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Seal Design corner seal tape

PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 10:17 am
by breb
I ran across this in a recent RV repair video and wondered if anyone here has used it on there build? It is sold under the Seal Design name and the product is Seal-Tite corner seal. I've found it in three different width's 1.25", 1.5", 2.0" and 50' rolls. the tape has a permanent adhesive back and a fabric opposite side . The tape is applied and then you use it with a caulk sealer between it and your corner trim. This looks like a newer product but not sure on that.

Re: Seal Design corner seal tape

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:47 pm
by Andrew Herrick
I've used EternaBond as a corner tape seal. Looks like Dicor is in the game, though. I'm also curious to see if anyone has used it. Looks cheaper than EternaBond. I might be making the switch! And yeah, it's newer. Dicor's press release for the buy direct online link for Seal-Tite corner seal is dated June 23, 2016.

Re: Seal Design corner seal tape

PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:18 am
by Andrew Herrick
Follow up!

Just bought a few rolls direct from the manufacturer. Shipping isn't free so buy extra rolls if you can. Available in 1, 1.25 and 2-inch widths, I think.

The pressure-sensitive adhesive looks, feels and behaves somewhat similar to the EternaBond adhesive. Far less expensive, though. It even works well on dirty surfaces, but if you clean your aluminum with rubbing alcohol - wow, this stuff has a bite! Roll it well to ensure an even grab. It is extremely easy to mold. It even works well on corrugated metal.

With that said, it isn't structural. The adhesive is sure sticky, but the backing, which is a sort of synthetic fleece, will rip under tension. So don't use it to try to hold down aluminum over a radius. Believe me. I tried it :x

Butyl tape DOES NOT STICK WELL to the fleece. If you want to use butyl tape under the aluminum trim between it and the tape, attach it to the underside of the trim rather than the tape. I think some sort of a liquid sealant might be easier to work with. The tape itself is *almost* waterproof, so you might be able to get away with just taping the corner seam and leaving out the extra sealant?? Not sure.

You can easily cut the tape with a utility knife or pair of scissors.

VOTE: Time will tell how it holds up, but I'll use it again. :thumbsup:

Re: Seal Design corner seal tape

PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 12:20 pm
by Andrew Herrick
I'm resurrecting an old thread here for more follow up.

1. Cripes, this stuff is sticky. Once it cures, you can't scrape or sand it off. Mineral spirits, citrus degreasers and rubbing alcohol had almost no effect. The only adhesive remover that worked for me was Goof-Off, and even then, it was slow going.

2. SealDesign, the manufacturer, suggests laying a 1/8 to 1/4-inch bead of liquid sealant on the underside of the trim. Once the screw down the trim, the sealant should squeeze out on all sides. If you didn't add enough, you can go back over the seam with a cap sealant. You do have to install the screws while the sealant is still wet, otherwise it might not waterproof the screw holes. I found this method easier than using butyl tape.

3. The adhesive is pressure-sensitive. A laminate J-roller will make your life much easier.

4. SealDesign CornerSeal is my go-to waterproofing tape for all exterior seams. Hasn't failed me yet and can be applied in very cold and very warm temperatures. When coupled with smart joint design and a good sealant - ahem, not silicone - it's pretty close to a permanent solution.

5. With that said, EternaBond is better for other applications. It sticks better to wood, has a stronger backing, and more UV resistance. I use it for all exposed seams.

Re: Seal Design corner seal tape

PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:24 am
by Andrew Herrick
And ... I'm back! More information.

1. If you need to get this stuff off, mineral spirits or IPA (isopropyl alcohol) doesn't work well. I used Goof Off and a putty knife.

2. It cuts easily with a pair of scissors or utility knife. The liner is thin, clear plastic and peels off very easily.

3. Do yourself a favor and use a Sharpie (which washes off with IPA) to mark one edge of your roof trim. Then align the tape with that edge. That way you won't have taping peeking out and have to spend hours cleaning it off.

4. One possible alternative shortcut to #3 is to use black aluminum trim and black sealant. Then, if the tape extends beyond the trim, the black cap sealant might help cover it up. Of course, you could use white trim and white sealant, or silver trim and silver sealant as well.

It's pretty idiot-proof. Just apply, roll and seal.