Floor Construction

[Capebuild]

Hello.... I'm starting to think about how the floor will be constructed which will be inner framed members sandwiched with outer layers of 1/8 inch ply.
My question is.... do the outer ply layers get stapled to the inner framework..... or is it sufficient to just use a liberal amount of titebond, stack a ton of weight on the ply surface/and use clamps around the perimeter...
and let it "cure"?

I don't mind stapling the bottom layer that will sit on the trailer frame (and not be seen), but the top layer that will be visible on the interior of the cabin, I'd rather not see staples....so is just gluing sufficient?

Thank you for the help.

John

[QueticoBill]

I'm planning just glue and probably a pin nailer to hold it while glue sets. Also not planning any framing other than perimeter and single seam, foam between. I am planning 1/4" ply, but 1/8" would work as well.

[Juneaudave]

I would think glue would be fine as you can clamp the edges and put some weights in the center. In reality, I hardly ever see the floor of mine as the mattress covers it.

[swoody126]

TB glue works well when there is a really good joint

it has no gap filling qualities

IF you have a LOT OF WEIGHT to keep the inner surfaces forced together it will be just fine

any point/area where the surfaces aren't tight wont bond

this is where gap filling bonding agents ike epoxy n PL Premium 3x shine

TB dries whereas epoxy and PL Premium 3x cure

the differences are the resulting from DRY vs CURE

DRYING involves the evaporation of moisture resulting in shrinkage

CURING is when the entire volume/weight of a substance remains the same during the process like epoxy or expands like in the case of PL Premium 3x

if you go with TB make sure to moisten(damp rag) both surfaces AND slather the stuff on bothsurfaces to be joined to prevent joint starving from lack of adequate glue

BON CHANCE

sw

[noseoil]

We used Titebond, weights & a pin-tacker to put the floors in place. Once the glue sets up over night, it's good to go & ready to finish top & bottom.

At that point, we picked up the mounting holes so when the build was finished, it was ready to be bolted in place. Makes it easier to see how things will be installed. Elevator bolts were used to fasten the deck in place (counter-bore was ground from an old speed-bor type of drill bit) but it's nice to know the bolts will line up properly once the build is ready to fasten to the frame.

[Capebuild]

Just a follow up. I just completed adhering the bottom layer of floor ply to the frame. I wound up using PL3X. I can see the issue with using that is the stuff is so thick and viscous it's difficult to get a good surface to surface contact. Luckily had a lot of clamps to help but still wound up with a slight (less than a 1/16") space. I suppose the downside of using Titebond is that both surfaces would need to be coated. I think maybe when I go to apply the top side of the floor I might kind of squeegee it out a bit to reduce the height as opposed to just leaving it straight out of the tube in a back and forth zig zag pattern, which is what I did with the current application.

IMG_5345.JPG (135.95 KiB) Viewed 902 times

[Bezoar]

I used pinking shears to cut old motel key cards in half and it makes 2 free PL 3X squeegees!

[tony.latham]

I suppose the downside of using Titebond is that both surfaces would need to be coated.

Why both? For walls and floor sheathing, I just slop Titebond on with a paintbrush. (and use Titebond 3 to give me more open time.) I'm not concerned with squeeze out inside.



Tony