Home Builder's Shop Manual Done!!

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Postby BILLYL » Sun Oct 02, 2005 5:17 pm

Steve-

Sign me up for one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you need a hand editing it let me know.

Bill
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Postby jim7310 » Wed Oct 12, 2005 12:02 pm

Steve,

I would seriously consider offering a PDF download in addition to a CD. Your are not likely to be selling hundreds of copies daily so I really can't see that you would have a problem with bandwidth (unless your ISP is very restrictive). The advantage of the PDF download (like Kruffle Creek) is you do not have to make and mail CDs and your clients get the manual NOW (instant gratification). Just my $0.02 worth.

Jim
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Postby GregB » Wed Oct 12, 2005 1:35 pm

I will purchase a copy as well. Your work is impressive.

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Home Builder's Manual

Postby rooster » Thu Oct 13, 2005 2:25 am

Steve, Add my name the the many...Will need it for my next tear.

Jim, :thinking:
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Postby mexican tear » Thu Oct 13, 2005 11:30 am

me too

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Postby mikeschn » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:23 pm

Me too Steve,

Just cause! :lol:

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby Chris C » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:29 pm

Steve,

Surely you plan to give all those putting in orders in advance a discount, don't you? :lol: You know, like discount advance tickets to Bluegrass festivals? (Oh well, it was just a thought........and a good one at that!)
Chris :D

The tension between what is good enough and what is beyond that creates the space for character to become our work.

Teardrop Trailer Build Pictures: http://tinyurl.com/px5cd
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Great Idea!

Postby tsunami38 » Sat Oct 22, 2005 7:17 am

Hi Steve, I'm new to this forum and am also new to the Teardrop trailers. I also have the Kuffel Comet plans and was considering using wood, glass, and West System Epoxy on my Teardrop build.
I live in Bay City, MI, the home of West System Epoxy, so it would be a sin to use another product other than West. Your Teardrop looks great by the way.
I was wondering why you didn't use a lighter weight glass, one that the weave would not be seen after coating with epox, or did the 6 oz. work alright? If I remember correctly, when I built my DN class iceboat I was using .5 glass to protect the wood.

Once again Steve, great looking Teardrop! :applause:
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MeToo!!

Postby BobAmos » Sat Oct 22, 2005 7:17 pm

Looks like I had better jump on the band wagon too. Count me in. :D
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Re: Great Idea!

Postby Steve Frederick » Sat Oct 22, 2005 8:37 pm

tsunami38 wrote: I was wondering why you didn't use a lighter weight glass, one that the weave would not be seen after coating with epox, or did the 6 oz. work alright? If I remember correctly, when I built my DN class iceboat I was using .5 glass to protect the wood.

On the Stripper, I used 6-oz 'glass, and had no trouble with the weave showing. The heavy cloth does use a lot of epoxy though. I used 3-oz on both of the 'Diners, also with little trouble. less epoxy too! I'm starting two more tears to be sold in the spring, and will use 3-oz on the roof, and the joint between the roof/wall. I'm using 'glass as a mechanical element to bond the roof to the walls. I don't use any trim. Exterior walls will get 2 or 3 coats of epoxy, then the whole camper will get 4 or more sprayed coats of spar varnish.
Blessings, Steve
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Re: Great Idea!

Postby Paulyboy » Thu Oct 27, 2005 3:22 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:
tsunami38 wrote: I was wondering why you didn't use a lighter weight glass, one that the weave would not be seen after coating with epox, or did the 6 oz. work alright? If I remember correctly, when I built my DN class iceboat I was using .5 glass to protect the wood.

On the Stripper, I used 6-oz 'glass, and had no trouble with the weave showing. The heavy cloth does use a lot of epoxy though. I used 3-oz on both of the 'Diners, also with little trouble. less epoxy too! I'm starting two more tears to be sold in the spring, and will use 3-oz on the roof, and the joint between the roof/wall. I'm using 'glass as a mechanical element to bond the roof to the walls. I don't use any trim. Exterior walls will get 2 or 3 coats of epoxy, then the whole camper will get 4 or more sprayed coats of spar varnish.

Steve, I've got a question for you. After reading this comment, I wonder if you've considered using automotive clearcoat? I used some leftover up on some small woodworking projects, ones that I had planned to varnish the same weekend that I replaced and painted sheetmetal on my car. I figured, why not use the leftover cleAR ON THE wood, instead of dumping it in the can? So far, it's held up as good on the wood as the car! And it's nit yellowing, like spar varnish will do.
If I knew then what I know now, I'd be older than I was when I was that dumb!
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Re: Great Idea!

Postby Steve Frederick » Thu Oct 27, 2005 3:44 pm

Paulyboy wrote:Steve, I've got a question for you. After reading this comment, I wonder if you've considered using automotive clearcoat? I used some leftover up on some small woodworking projects, ones that I had planned to varnish the same weekend that I replaced and painted sheetmetal on my car. I figured, why not use the leftover cleAR ON THE wood, instead of dumping it in the can? So far, it's held up as good on the wood as the car! And it's nit yellowing, like spar varnish will do.

Well Paulyboy!!
I'm SKEERED!! I have a big compressor, an HVLP gun, still in the box, and a nice shop with good ventilation. But why don't I try it???
I'm gonna practice on some srcap before I finish the next two tear projects,(to get underway after Thanksgiving). Lots of folks are uncertain of the durability of spar varnish. They seem to accept automotive clear as more durable, so, I guess I'll try it, even though I know that my two cedar kayaks look as nice today as they did when I finished them in spar 4-5 years ago.
After reading the "How do you finish wood" thread, I'm ready to try spraying varnish for the interior and cabinets. I'll also spray the frames, that should get me warmed up to clearcoat!! ;)
Blessings, Steve
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Postby Chris C » Thu Oct 27, 2005 3:53 pm

Don't fret, Steve. HVLP is easy to use. 8) If you've sprayed finishes in the past, you'll love this. In the first place, you won't have to live in a fog as you do with a typical unit. It is much easier to see if you are keeping a wet coat. It's great.....................................that said, I'd love to have an HVLP outfit myself! :lol:
Chris :D

The tension between what is good enough and what is beyond that creates the space for character to become our work.

Teardrop Trailer Build Pictures: http://tinyurl.com/px5cd
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Postby Steve Frederick » Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:01 pm

Chris C wrote:Don't fret, Steve. HVLP is easy to use. 8) If you've sprayed finishes in the past, you'll love this. In the first place, you won't have to live in a fog as you do with a typical unit. It is much easier to see if you are keeping a wet coat. It's great.....................................that said, I'd love to have an HVLP outfit myself! :lol:

My experience thus-far...Cans!! :oops:
Blessings, Steve
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Postby Chris C » Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:04 pm

Oh, then you are starting at the TOP!!!!! Good equipment. You'll never have to go through what many of us have endured for the past XX years! Good for you! Don't worry, HVLP is easy!
Chris :D

The tension between what is good enough and what is beyond that creates the space for character to become our work.

Teardrop Trailer Build Pictures: http://tinyurl.com/px5cd
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