Page 2 of 5

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:29 pm
by Scouterjan
I have seen that method used on this forum several times, hopefully someone else will post a link
Jan

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:35 pm
by High Desert
Here is a build done by Woodbutcher last year as an example. The floor extends past the sides of a 48" HF frame, with great results. I also plan on doing something similar on mine, inspired by this build. Mine will also have just a partial width fender...

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=39036

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:11 am
by markhusbands
I'd like about a six inch overhang each side - which doesn't seem like much - but I also want to use a roof top tent, so I'm thinking a sandwich type floor might give me peace of mind without building super thick.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:54 am
by bobhenry
5'7" out to out when finished

Image

Yep its 2 sections of 2 1/2" square tube handrail placed top to top. I tossed the frame and simply used the axle cradle section and the tongue. Bunch of pics way back in my album if they will help.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:00 am
by absolutsnwbrdr
On my second build, I started with a 4x8 HF trailer and built up and out using 2x4's that extend out 6" on each side. Although the 2x4's may seem like overkill, this was for 2 reasons - to get the deck up above the wheels so I didn't have to worry about interior wheel wells, and the weight of my sidewalls is supported at the the ends of the 2x4's using long lag bolts.

Image

Image

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:26 pm
by markhusbands
What about this to save a little width and height at the same time?
wlll and floor 1.jpg
wlll and floor 1.jpg (25.68 KiB) Viewed 7607 times

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 4:20 am
by Photoman33770
Several years back I used a Harbor Freight frame and went WAY beyond and had no problems. I did put the axel under the springs which raised the bed up higher than the tires. In using it a year only a few times did I hit a bounce hard enough to rub the under floor and it was not a problem.
This pic shows how far out.
Image

This is what it ended up.
Image
Image

Looking at the preview the images are cut off. The direct links are

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/01010001.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/04030010.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/04030003.jpg

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:14 pm
by bearfromobx
... And if anybody sees Photoman's feet hanging out from under the Ghost Flyer on the side of the road, he crawled under to change a tire!!! :lol:

Photoman33770 wrote:Several years back I used a Harbor Freight frame and went WAY beyond and had no problems. I did put the axel under the springs which raised the bed up higher than the tires. In using it a year only a few times did I hit a bounce hard enough to rub the under floor and it was not a problem.
This pic shows how far out.
Image

This is what it ended up.
Image
Image

Looking at the preview the images are cut off. The direct links are

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/01010001.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/04030010.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb333/GhostFlyer/04030003.jpg

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:11 pm
by docmark
For those who did side mount, how did you adjust for the bolts sticking out of the sides? I was thinking using a forstner bit on the side touching the rails where the bolt heads are. Then use about 3 round head bolts per side to attach sides also stainless screws into the floor frame. Does this sound ok/strong? BTW benroy style on a redtrailer 5x8

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:09 pm
by dlcunningham
This was a really helpful discussion! I have a new 5'x8' - 1,800lb Northern Tool trailer coming to build an 8' Benroy model. I would like to get 60.5" inside width for a queen bed so I want to maximize my available trailer. Weight won't be an issue and for sure want to make sure the shell won't blow off going down he highway. I want to use a sandwich type wall, i.e 1/2" ply, 3/4" furring to insulate with another 1/8 or 1/4" interior treatment. I plan to epoxy seal the sides for a woody look and probably 2-1/8" laminated skins for the roof wih a gloss white reflecive marine epoxy coating since it's going to be a non-standard width.

Any and all advice is appreciated and thanks again for a great discussion!

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 9:35 pm
by KCStudly
I think you can go thinner on the outer ply, unless you plan on doing serious off road adventuring where extra puncture resistance is required.

It has been said, and I fully agree, "Think airplane, not tank". Lots of small structure and thin plys/skins make for a very strong and light weight structure.

Image
Image

Tanks require big engines and lots of fuel to haul around.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:32 pm
by dlcunningham
I'm familiar with a/c construction. You think 1/4" ply is sturdy enough? It would be made more rigid with 3/4" studs. What's your thoughts on fiberglass over the 1/4" ply?

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:34 pm
by KCStudly
I'm currently building my #1 (TPCE) using a hybrid foamie construction method. My intended use is for two track forest roads and some rough conditions. Not really rock crawling, and I don't expect to be scratching my way through tight brush and branches, but light to moderate off road use. Jarring and bouncing.

My walls are 1-1/2 thk foam and will get 5 mm (about 3/16 thk) ply inner skin adhered to the foam with contact adhesive. There is minimal wood framing in the walls, just around the doors and galley wall edges, and some surface blocking imbedded here and there to screw the cabinets, bulkhead and fixtures into. The outer skin will be a wrap of either canvas and paint, or maybe glass fabric reinforced epoxy (haven't decided yet). No outer plywood. Fully welded box tube framed trailer.

The best advice is to make a small test sample and decided for yourself what method gives you the strength that you think you need. From what I have read, on a traditional built up wall, 1/4 outer is more than plenty. I can't recall ever reading someone say that they wished they had used 1/2 instead of 1/4, but I have read many times where people have said that they wished they had used 1/4 instead of 1/2. If you are going to glass reinforce, 1/4 inch ply must surely be more than adequate.

The strength is in the composition of the whole structure, not any one single piece. Build light and glue everything to each other.

$.02

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:03 pm
by markhusbands
So I have opted for a simple cleat with 3/4 ply side and 3/4 ply floor. Attachment will be alternating straight screws through the wall into the cleat and pocket screw through the wall into the floor - angled, obviously. And copiously glued with Titebond III.

Any red flags?

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:51 pm
by Fyddler
I am building a modified Campster 12 with solid 3/4" walls and 3/4" floor. I want the wall to extend below the wall in a single piece. This is what I have come up with. Does this seem reasonable? It will also be glued. Is it overkill to router out the inside of the wall?

wall_connect.jpg
wall_connect.jpg (15.99 KiB) Viewed 6665 times