Trimming out REALLY THICK DOORS???

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Trimming out REALLY THICK DOORS???

Postby Thickshell » Wed Jan 03, 2018 3:33 am

Happy Holidays Everyone!!

So, I took some advice from a neighbor who sounded like he knew what he was talking about and built walls 1 1/2" thick! I'm almost positive this is overkill, but it's sturdy as all hell and I routed out a bunch of sections from the walls and added foam insulation to take some of the weight out before I skinned the walls with plywood

Anyway, I am building my own doors and they are 30" X 36" with a 3" radius on each corner. I cannot find any trim nor any T-Molding that will cover the thickness of the 1 1/2" door without leaving some of the wood exposed...

There must be someone out there who's built a TD with thicker doors and had to use something else to Water-Seal his/her doors?

My best guess is to use Surfboard Resin or Epoxy to seal the wood on the doors and then cut four corners and four straight lengths out of some sturdy sheet metal to be attached inside the doorjamb and then that's what the weather stripping / Gasket rests on to make the seal??

Any Ideas out there better than this one? I'm not even sure mine makes sense!!

Holy Crap am I learning a lot this first time around...
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Re: Trimming out REALLY THICK DOORS???

Postby pchast » Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:53 pm

You can likely make something of flashing material
to cover that extra width.
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Re: Trimming out REALLY THICK DOORS???

Postby daveesl77 » Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:35 am

Conch Fritter's walls/doors are 1.25" thick. I built them from the wall itself. What I mean is that while my walls are probably 90% foam, in the areas of where I knew I would put a wiley window or the door, so it is a solid build. When it came time to cut out the doors and windows, I just cut them directly out of the wall. I did this primarily so the cedar strips were still perfectly aligned and it was really easy to do, just took a while to cut out so I could be very precise, as I knew I would be using the cutout pieces. Also, this made the door-frame dimensions exact. You do have to provide some space for the opening angle needed, but you can plane/cut this off the hinge side of the door itself.

On the interior side I made a continuous frame and lip that extends from about 1" outside the door dimensions to and a 1/2" inset lip. I made it from poplar. I epoxied the exterior facing portion of the lip as well as the entire inner surface of the cut-out in the wall. Oh, and I have a very, very slight downward angle cut (I think it was 10 degrees) on the bottom edges of the door and wall opening, for water to flow out. I seal it all with a 1/4" strip of 3M foam weather stripping that is self adhesive. This actually seals everything and when the door is closed, doing the "light test" (using a really bright light at night) on the door edges, nothing can be seen.

However, not being one to leave well enough alone, I also added a 1.5" aluminum strip to the outer edge of the door, just for looks. The aluminum is maybe 1/16" and I cut it from a piece of aluminum sheeting I had laying around. It looks cool, but really doesn't do anything.

So, if you make your interior lip absolutely weather tight, you don't need anything on the outside.

Dave and Regina - Enjoying old age, a LOT!

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