Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi there, new to the forum but really enjoying all of the content so far. I’m currently drawing up plans for a small camping trailer, not tear drop but more rectangular. My current plan has an insulated floor (just foam insulation sheets from Home Depot) and the same in the 2 side walls since those are the largest surface areas. My front wall is just a single sheet of 3/4” and my back wall is too.

I wanted to hear thoughts on what you all have done and where you stand on insulating these things. It’s a small 4x8 harbor freight trailer as the base btw.

Thanks!


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I'm in the camp that believes that if you are losing heat through a teardrop floor, your mattress isn't thick enough.

Having said that, If I build #4––and I'm toying with it––I'll build the floor using a 1" x 4" framework filled with hard foam and sheathed on both sides with 1/4" subfloor plywood. The foam will be for stiffness, not insulation.



I want some meat to attach the walls too.

And walls and ceiling? I want them insulated. Otherwise, you'll get condensation.





Tony

I live in the California Central Coast with a mild Mediterranean climate where it seldom freezes. I'm building a 5'4" wide by 10' long Benroy(ish) teardrop trailer. My goal is to keep the completed empty trailer weight under 1,200 lbs. When loaded up with bedding, clothing, food, water and other camping supplies I want to keep the weight under 1,500 lbs. I'm trying to very carefully consider the weight of all the components to best achieve those goals.

My goal is to build a teardrop that will be comfortable while camping in a wide range of weather conditions whether it's hot, freezing, dry or rainy/wet outside; that substantially reduces interior condensation, and will have better soundproofing than solid plywood does. I'm building the floor, walls, cabin/galley bulkhead, the roof and galley hatch with sandwich construction for those reasons and to better control weight. To get the best insulation value in limited space(s) I'm using rigid Polyisocyanurate (ISO) foam board that has an aged R Value of about 6.5/inch.

The floor will have 3/4" framing and insulation. The side walls will have 1" framing and insulation. The bulkhead will have 3/4" framing and insulation. The roof, galley hatch and front cabin wall will have 1-1/2" framing and insulation so they all will have an insulation value of about R-10.

I'm using 1/8" plywood inside and (Baltic Birch) on the exterior. The exterior will be completely fiberglassed to strengthen and water proof the thin exterior plywood skin. The outsides will be painted with white marine paint to protect the fiberglass from UV damage, to better reflect radiant heat, and to look good.

Which Rigid Insulation Should I Use? explains that rigid foam boards vary from about R-4/inch up to R-6.5/inch.

All depends on where you plan to camp and what sort of climate control you plan to use.

For me, against cold using propane heat, 4" roof, 3" walls, 2" floor.

Reversed if heat is the problem using genny- powered A/C.

For both 3" all 'round.

And don't just look at R-value, you want as completely sealed an envelope as possible.

For those following the 60's and used to a little discomfort, none at all is required.

tony.latham wrote:I'm in the camp that believes that if you are losing heat through a teardrop floor, your mattress isn't thick enough.

Having said that, If I build #4––and I'm toying with it––I'll build the floor using a 1" x 4" framework filled with hard foam and sheathed on both sides with 1/4" subfloor plywood. The foam will be for stiffness, not insulation.

Hi Tony,

Why 1" x 4" instead of skeletonizing 3/4" plywood? Thought you said you had problems using 1-by as a framework for the walls on your first build. Would the 1" x 4" cause the same problems with the floor?

I'm designing mine right now, and appreciate the experienced advice!

Tom

Fwiw... I'm looking at the Big Woody plans and they have the side walls as 3/4 laminated plywood, with insulation on the floor and ceiling. So I'm equally interested in input.


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Wow talk about heavy!

Why 1" x 4" instead of skeletonizing 3/4" plywood? Thought you said you had problems using 1-by as a framework for the walls on your first build. Would the 1" x 4" cause the same problems with the floor?

Tom:

I certainly recommend 3/4" ply for the skeleton walls. Much less labor than joining numerous chunks of 1 x 4s.

However, the floor is a different critter. It's all 90º angles. Screw and glue 1/4's to the plywood. It's quick. No joinery.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

Why 1" x 4" instead of skeletonizing 3/4" plywood? Thought you said you had problems using 1-by as a framework for the walls on your first build. Would the 1" x 4" cause the same problems with the floor?

Tom:

I certainly recommend 3/4" ply for the skeleton walls. Much less labor than joining numerous chunks of 1 x 4s.

However, the floor is a different critter. It's all 90º angles. Screw and glue 1/4's to the plywood. It's quick. No joinery.

Tony

for insulating walls, roof & floor.

1/4" ply top and bottom and 1x2s worked fine for me for the floor.

John61CT wrote:.

For those following the 60's and used to a little discomfort, none at all is required.

Hi!

Are there good tools/apps/sites for "following the 60's"? I'm imagining some map or interactive-ish tool to help plan!

tony.latham wrote:Tom:

I certainly recommend 3/4" ply for the skeleton walls. Much less labor than joining numerous chunks of 1 x 4s.

However, the floor is a different critter. It's all 90º angles. Screw and glue 1/4's to the plywood. It's quick. No joinery.

Tony

Thank you Tony. and thank you Aggie79 for your comments.

Tom