Is there a better replacement for RV roof trim on roof seams

[williaty]

I've got a commercially built squaredrop that I've been incrementally rebuilding to make it closer to what I want and also to improve the build standard. It started leaking from the roof at the end of last fall and the crazy warm weather this week has me trying to reseal the roof. The roof currently is 1/4" ply on the inside, 1.5" of styrofoam, and then a thin aluminum skin on the outside. Since it's a 6x10 trailer, I've got the edges/corners plus two transverse seams to deal with. The factory setup is that the corners and the two seams have aluminum extrusions covering them, screwed into the framing down their center. Then a vinyl insert covers the screw heads. To be water tight, the RV trim has to be caulked both at the outside edges of the aluminum extrusions where they rest against the aluminum skin of the trailer and also at the seam between the vinyl insert and the aluminum extrusion. After doing my best to scrape out the existing degraded silicone caulking, I'm replacing it with Lexel, since I've had very good luck with it on my house. However, this is a TON of work and I have no interest in doing this yearly!

Is there a better product that I can replace this all with? I'd love to rip off the RV trim extrusions and just cover the skin seams in something more permanent. The only thing I've come up with is making the camper a fiberglass hat to wear and that just seems like a ton of work. If I'm going to put that much into it, I might as well just build a foamie exactly the way that I want it. Is there some product I can switch to that makes this a non-issue?

[mtbikernate]

my trailer is VERY similar. Not sure if it's the same mfr or not, but there are a couple out there making similar products.

my understanding is that anytime sealant is used, it's essentially considered a maintenance item and you're going to need to do some TLC on it periodically. ESPECIALLY on the roof. And the more time it spends outside with the UV damage and the temp/humidity swings causing wear and tear, the more frequently you have to attend to it. That's why WeeRoll makes their trailer roofs like an upside-down tub.

https://www.weeroll.com/gladiator

I don't agree with their stance on offering zero warranty whatsoever if you put a roof vent/fan in one, but I get that avoiding such a thing cuts down on caulk maintenance on the roof and the eliminates the potential for roof leaks.

My friends who have been living in their 5th wheel for the past couple years while their house was built have been treating all seams as ANNUAL maintenance items. Sealant, rubber seals on their slides, etc. It's a pretty big job. It's a big reason why I park my trailer in my garage. That has VASTLY increased the lifespan of my caulk and rubber seals. I'm at 5yrs of ownership on mine and my caulk is good (last checked it over this winter), and the only seals I've replaced are the ones on my tongue box lid.

[Graniterich]

I swear by lexel!

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[dmdc411]

When building my td, the sealant, was put between each lap joint, under the trim, and each fastener. Lots "O" cleanup! So plan ahead! Had lots of masking tape, rags, alcohol (for clean up!! lol!) Not a leak in 9 years. But also, my td sits in my 3rd stall unless it's being used!

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[tony.latham]

After doing my best to scrape out the existing degraded silicone caulking, I'm replacing it with Lexel, since I've had very good luck with it on my house. However, this is a TON of work and I have no interest in doing this yearly!

One of the reasons I quit using silicone is that nothing likes to stick to where it's been --even silicone-- after it's removed. Make sure you scrub with acetone before applying the Lexel.

But... you shouldn't have to do it ever again. Not unless there's something else going on.



Tony