Re-skinning an already built wooden TD....

[KCStudly]

For the rub down through the grits for super fine final finish, yes, but for stripping off the existing finish and smoothing out the rough areas that need repair, I don't think it is that big of a deal as long as you are not using very rough grits (80, 36, etc.).

For the work I have been doing on TPCE, like where the maple cabinet rails and stiles meet, I have not seen a big problem when I have "sanded across the lines". Same thing on the softer cedar sub-frames for the floor, doors and bulkhead. I have used 100 grit almost exclusively, but will probably step down to 220 on the hardwood (with the grain as best that I can) before applying the final finish.

Mind you that I have not applied the finish yet, and I am not a finishing expert by any stretch, so factor that in to your decision.

I'm just saying that it doesn't seem to matter what I do, when I use a belt sander on a big wide flat surface I have problems.

[Outbackdave]

Just finished re-skinning my tear. Built it with1/4". Luan and stain and spar varnish. Lasted about 3 year but ended up with some soft spots and leaks. I cut out spots and replaced them with 1/4" again then tar adhesive with 36" tar paper from each side giving a 24" overlap in the center. Tared paper to the paper. Then I tar adhesives strips of aluminum 20" wide front to back with a 12" wide up the center. Silicones the edges and stainless steel screws every 10" . Roof vent also helped secure on the top. Looks pretty good. Hope it lasts for a few years but can see this might just be a 5 year type maintenance.

[Outbackdave]

I did this on the top only. Still woody sides and left the hatch wood.

[Martinjmpr]

We've explored the fiberglass option, and it's still on the table, but we want to look at other things as well.

Sorry for the dumb question, but how does the aluminum skinning process go? Am I right in thinking that you start with a wooden base and then the aluminum sheeting is just glued to the wood? Do you need to allow for expansion and if so, how is that done? Does anyone have any good videos of photos of the process? Liz found a picture of a TD with a diamond-plate metal skin (don't know if it was aluminum or steel) and she really liked it. What are the pros/cons of metal skinning?

This would be for the top only - no matter what we do the sides will stay woody.

[nevadatear]

As for epoxy, that is what we used. I had never done it before, but i think it came out well and it is holding up very well. Steve Fredrick's shop manual was our bible, and he has a very helpful part on fiberglass and epoxy. I did use cloth on all sides and the roof, but i am not sure the sides needed the cloth. I would, if you keep the roof woody, round the edges down considerably, fill with thickened epoxy, then use cloth over the edges to have something to hold more epoxy. I used Raka, and they have an online manual, as does west marine. Varnish is not enough, imo, to protect the wood. Epoxy to protect the wood, then varnish to protect the epoxy. We also keep ours garaged.

[nevadatear]

With as much damage as you have, you may indeed want to consider an aluminum or vinyl top. With moldings to cover the edge. But epoxy the hell out of the edges first!

[H.A.]

Since you seem to be resigned to covering over the varnished wood,
I am a fan of TPO roofing for this sort of thing. Its a smooth surface if thats to your liking, generally only available in white or some light shades of tan & grey. Then just glue down with its suitable adhesive, I prefer its water base acrylic mastic stuff.
Another option might be the vinly stuff thats applied to automobile roofs, But I think TPO would be cheaper, maybe more durable.
Of course some form of trim moulding should be chosen for transition between the roof and wall.
Good luck to you.

[BlackCatRacing]

I am building a teardrop right now and wanted to cover it with something so I could use it this summer. I used a product called Gaco http://www.gacoretail.com I was very impressed with it. The reason I like it so much is because it is fairly inexpensive ($65 a gallon and one gallon did the whole trailer) You can tint it. It is very easy to apply. If it ever fails I will patch it and cover it over with aluminum and it will then act as a nice vapor barrier underneath the aluminum.

Just my thoughts

[mezmo]

Hi BCR,

Others have been, and now I am, curious as to what the surface-
surface texture looks like. Is it smooth ? Does it show brush or
roller marks or their texture? Does it telegraph the surface it is
applied to [We'd need to make sure that that is smooth ?]And what
do you think it will be like as far as keeping it clean or cleaning it goes ?

As you are the first person I've seen, on here, to have used it, we'd
appreciate any thing else you may have to report on it. It sounds like
it could possible be a very reasonable alternative for an exterior skin/
coating.

BTW, The link you have just brings up a logo. I deleted all the subsequent
info after the ".com" on it and was able to get their retail page. Maybe
you could edit the link and do the same for all the inquiring minds out there.

And of course - Do you have any pics of your TD with its new coating ? They
would really be nice to see and helpful.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Irving]

I am interested as well. Did you apply the gaco roof to bare plywood? Or did you put down primer or CPES or something else underneath?

[BlackCatRacing]

Mezmo and Irving,

It was quite easy to apply. For some reason I thought it was two part but it was not. It was $65 a gallon and I think $15 for the tint. The tint comes in a can for 5 gallon pails so I used all of it and made a nice mocha brown instead of using an 1/8th like they said for a cream color. It is a very thick product and hard to stir. If I had it to do over again I would of had the place I bought it shake it up. It has an oder but know more than normal paint. It rolled out very bumpy but lays down very smooth. Get good rollers as mine were cheap and fibers came out and made little balls. you also need to aply two coats and I can see why. Missed a spot after one coat and the second coat next to it is much better. You also need to apply the second coat before the first coat fully cures. Over all very easy to do and very durable. I did seal the plywood with 3 to 4 coats of diluted polyurathane. I think this was good as it filled in the cracks and left the a smooth surface. any voids are supposed to be filled with silicone before applying which i did but should have done more. prep well to what the container says and I think all will go well.

Any more questions feel free to ask. will be cleaning it tomorrow and will let you know how that goes. Would love to upload pictures and will loearn how to some day.

[nhstt]

[quote="Fishingtomatoseed"]We have the same 1/4" exterior grade plywood for the sides and top. The top we covered in abs plastic sheets. Which I would advise not to do because of the expansion and contraction that it does. The plastic shrunk so much this winter that it busted all the caulk seams. The side we painted with the rust-o-leum marine top side paint. The wood is also checking like yours is. Our plan when we can will either be to put aluminum on the sides and roof, or just the roof and do fiberglass on the sides.

I'm doing my build now and was going to use the same Rust-o-leum marine high gloss red over 1/2" birch ply. No garage and it will have a cover but N.H winters. Can you advise? should I seal with spar first,epoxy and is so which brand.?
Karen
Ladybug-out build journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=55602

[Fyddler]

Before making a final decision on Gako roof I would read the post at the end of this thread. Just some good information on what to expect.

viewtopic.php?t=54834

[mezmo]

Here's a direct link to that specific post Fyddler mentioned:
viewtopic.php?p=1010211#p1010211

[nhstt]

I followed the lead. Thanks for the Info. Saved me a possible nightmare.

Karen at the Ladybug-out build journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=55602