Wall construction with HF axle mount?

[kristaology]

Hi guys!

I've noticed that posts have slowed down a lot over the years and I hope you all are still out there!

I bought what looks like a Harbor Freight 1750 SuperDuty 4x8 trailer to build my teardrop on. I have the floor constructed and am ready to move onto the walls. I would like to go with the frame overlay method, running a piece of luan flush against the frame outside my 3/4 inch core.

However! I got to looking and the axel mount on these HF trailers doesn't allow for me to put anything flush against the frame. The mount is bolted to the outside of the frame where I intend on extending the exterior wall down.

Has anyone else come across this with HF trailers, and how do I achieve my flush mount exterior wall idea!? I can get pictures if you need them!

[greygoos]

I think I know what you are talking about but a picture would be helpful

[kristaology]

This is not exactly like my trailer, but the black painted leaf spring mount is the problem here. I'm at work (oops) otherwise I would get you a picture of my trailer! I just need a flat surface to mount the luan flush and trim the bottom.
Could I remove it and mount it back through the luan? I feel like that would instantly crack the luan.

[tony.latham]

I can't answer your specific question but I question the use of "luan" plywood for exterior sheathing.

Luan is a generic name for plywood that is usually made in Asia from unknown woods and glue. I think historically it was made for interior doors but is now manufactured for low-bid box stores.

You might check with your local lumberyards (not box stores) for 1/4" underlayment plywood. It has a solid core and is suitable for moist conditions.



Tony

[Tomterrific]

I don't think it is a good idea to mount the axle carrier over the exterior wood. It would weaken the mounting too much. You could cut the exterior fascia to go around the carrier. Just paint the carrier heavy so it looks good.

Another idea I just had is to do the above and use another piece of the same exterior fascia over the carrier. The luan plywood fascia would be close to the thickness of the carrier metal so a new piece cut to cover the carrier should fit and look okay.

Or, space the entire wall out enough so the Luan fascia clears the axle carrier.

Tt

[kristaology]

I don't think it is a good idea to mount the axle carrier over the exterior wood. It would weaken the mounting too much. You could cut the exterior fascia to go around the carrier. Just paint the carrier heavy so it looks good.

I agree. And you have an interesting idea on the cut out + sheath concept. I am trying to stay away from a lot of added weight. I guess I could sheath with a 1/4in sheet of plywood and try to router out the mount outline. I'm just afraid of it not sitting perfect on the frame. I'm not exactly router savvy.

[kristaology]

So I had an idea, and I'm wondering if anyone had any advice on the subject. T-molding. The stem slipped between the floor and the frame and the T runs over the exterior wall and the frame, allowing water to run off, IF I can seal the trim correctly. Butyl tape is a go-to, which I would put on both the top and bottom of the trim if you get what I'm saying.
The bottom of my floor has fibered roofing tar on it, so this may help seal as well.

What do you guys think?

Here's a quick office sketch if you need a reference.

[tony.latham]

I think you are asking for water to sit in that joint.

Me? I put the cabin on the exposed chassis.



I think it looks fine and allows me to build the cabin without dancing around the (damn) chassis.





Tony

[kristaology]

Tony, problem is, I've already tarred the floor thinking my original plan was to run the exterior wall over the frame. Since thats not happening, I need some way to either trim after its already sitting on the frame, or to build a stand to put the camper on somehow without screwing up my tar undercoating.

The pre-drilled bolt holes I intend on using to bolt down the floor are in the way of where my wall sits, so I either have to bolt it down first and try to build around that or pre-place bolts, build a wall over it, and hope the carriage bolts set right.

[tony.latham]

I need some way to either trim after its already sitting on the frame...

What's the purpose of the trim? Are you sheathing with aluminum?

T

[kristaology]

To seal the corner between the floor and the wall. I am sheathing with 1/4 in ply sealed with CPES and paint or varnish. Can't put angled trim on a corner if its already bolted to the trailer?

[greygoos]

Just used straight molding aka lattice or flat bar. Get a piece wide enough to cover part of the frame and part of the cabin. I have used aluminum, PVC and or wood

[kristaology]

And to seal the bottom edge of the 1/4'' ply, would the CPES work fine? I have weather stripping on my trailer frame to reduce friction and seal water away from the wall, but I'm worried about that uncovered bottom edge of exterior wall? Water is a pretty sneaky thing.

Every thing I've ever owned has leaked (1965 Banner camper, 1998 Jayco Eagle fifthwheel, 2004 Nissan Xterra) and I'm a little panicky about water damage happening under my nose because I missed some level of protection.

[greygoos]

This is what I have used for seams. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Typar-6-in- ... lsrc=aw.ds

[tony.latham]

And to seal the bottom edge of the 1/4'' ply, would the CPES work fine? I have weather stripping on my trailer frame to reduce friction and seal water away from the wall, but I'm worried about that uncovered bottom edge of exterior wall? Water is a pretty sneaky thing.

Every thing I've ever owned has leaked (1965 Banner camper, 1998 Jayco Eagle fifthwheel, 2004 Nissan Xterra) and I'm a little panicky about water damage happening under my nose because I missed some level of protection.

CPES would be a great choice for that edge.

T


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