How do I cut a smooth rabbet for the headliner?

[tearlurker]

I’m confused about this, mostly because I have limited router experience. Can someone explain or better show me with images how to cut the 1 and 5/8” rabbet for the headliner? Do you use an edge guide? I want to do it on a plywood skeleton rather than stick built. For what it’s worth, I have read Steve Fredericks manual but I really could use some guidance.

Thanks!

[tony.latham]

I’m confused about this, mostly because I have limited router experience. Can someone explain or better show me with images how to cut the 1 and 5/8” rabbet for the headliner? Do you use an edge guide? I want to do it on a plywood skeleton rather than stick built. For what it’s worth, I have read Steve Fredericks manual but I really could use some guidance.

Thanks!

It's really not a rabbet. You cut them off and set them aside for blocking down the road.

I screw both skeletons together and cut them off with a jigsaw and a good blade such as a Starrett BU36T or Bosch T144DP to get a 90º cut. Go slow.

It should like something like the top of this:



Plain as day?

Tony

[tearlurker]

Thanks Tony, I guess I should have explained it better. I am going by the plans for the Wyoming Woody created by Ryan. This is a detail from his plan. It’s the 1/4” headliner routed out of the plywood.

[troubleScottie]

Depending on your router face.

If it is circular or has a flat edge, you can follow a straight edge. There are lots of different edge guides. Metal ones are generally better. Even a outside edge from a sheet of plywood could work. Often the guide edge cannot be clamped in the middle of the work. Screwing a block over the guide can be useful in preventing the edge from lifting.

Not having tried it, two edge guides might be better still eg bracketing the router so it has to stay on the line.

If not, you need a guide attached to the router that can follow a straight edge.

The biggest issue is you need to start with a plunge cut is the "rabbet" does not run the entire length. Of course, depending on your carpentry skills and need for perfect, you could make the cut all the way across the piece.

I would start the plunge away from the end and move toward one end. Then go the other end. A good vacuum will make everything easier. Also masking tape on the outer edges should (might) reduce splintering.

The other question is how deep a plunge. This will depend on the type and size of the bit you are using. You might want to experiment. For instance a 3/4" plunge and rabbet most likely is too much for your bit and router. You might try 1/4" or 1/8" at a time.

Also for 1 5/8", might have to do multiple parallel cuts. I am not sure if you should do each to depth, then move to the next one OR do all the same depth. The router should have a good footing on the surrounding (uncut) surfaces either way.


Having said all this, you have posted an image. You are looking at the edge of the wall which may or may not have curves.

If it is truly a straight cut, I would use a table saw. You will still need to chisel out the ends.

If following curve, you would use the router to cut the inner most edge first, as there is the most support for the router face. To cut further, you need a really large face extension (https://www.rockler.com/universal-router-base) OR this one ( https://www.rockler.com/mpower-combinat ... -base-crb7) OR you must put wood against the outside edge to support the

[KTM_Guy]

Not sure how far along you are but Steve Fredericks manual is different than the Wyoming Woody's plan both get you the the same place but not on the same road.

On my Wyoming Woody I used Steves way which is what Tony's plan is below. What makes the rabbit is when you put the outer skin on the skeleton. Remember the outer skin is routed flush with the skeleton before it is glued on, then you cut the 1 5/8" off like Tony said then the outer skin gets glued on. Easier that way and you have a bigger ledge for the ceiling plywood the sit on. I'll have to look to see if I have any photos in my build of that part.

Does that help?

Todd

[tony.latham]

Thanks Tony, I guess I should have explained it better. I am going by the plans for the Wyoming Woody created by Ryan. This is a detail from his plan. It’s the 1/4” headliner routed out of the plywood.

Gotcha.

I've got one of these:



Rockler calls it their "Universal Router Base". The guide on it would work fine for this I think.



Tony

[tearlurker]

So that’s two thumbs up for the URB and Steve’s method. Re-reading that section, this may be a better option because it eliminates having to go back and create additional blocking. Using a jigsaw on two boards sounds a little tricky. I would imagine the blade wants to bow out a bit.

KTM_Guy, how did you handle the bottom ledge of your walls? Did you route them out?

[DWT77]

So that’s two thumbs up for the URB and Steve’s method. Re-reading that section, this may be a better option because it eliminates having to go back and create additional blocking. Using a jigsaw on two boards sounds a little tricky. I would imagine the blade wants to bow out a bit.

KTM_Guy, how did you handle the bottom ledge of your walls? Did you route them out?

Here is how I did mine go to 15:20 mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y4vZt7Wo2s

[tony.latham]

Using a jigsaw on two boards sounds a little tricky. I would imagine the blade wants to bow out a bit.

I've done it twice and will do it again next month. It works fine. You can't expect the wrong blade to work for this. You need a stiff blade that isn't designed for tight corners.



Part of the trick is to turn the jigsaw's orbital setting off.

Tony

[tearlurker]

Great video, Wayne. Very helpful. And I see the URB makes another appearance.

[Tom&Shelly]

Using a jigsaw on two boards sounds a little tricky. I would imagine the blade wants to bow out a bit.

I wasn't satisfied with my jigsaw technique in that regard, so took my template (~1/4" subflooring), drew two lines 1/8" apart and cut between them with a jig saw. Then I sanded to the lines. Then I used the two template pieces to draw two lines on each skeleton and used the jigsaw to cut between the lines. (I did that to each skeleton individually.) Finally I attached the template and cleaned everything up with the router.

Time consuming, but I'm satisfied with the results.

Used that procedure for both the ledge and to cut the hatch sides.

Tom

[DWT77]

Here is how Dad Rambles did his

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUZfWR63sJA

[Tom&Shelly]

By the way, one thing I learned about jig saw blades: Some come in "upcut" and "downcut" versions



Note the difference in the teeth. The upcut pulls against the saw's plate, which is usually good, but the downcut leaves less chip out on the top surface, and so is good if you are cutting out the hole for the sink in a kitchen counter, for example.

As it turns out, many hardware stores sell them side by side (naturally), and the packaging (at least on these Bosch blades) does not look obviously different from one to the other. Customers and even less sophisticated store workers are liable to pick up a package from one place, and accidentally put it back in the other. On Bosch, a difference is the "R" (for reverse) in the model number.

I used the regular upcut blades when cutting my skeleton. As Tony said, there are also thinner and shorter blades designed for cutting tighter angles. I used a set with symmetric (up and down) teeth for cutting the template, to good effect.

Tom

[tony.latham]

Here is how Dad Rambles did his

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUZfWR63sJA

I like that.

Thanks,

Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

Here is how Dad Rambles did his

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUZfWR63sJA

I looked around for those Rotozip adapters last Summer and couldn't find them. Now I just googled, and they're all over! I must have done something wrong back then

Tom