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Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:36 pm
by be_a_jayhawk
Love the thread this looks to be very similar to the 5x10 I am building off a similar used trailer I snagged off of CL. I am seeing a lot of my own questions answered. I can't wait for it to warm up so I can get back to it.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:24 pm
by be_a_jayhawk
So I am using this trailer that has a channel for 2x6s or wider for flooring. If I fill the channel for thw floor and simply mount the walls on top is that going to lead to trouble keeping it water tight? I can't extend the walls down beside the floor due to the wheel wells and other frame welds. What is the best way to keep out water running down the walls when it rains?

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:04 pm
by dodgedartgt
Let's see some detail pictures. But, from what I see, I would suggest the floor lay inside the perimeter angle iron, and doing what is required to have the wall overlap the outside of the frame to shed the rain. You may have to do some more grinding and modifications.

Mike in FL

[edited for spelling]

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:36 pm
by Bogo
lfrazer98 wrote:I was just thinking that we might have too imperfect of an outer rail to just used a caulk.
For larger gaps, a caulking bead backing can be used. Basically they are round foam gap fillers of various diameters, that the caulk is applied up against. They allow for greater joint thicknesses, and greater flexibility.

Another option would be to use a thicker foam strip made out of a lighter weight foam. Areas that need to be compressed can be, while the larger gaps are still filled. I'd use a closed cell foam to keep water absorption down. Condensation running down the walls on the inside will soak into an open celled foam. A bead of caulk at the floor to wall joint may keep the water out.

With all caulks, jointing surface prep is important. Clean using the recommended method, and don't touch with your oily fingers after cleaning. Even if your fingers don't feel oily, they still are oily enough to cause long term problems.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:35 pm
by be_a_jayhawk
Tried to grind some more side bits off this weekend.....killed a grinder.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:01 am
by bobhenry
Use a cutting wheel not a grinding wheel when cutting thru the steel. When I built the barn I cut off all the 14" side walls except around the wheels as you are doing. This was done with a 12 dollar Harbor freight 4" grinder (which is still alive and well)

Let me look and I will post some picks of my inside outside wheel wells :roll:

Oh hell here is the link

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=30307

all the pictures showing what I did are on the first page or two.

Later you will seew how I formed the sides around the fender leaving it partially inside and partially outside the body

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:18 am
by bobhenry
Here are a couple of pictures further back in the thread showing the side before caulking and painting and a final shot.

Image

Image

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 12:39 pm
by Tommy2tone_1999
I have a Northern Tool 5x8 trailer which has predrilled holes along the side rails. I will be using carriage bolts with fanged washers and stop bolts to secure the walls directly through the trailer side rails. I will drill recesses in the sidewalls to allow the bolts to lie below the level og the wall and I'll fill in the recesses with wood filler, then float a piece of diamond plate on top.

Image

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 6:08 pm
by lfrazer98
I, too, am mounting my side walls on the outside of my trailer frame. It struck me last night! How do I seal up the bottom edges of my side walls? Dad and I figured that we don't want a trim piece that curves around the corner since it might have a tendency to hold water (if a seal fails), so we figured we would apply copious amounts of CPES to the edge, apply an aluminum double edge trim to the outward facing bottom edge of the side wall, then tar up the ground facing bottom edge of the side wall with the asphalt I coated the bottom of the trailer with. Thoughts? As a side note, I already ordered all my trim, so I won't change that, but could always add extra waterproofing material.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 9:02 am
by Tommy2tone_1999
That's pretty much what I'm doing as well. The walls all got generous coats of CPES on the edges, then I'm going to apply 2-3 coats of Zinsser oil based primer, then I'll tape up the outside part of of the walls to cover the sections to be painted then tar the bottom edges.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 2:43 pm
by Esteban
Lauren, if you are still going to have "woodie" side walls you can use epoxy (with or without fiberglass cloth - your choice) on the bottom edge of the plywood walls to seal the edge grain from water intrusion. Epoxy can be use alone, or on top of the CPES.

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:43 pm
by lfrazer98
Perfect! Thanks for the replies! That is exactly what I was thinking. :)

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:00 pm
by oldsmokey
Here's my question: I'm building on a Northern Tool 5 x 8 trailer, and I plan to mount the walls outside of the frame rails (per the Frederick manual) to give me a true 60" inside cabin width for a queen size bed. What I'm worried about is the width of the roof. Assuming my walls are 1-1/4" thick, my overall outside width will be 62-1/2" or at least 62". I'd like to skin the roof with aluminum, but I'm guessing I'll only find it in 60" width. Should I plan on capping my walls with some kind of molding to make up the 1-1/4" on each side that the roof skin won't cover - is that what most people do? (BTW I'm putting "woodie" trim around the sides, so an ash molding strip on top would probably look OK) Help!?!

Thanks for any and all suggestions!

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:17 pm
by tony.latham
Build your drop so the outside is 60" wide. My walls are 1-1/4" thick and my queen-sized 5" mattress and 2" memory foam topper fit in just fine.

I'm a big fan of Fredrick's build methods. :-)

T

Re: Wall attachment options...illustrated!!!

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:44 pm
by KCStudly
What Tony said +1.

I decided to go 64 inch wide because of my thick foamie walls, and the fact that I can get canvas in wider widths. If I had it to do over I would have kept it at 60. There's plenty of room inside and still would have been at 60 wide, even with my 1-11/16 thick walls (1-1/2 inch foam + 5mm ply inner skin).

Unless you are doing a box spring mattress (some people go to the trouble of keeping a pass thru under the bulkhead), then you would probably want to go down to a full size. Remember, you don't have to worry about falling out of bed, so you can sleep closer to the walls. Also, if using a foam mattress you can cut or have it cut down a little from queen to make changing the sheets easier (or so I have been told).