Long time lurker with a New design

[mikefowler]

Well Went to the DAM Gathering and met a few of you and got a bunch of ideas. I want all my trim aluminum to be black. Should I 1.)anodize it 2.) Powder Coat it or 3.) Just paint it? - Cost wise it is going to be a Wash. Tell me what you think!

[dhazard]

This is black Auto paint on the trim...

[mikefowler]

DHAZARD Did you have to do any special prep work?
I am Kicking myself in the pants I was within inches of your tear at the Dam Gathering. Wasn't really thinking of trim till I got home.

[dhazard]

I cleaned it with acetone and sprayed it with three light coats of Bulldog.

(Same as the rest of the trailer.)

[Dean in Eureka, CA]

Mike,
By chance, did yaa happen to notice my powder coated blue glass racks on my glass truck???...
Yaa... The ones with tons of rust happening???
I'm actually advertising for a local powder coating company.

The stuff started flaking off in big chunks about a week after I got it back from them.
Obviously, they didn't prep the metal.
They wanted to charge me again for a do over...
I gave 'em two choices... A free do over, or I'd be happy to do some advertising for them...

And I'm a good little advertiser for 'em, I give 'em a plug every chance I get...
That's right folks!!!... Pacific Powder Coating located in Arcata, CA :thumbsup:

Powder coating is a hard finish, but it's only as good as the prep job prior to the application and I'm pretty sure you'd have to have any bends pre bent beforehand.
Personally I'd stay away from that...
Anodized aluminum is likely to fracture the anodized surface if you have any tight radius' if starting from straight anodized pieces...
Anodizing after the fact seems like it would be costly to me...
I'd go with BullDog and Paint... And shoot any bare aluminum with BullDog and clear, so you don't get any oxidizing... Even anodized aluminum will oxidize, at least where I live...
(Fog City)

[mikefowler]

!Well the siding on the house is DONE!
That means "TEAR DROP TIME"
Started the unboxing today at 6:00pm -
Worked on the trailer till 11:30 got it all together with only One trip to Home Depot (Needed some class 8 bolts to replace the tractor pins)
Here are pics of the Unboxing:

Trailer as it has been sitting Since 4/24



hooked it up to the Scion to see how it will look

WELL we are going downhill
When I was assembling the tongue I just knew it was going to be to high.

OK-Options
A. Raise hitch - Already raised 3" - Don't Like the Idea
B. Go to 8" tires - Really Don't Like the idea.
C. flop the hitch mount over to the bottom and use some tube and class 8 bolts to remount the receiver - Best Idea SO far
D. Got any ideas?

Tomorrow the floor!

[Miriam C.]

Yep. Go to TSC or U Haul and get a hitch that is intended to raise it. Now get back to work.

[Tear Les]

WELL we are going downhill
When I was assembling the tongue I just knew it was going to be to high.

OK-Options
A. Raise hitch - Already raised 3" - Don't Like the Idea
B. Go to 8" tires - Really Don't Like the idea.
C. flop the hitch mount over to the bottom and use some tube and class 8 bolts to remount the receiver - Best Idea SO far
D. Got any ideas?

Tomorrow the floor!

Kinda depends on how low it is. Judging from the photos it looks like the easiest fix would just be a hi-rise hitch ball like this one from Northern:

Hitch Ball

What is your objection to a taller drawbar (ball hitch mount)? It looks like the top of the ball is still lower than the top of the rear bumper and under the lower edge of the lift hatch (course I can't see it in person).

I use the Rapid Hitch which is an ajustable billet aluminum beauty. It's not really inexpensive but it's got two hitch balls (the one I have has 2" and 2-5/16" but you can get 1-7/8" and 2") and I never have go looking for the right drawbar or ball size.

[Joanne]

Mike,

I'm with you on option C.

If you can redesign the A frame tongue so a piece of 2x2 (or whatever is the correct size) fits underneath the tongue, then the coupler mounted on that, you would be close to level. Before committing to rebuilding the tongue, I would try removing the coupler and clamping it to the bottom of the tongue with C clamps or vise grips just to see where the trailer would ride. You might be able to "tweek" your design at that point to get it dead level.

Let us know how it turns out.

Joanne

[mikefowler]

Day two
Had to still cut the frame for axle clearance Before cut


After cut


The tool went thru like Butter!


Floor rough in.


Framing Connections With Pocket Jig
Screwed & Glued


Floor with Insulation & floor panel complete



QUESTION?
Should I just bolt the floor down or should I drill recesses for the bolt heads so the floor panel is flush with the trailer frame?



Tomorrow
Walls

[Miriam C.]

Wow! Lookin great Mike. If you can drill recesses I would. You can also put a long shim under the gap. I really don't like gaps.

GitRdun

[toypusher]

If you don't level it to the frame (recess bolts/shim low spots) then your floor will not be level. I ran into a problem with the bottom of my hatch closing and sealing correctly due to the crossmember being about 1/16" smaller than the side members of the HF trailer. To fix it, I put a piece of 1/2"wide x 1/16" thick AL in there as a filler.

[Esteban]

Wouldn't cutting plywood, as thick as the offset in the trailer frame, into long shims be an easy and cheap solution to help level the floor? Counter sink for the bolts. Then use black roofing goo, or your waterproofing of choice, to cover the road side. You're moving along well with your build.

[bledsoe3]

You could use a forstner bit to make reliefs for the bolt head to set in to. I know you're trying to build light so this would not add any weight to your build.

[mikefowler]

Hey Jim- Great minds must think alike!

Had already drilled the holes With...
That right you guessed it a 3/4 forstner bit!