Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

aggie79 wrote:Prior to my first post, I wanted to say that I love the clean lines of your design!

aggie79 wrote:The lower cabinets are on the head side at the front of the trailer.

aggie79 wrote:A mock-up is the way to go. Sounds like you have pretty good clearance and the height should work for the upper cabinets. In your mock-up you may want to add in the height of the mattress to account for its thickness.

KendaldaCosta wrote:Hmm.. ok, Being that I'm making a 10 footer, I doubt that I'll have extended leg room under the galley. I guess my "extended leg" room comes under the upper cabinets near the nose.

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cwegga wrote:Another reason for the bed orientation is the ease of climbing into bed from the door at the open end of the blankets vs. having to scootch up the bed from the door to get off the blankets enough to get in them. You could move the door(s) but may not have enough flexibility there with wheel locations.

cwegga wrote:

KendaldaCosta wrote:Hmm.. ok, Being that I'm making a 10 footer, I doubt that I'll have extended leg room under the galley. I guess my "extended leg" room comes under the upper cabinets near the nose.

Another reason for the bed orientation is the ease of climbing into bed from the door at the open end of the blankets vs. having to scootch up the bed from the door to get off the blankets enough to get in them. You could move the door(s) but may not have enough flexibility there with wheel locations.

jsnbergman wrote:Most have their pillows at the front of the tear. A lot of designs have foot room under the galley countertop, the shorter trailers any way.

• I built my 4x8 squareback TTT counter to the prevailing fashion, by having my bed with "headroom" at the rear. And, since my galley is completely vertical, not protruding or overhanging the cabin space, I was able to hang my rearmost shelf 24" above my head, to have room to rise up, with no conflict. Foot clearance is set at 18", underneath a folding wire rack that expands or contracts as needed. There is an overhead shelf above the doorframe, that holds lighting, stereo, and a large ventilator fan (10" diameter) hanging down above the bed. At 36" over the doorsill, it allows enough space for easy head-first entry/foot-first exit, or once did, before I got a bad back and knees (I've since added an overhead grab handle to aid exiting).
• The decision to use a rear head position was due to having the axle a bit too far forward (55/45 as opposed to 60/40 front/rear placement), having too much front slope on the leading edge of the roof (45 degrees, because I wanted easy mitered cuts), and placing an overhead shelf just above the doors (I should've placed it 6" higher, to make headroom when entering). With either a taller or longer profile, the door could've been in a better position for a standard sitting posture upon entry/exit, but I squeezed everything in in too tight a space, to allow for that. Maybe that's why people build a second trailer, to correct their errors committed during their first build, or at least smooth out the rough edges. I wantd to build a different sort of trailer; some things worked well, others not so much.

working on it wrote: (I've since added an overhead grab handle to aid exiting).

I'll probably swap the headboard to the nose end of the trailer and switch my sleeping orientation.

tony.latham wrote:

I'll probably swap the headboard to the nose end of the trailer and switch my sleeping orientation.

I think that will aid with entry and exit––plus one thing that works for us, are hooks just aft of the door and right at the ceiling to hang our clothes from. It'd be a bit of a pain without them. Flipping around will allow you to have a couple of hooks and your hanging clothes won't be in your face.

Tony