2s. I figure the skin will be slightly squashed around the vent, but not enough to cause any ponding.

Notice the slight curve of the wall vs the straight headers.

IMG_0641.jpg (65.96 KiB) Viewed 1592 times

Edit: I did, however, curve the bottom edge of the headers to match the ceiling profile.

[eLink]

I'm thinking Lexan for the windows. However that will be a last resort, as the material has its shortcomings (scratches easily, looses its clarity over time, etc.).. I'd like to just get safety glass for all, but that's most likely not possible with the shapes I'm thinking about. So, still investigating the windows. I will have a "pass through" from galley to inner cabin, just haven't drawn it in yet (thus the window in the galley door). Sourcing glass has been a challenge. At least finding a vendor having some creative shapes. Still looking at vintage vehicles.

For better or worse, I chose acrylic for my skylight and side windows because they are more resistant to scratches and are less expensive than Lexan (I can't remember the negatives at the moment). I am interested to see how you will mount the skylight. I know Vistabule uses a type of TrimLok seal, but I can't seem to find any close-ups or details. Similar European manufacturer, https://tinycamper.eu/gallery has some nice close-up views though.

[Capebuild]

Elink, thanks for your thoughts on the fan.

And also, pointing out the Tiny Camper site. I had not seen them before. They have an interesting "business model" I've also not seen, providing a Do It Yourself build kit. I'll have to study how they do their big picture window which seems pretty similar to what I'm after and what Vistabule does. If I wind up doing it myself (which is probably what's going to happen) I'll use Lexan or some other Polycarb. I'd fear acrylic (plexi) is too brittle and likely to shatter and otherwise break.

edit: I just took a quick detour to your build site, which looks great. I"ll spend more time later looking it over.

[tony.latham]

I just want to try and confirm the distance is correct (regarding the 40/60 rule).

It looks fine. It should be close to the 60/40 on the trailer frame, not the total length of the trailer. Just make sure you plave the axle using actual stubs, not the torsion axle's cross-member.

Tony

[gudmund]

anytime you start mounting 'any' fuel tank of any type (whether propane or gasoline) in the tongue area, I would be checking and than adjusting that tongue length to be long enough so as to keep those 'mounted tanks' from "ever" making contact with the tow vehicle in a 'jack-knife' when backing up (thinking ahead). I have seen damage caused by the mounting of one before to the back of a vehicle and it's mounted tank before, same goes for the mounting of that 'oversized tongue box'. I got to 'watch' that happen right in front of me once - the truck/trailer I came up behind him at a camp ground just as he started to back into a camp-spot - when seeing things were going to hit, I 'baled' out of my vehicle, running up trying to let him know he was about to hit the quarter-panel of his PU(new) with the 'big' mounted tongue box but was to late. (and of course, he than was mad at me for not warning him sooner - I walked away wishing I hadn't even tried........) Safety-wise, I think a propane tank mounted there would probably be ok being they are made so HD but it could = future vehicle body damage - it's those plastic 'roto-molded' gas storage units I have been seeing people mounting to the sides of their tongue boxes these last few years that are making me 'cringe' every time I see them - if there is a 'jack-knife' when backing up, I can 'for-see' a fuel leak and/or "fire" incident....... and yes, I do carry a propane tank on my tongue - but it, along with my tongue box are sized & mounted 'with-in' the 'vee-ed' boundary shape of my tongue = with no over hang and when I did my back-up 'boo-boo' awhile back, making just a bit of contact, it ended up being 'just' a touch between my PU bumper and the tongue frame rail............ it does happen.....

[western traveler]

[/quote]

For better or worse, I chose acrylic for my skylight and side windows because they are more resistant to scratches and are less expensive than Lexan (I can't remember the negatives at the moment). I am interested to see how you will mount the skylight. I know Vistabule uses a type of TrimLok seal, but I can't seem to find any close-ups or details. Similar European manufacturer, https://tinycamper.eu/gallery has some nice close-up views though.[/quote]

It looks like “bus rubber” in the tiny camper skylight. You might try googling it if you haven’t yet. They make a variety of shapes.
Not sure how it would work in your application.