WindowshakerA/C: drainpipe /pan/problem solved!

[KCStudly]

I'm wondering if a large computer case fan would work equally well, cost less, and be more quiet. Though maybe not heat proof like the dedicated HVAC unit you plan on adding.

Looks like you're on your way to getting it to work reliably.

Can you tell me more about your adjustable vent grille/diffuser? Where did you find it and what is the diameter of the screw hole pattern?


TIA

[working on it]

• KC-Its the same vent and butterfly that I used for interior ventilation. I got them at E-trailer.com http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Redline/9139.html. When installing them, I never measured the hole spacing, but I cut 5.5" diameter holes with my Roto-Zip, centered the outside louvered piece over the hole, and with the screws already partially screwed into it, marked their location by giving the vent a solid rap with my hand. The screw heads would indent the plywood exterior where I needed to drill the four butterfly mounting holes. I drilled 1/4" because I needed extra wiggle room to get all four started (never could match up 2 holes on a total of 16 spots (4 vents)). But, I never could drill in a straight line (I used Spax screws in those two spots, to catch the threads).
• I'm gonna use the duct fan in the duct, but I'll also add another case fan, much the same as I put in the cabin, except reversed flow to direct air over the A/C chassis cooling coils.
• interior fans;120 cfm hi-static pressure versions
• asianflava- I haven't run my A/C long enough to get any overflow into the drainpan, or to the exit pipe. Also, I have a 4 degree back angle to keep drips out of the cabin, plus, I used foil tape to seal about an extra inch high on the sides, but made sure I didn't seal the bottom opening (a slight depression with about 1/4" hole). So I may not have a drainage problem (we'll see). And, I use three different window-shakers at home...two 15100 btu Frigidaires that really produce a lot of water, a 10000 btu Frigidaire that produces a little extra water (over the amount used in its internal splash-cooling), and an 8000 btu LG that seems to never produce any excess water (thus no leaks possible, nor mold problems).PS : the unit in the trailer is a 5000 btu LG , and I didn't detect any water yet in runs of 20 minutes, and 40 minutes (during cooler weather).
• Here are some personal comments about me and window-shakers, and why I want this one to succeed! All my units work great, and from my personal experience (having grown up and old in homes with and without central air) I prefer the window units. The sound, the airflow, are comforting to me. I almost wish that the 5k unit in the TTT made more noise!

[KCStudly]

Thanks for the link. The butterfly part is also available separately, and that is what I am interested in as a possible solution for my bulkhead vent fan.

[2bits]

On my teardrop, the AC unit was installed under the galley and separately vented, and I used a bathroom vent fan to duct the exhaust with a tube, but it was not enough CFM to do the trick. I ended up cutting a larger hole in the floor...


And then making a downward curve box to direct the exhaust and it worked great with no fans and in Texas heat...


Problem is that you now have a big hole in the floor so you need to build a spoiler in front of it to deflect water.

[working on it]

• After finishing everything else on the trailer today, I got back to addressing my A/C thermal shutdown problem, and drilled seven 3/8" holes in the louvered vent' rainshield to increase airflow- (airflow noticeably better, to my perception).
• drilled holes in the vent's inner rainshield
• With the 110vac, 240cfm, 266 degree max temp, 6" diameter inline duct fan due in on Friday, I can rework the ducting and finish the HHRv on Saturday.

• 

  photo_axialfanpg.jpg (41.84 KiB) Viewed 787 times

  axial inside-the-duct fan; my hope for a solution
• 2bits Since I have no way of routing the exhaust downward from its location, nor upward due to the hatch to roof water shield, my choice is to stick with the current routing, and force the hot air out faster (if need to, I'll eliminate the inner rainshield entirely, and put a drain in the exhaust tubing, in the offhand chance that it'll collect there, since I'll route the tube downward towards the vent, if possible).

[working on it]

Received my Aero-Flow 6" booster fan yesterday; impressed by it's quality look and feel (made in Indiana-USA, I believe). Detailed instructions (in English!), template, mounting hardware, packaged well...and delivered to my door by UPS (shippers choice, my preference!). I almost don't want to install it because it's so perfect...much different than many of my E-bay purchases. Normally, I shop locally to see what I'm getting in person, and picking one that is undamaged and complete, and not receiving something in pieces with the box opened or crushed and with parts missing. Refreshing experience!

[working on it]

• Wired in the duct fan and re-configured the ducting. Tested in 84 degree garage by running at 75% setting for 2.5 hours. Result: success! The A/C output was a 40 degree breeze, taking the interior temperature of the trailer to 58 degrees. The exhaust temperature, as measured with the temp gauge stuck in the vent (reading the metal temp, not the air temp) reached 160 degrees and stayed there as long as the compressor was running, when it would cycle off (as designed, not as a failsafe measure), the exhaust vent temperature would rapidly fall to slightly above ambient (due to the A/C fan still blowing in conjunction with the booster fan...the holes in the rainshield were helping too). Boy am I glad it is working right; I didn't want to start over with a different A/C set-up. Here's coupla pictures of the final configuration
• 
• Also, after 2.5 hours of running, I couldn't detect any drainage or hear any water inside the A/C. Just like on my LG 8k btu unit at home. Maybe I didn't need to build a drainage system after all (a weekends work!). Still happy though.

