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Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 4:44 am
by GarthB
I am nearing the end of my build and I've begun wondering how others have mounted their license plate to the body of their teardrop in a way that the screw holes are sealed while still allowing removal and replacement of the plate later on? I am attaching the plate to the hatch, not the steel frame. It seems as though using a sealant like ProFlex in each of the holes would make it difficult to remove/replace the screws cleanly later on. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking this.

Thanks for the help!

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 5:16 am
by QueticoBill
Lots of brackets that can be permanently attached that the plate mounts to. Is this under a taillight or separate plate light?

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 5:58 am
by Tom&Shelly
GarthB wrote:I am nearing the end of my build and I've begun wondering how others have mounted their license plate to the body of their teardrop in a way that the screw holes are sealed while still allowing removal and replacement of the plate later on? I am attaching the plate to the hatch, not the steel frame. It seems as though using a sealant like ProFlex in each of the holes would make it difficult to remove/replace the screws cleanly later on. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking this.

Thanks for the help!


Blocking in the hatch, and then wood screws to hold a license plate frame. I used small scraps of butyl tape to keep water from penetrating the wood screw holes.

Tom

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 7:14 am
by swoody126
any time i have need for a pivot point or location where a fastener is likely to be removed n replaced in wood i drill an oversized hole and plug it w/ thickened epoxy

in thicker panels small stainless fasteners(nails) are inserted into the edges of the holes to hold the pox in place

in panels that are thinner the epoxified holes are sheathed w/ 6oz cloth which gets faired and finished

the ultimate hole needed can then be drilled thru the epoxy w/o fear of water intrusion into the inner edges of the panel

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just an option

sw

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 7:32 am
by western traveler
GarthB wrote:I am nearing the end of my build


How sweet is that!!! :applause:

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 8:36 am
by tony.latham
I like Swoody's suggestion of drilling it out and filling with thickened epoxy.

Image

Mine, of course, are sealed with a small squirt of poly varnish from a syringe and I'm fine with it.

Tony

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 8:48 am
by TimC
License plate on a teardrop? Who needs that? :lol:

JK... WI doesn't require trailers below 3k lbs to be registered. I did anyways but I don't display unless I am going to a foreign state (other than WI or MI).

Little ball of butyl tape does the trick.

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 11:21 am
by saltydawg
My license plate is attached to a small access hatch for the plumbing access on the rear sink. I used the led license plate light thingies to have a light on the plate. The only issue is they are not removable due the wiring.

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 2:10 pm
by twisted lines
TimC wrote:License plate on a teardrop? Who needs that? :lol:



I will not be using one, but the light is required in all 50, Or 52 :thinking:

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2021 7:21 pm
by GarthB
Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I definitely have a few options to consider. :thinking:

Re: Mounting License Plate

PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2021 9:56 pm
by GarthB
Figured I'd post a follow up in regards to which route I ended up choosing. Not sure if anyone has tried this option before, but I decided to go with hanger screws. They have wood threads on one end and machine screw threads on the other. I screwed four of them into the hatch so that I could use a nylon lock nut or a cap nut, like I have shown, to hold the license plate and bracket down. I like the cap nuts because they should protect the 10-24 threads well over the years.

I predrilled each of the holes and made sure to use a healthy amount of polyurethane sealant in and around each hole.

Image

Thanks again for all of the help and feedback everybody.