Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Corwin C wrote:oakinteriors1

One possible problem that I'm seeing ... the wiley window frame is quite close to the tangent of the corner curve and just barely below. Make sure your door will open/close without it hitting the curve of the door frame. Pictures at oblique angles can be deceiving, but it looks real close to me depending on how you're planning to hinge it.

the side brackets don't need to be the full height of the window glass, they are just there for the glass to rest on, if you need to trim a few inches off top of the door latch side bracket it will still work just fine.
great looking windows guys

oakinteriors1 wrote:I added a different feature to my Wiley's , a larger sill and sloped.. I intend on being able to raise the window an inch and a half with it still flat against the door..a dowel pin will keep it from sliding down and the blowing rain should not come in...
1/4'' Baltic birch sides and cedar trim...I still have to make the triangle stays and get some newer plexi...

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any pictures of the dowel in use? I may have missed it, sounds like a great idea. I saved the cut out piece from the window hole, rotated it 90 degrees and made a solid panel to block off the lower half of the window. I meant it as a privacy panel or a way to increase airflow with the window out while still keeping rain out. I've never used it though...

I finished building my window not to long ago and used this thread quite a bit. Thanks!

your theme and build are great!

I fitted fly screens to the outside of my Wiley windows yesterday and realised I should have thought a little more first! The screens I fitted are simply fastened to the outer surface of the door with brass screws and will work fine, but I "next time" I will do them differently.

First, it would have been better to fasten the screen frames using cleats and toggles to make them easily removable.

Better still, with a bit better planning I would have made the inner parts of the window able to accept a cassette style of screen. To do this the slot into which the glazing drops would need to be deeper to allow the screen to be dropped in first and sandwiched between the glass and inner face of the door. Does that make sense or should I draw it?

No problems, maybe I will modify the ones I have down the track. In the mean time my TD is mozzie proof

do you have a way for any water to drain out of the window chanel?

He probably has some kind of weep holes you can't see...
That is the fun thing about building without plans just improvise as you go...

rowerwet wrote:do you have a way for any water to drain out of the window channel?

Not clear in that latest pic, but the bottom section of the window aperture is open... no outer lip. The screen is flush with the bottom of the cut-out and so water drains out through the mesh.

If you look at my earlier post you will see a pic of the outside of the window before I fixed the screen. The lower gutter is high on the inner edge and open on the outer.

I think I'd rather screw and caulk these frames to the doors rather than mount them permanently...Is that what you guys have done?

The window sill will allow me to raise the window and keep the rain out...






I've got to get some different plexi..that is just some junk I had on hand..

my window is a permanent part of the door, to make the window frame take less interior space it is integrated into my doors interior framing and the window glass seats against the inside face of the door outer skin.
thanks for the pictures of the dowel spacers idea.

With the help of this and other posts I made circular Wiley windows
Thanks
http://youtu.be/ft75_VwSqvs

grantstew8 wrote:With the help of this and other posts I made circular Wiley windows
Thanks
http://youtu.be/ft75_VwSqvs

That's an excellent example of how these windows were used in boats - often they would have oval cutouts with rectangular glass behind them.

This makes the drainage holes drilled through the side wall super-important if you want to stop rot from happening. You can't expect all the water on the glass to drain into the centre so that it can get out. The drain holes need to be big enough to not get easily clogged with dirt, you need to clean them out regularly (a pipe cleaner is good) and you need to get some preservative/coating on the wood grain inside the drain hole, particularly if it is plywood - 'painting' with a pipe cleaner works!

I find with the window screen outside of the glass hardly any rain (or snow) gets through to the glass, I sealed the trough and drain holes with marine epoxy. The tear is sitting outside for the winter with the wiley window open. I'll report on anything found this spring.

rowerwet wrote:I sealed the trough and drain holes with marine epoxy.

That is the best treatment of all. For the drain holes, the perfect method would be to drill them a little large, put tape over one side and then fill them with epoxy from the other side (with door lying on bench). Once the epoxy has gone hard, drill out at the right size and that should give a fully epoxy-lined hole.