[working on it]

• I just keep adding to this system, in hopes of finally perfecting it. Today, I added another fan for the A/C, this time to circulate air thru the chassis louvers. Although I have an open vent next to the chassis, I wondered whether the small airspace over it and to the streetside wall, might hold in stagnant, heated air, especially when the hatch is closed at night (as I designed it to be). I added a 12vdc computer case fan , which I got w/blue LEDs (to match the inside hatch lighting) http://www.frys.com/product/7020611;jsessionid=IT8-zyE3A5uEVhYjw4Ztgg__.node1?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG, but used a dedicated 110vac to 12vdc transformer to power it (the A/C will only run if 110vac is available).
• I made a bracket to mount the fan on the open (curbside) of the chassis to blow cool air into the louvers, and not heated air towards my Coleman Corner and fuel cans.
• blue fan, mounted behind ducting
• Then, I added an extension cord to consolidate all A/C power onto one switch in easy reach.
• single switch now powers up A/C unit, axial duct fan, exterior chassis fan
• As usual, further details can be found in my gallery. I probably still have to write an operators manual for my wife to operate the trailer!

[KCStudly]

I appreciate your 'stick to it' attitude and the fact that your climate requires AC; and you have been very diligent in working thru your install, but dude, where the heck did your galley go?

Just kidding. I get it. Priorities. If my wife wasn't such a lizard I would have installed central air in our house years ago.

Nice install.

[working on it]

• KCStudly- You're quite right, my priorities overruled the conventional wisdom of placing galley items in the galley. Let me justify this, at least to myself! I started out planning for cabinets, slide out shelf for a Coleman stove, a tiled workspace for cooking stuff, and a cooler storage area (and maybe even a microwave, too) all in the "galley". Then I started listing my priorities (and my wife's) about what to carry along that would make a TTT better than a tent for an excursion into the wilderness (Crypto-Zoological expeditions, you know!).
• The priorities (besides staying dry in inclement weather) were heating and cooling. In a 4x8, not planning to venture north of the Mason-Dixon line, and not in the dead of winter, a small heater (300w) and 20 degree sleeping bag (to supplement foam mattress/comforter) would suffice, no insulation really needed. But, for cooling, an A/C unit was the first consideration (followed by good fans, and of course a dependable power source). So, the heating could be totally contained in the cabin, but the A/C requirement, specifically the dependable power source (in my mind, a generator was the only solution), was going to have to be external to the cabin.
• It was suggested to me to put the generator on the tongue, with the battery too, and the A/C on the streetside wall, in lieu of a second window. I had already decided and cut my profile out, with sloping front, and specially shaped doors that precluded windows there (not enough area/irregular shape). But, my wife insisted on 2 windows, or more, to alleviate the "coffin" feeling. (Myself, I could live without any windows, a "cave" mindset). So, the A/C would have to be on front (warned against this by some, wind-blown water leaks while travelling, and because of the 45 degree slope there) or in the back. And the A/C unit installation would have to be in place if my wife was going to use it, because she wasn't going to install it at camp, so a permanent location had to be made. And there we have it, the A/C goes in the back wall (high up, so the air isn't at head level when sleeping, and the noise is less apparent), and a generator (not on the tongue, secure out of the weather, in the rear) must be included for dependable power. All other considerations must be worked to fit around these items. Therefore, 1.) A/C, 2.) generator, 3.) drain pan, 4.)fuel supply for generator went in the "galley".
• Since genny and fuel were already going there, then the Coleman stove and lantern and fuel could reside there too, and the only room left could be utilized by the battery (better there, close to the genny and "park power" inlet, than on the tongue), and the space under the A/C install was a good spot for the water jug (on a shelf, readily usable). My only wrinkle in this, my personal touch, was to see if I could make this work with the hatch closed, and/or without having the A/C exhaust venting directly in your face, if you were fetching the water. So that's why no cooking in the galley, and the genesis of this whole thread. All the other cooking gear/supplies go in a Tractor Supply box in the tow vehicle.

• 

  tsc box

  1092521.jpg (6.43 KiB) Viewed 683 times

  Tractor Supply 32" wide storage box (thick-walled, lockable)
• Now, I see another reason why larger trailer footprints are so popular: more space for conventional storage. Now the "galley" is absolutely done for better or worse, certainly different, certainly non-conventional.
• probably not the final configuration, but for now, it is

[KCStudly]

Custom built to suit your needs, as they all should be.