kd8cgo wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sucLm4sv4WA
That video is an example on the light 1,195lb. HF frame. Pretty easily done, I like this guy's idea of putting in a "backbone" from hitch to tail, easy way to add rigidity and strength to these trailers, especially as he mentions, for a rear recovery situation. Pushing the width out can be a downside on the trails too, but it's a compromise for tires usually. If you want to use a standard trailer axle, just make a rectangular box frame that goes from this new backbone out towards the sides - extending out to the width you want for your new spring perch dimension. You could easily use square tube, angle iron, c-channel, or a combination thereof. The size of the rectangle box shaped sub-frame would basically be dictated by the distance of the spring centers you're using on a standard leaf sprung axle and the width of your spring perches on the new axle. The factory "angle iron" that join the front and rear half segments of the trailer should probably be replaced/upgraded/lengthened like shown in that video to distribute the load more effectively, taking load off the original side beams. You'd want a nice long angle iron (or alternatively, outboard mounted box section, c-channel, etc) here to share the load and make a better longitudinal beam structure along each side of the original trailer. The new, bottom mounted rectangular sub frame adds both height and width, and you can also use different height spring hangars for added height as well. When building the sub frame you can also chose taller profile steel separately or the left and right beam sections that the spring hangers mount to for additional height - for instance you can use 2" cross member and "backbone" section sizes, and size up to a 3" or 4" tall channel, angle, square or rectangle box section for your outside beams, adding even more height. Add gussets or diagonal corner bracing to the sub frame in the four corners to take up racking/parallelogram loads, for instance from one wheel getting stuck relative to the other on the trail. This type of design modification still uses the original trailer to carry some load and would probably be quite OK for trails that aren't getting into the gnarly rock crawling category and as long as you keep your loaded weight reasonable.
Height is double edged like width, your trailer will most likely already have more ground clearance than the Jeep as-is or with relative minor changes, and going up also raises the center of gravity, something else to keep in mind.
Pmullen503 wrote:Is getting a new trailer and moving the body to it an option? You could do what you want with it then.
twisted lines wrote:Sounds like # 2 Is in your future
philpom wrote:twisted lines wrote:Sounds like # 2 Is in your future
I'm not gonna say never because.... ya know.... but; I don't see it any time in the near future! On the other hand, #1 gives you so many new ideas, sometimes it's tempting. Almost makes we wanna tell new builders to kind of build up a quick functional camper before they go full Monty on the build. They would learn a ton. Unless like so many of the folks here and you are already a pro, I'm just a really handy guy with a big imagination. Pretty sure when I was 4 I thought I could build a rocket out of cement truck parts
philpom wrote:twisted lines wrote:Sounds like # 2 Is in your future
I'm not gonna say never because.... ya know.... but; I don't see it any time in the near future! On the other hand, #1 gives you so many new ideas, sometimes it's tempting. Almost makes we wanna tell new builders to kind of build up a quick functional camper before they go full Monty on the build. They would learn a ton. Unless like so many of the folks here and you are already a pro, I'm just a really handy guy with a big imagination. Pretty sure when I was 4 I thought I could build a rocket out of cement truck parts
Modstock wrote:Bigger tires and lift on a teardrop isn't necessary. Most places you'll take it will be a mostly smooth gravel road .
Trailers on a 4wd trail is kinda frowned upon. (Hardcore-ish trails)
My old teardrop I upgraded to 5.13/12" tires from the 4.88's. They did well, even aired em down for longer trips.
SW. Idaho runs 13's on his foamy and takes that thing everywhere.
My cargo conversion trailer has been all over utah with stock tires.
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joefriday122 wrote:Modstock wrote:Bigger tires and lift on a teardrop isn't necessary. Most places you'll take it will be a mostly smooth gravel road .
Trailers on a 4wd trail is kinda frowned upon. (Hardcore-ish trails)
My old teardrop I upgraded to 5.13/12" tires from the 4.88's. They did well, even aired em down for longer trips.
SW. Idaho runs 13's on his foamy and takes that thing everywhere.
My cargo conversion trailer has been all over utah with stock tires.
Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk
I am a raw newby looking to build a TD or SD. Your info is very valuable to me. If I understand what you are saying, the use of standard 12" tires on a trailer is not a problem so long as the weight is kept under control -- correct? What about driving on the interstate at 70mph?
I don't expect to ever do any off-roading and look for nothing rougher than a gravel or dirt forest service road. I drive a Tacoma 4x4 SR5. I'm thinking about a Northern Tool 5x8 trailer to build the lightest weight basic camper I can; a sleeping platform with room for dry storage (a couple of coolers and maybe the battery for a solar setup.)
thanks for sharing.
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