Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Please help!
I cannot find the "1/8" x 1" angle cleats" you used to rivet the aluminum frames.
I searched on the websites you recommended, https://www.hansonrivet.com and www.trimlok.com, but cannot locate them.
Do you custom build the angle cleats?
Thanks

FYI:
I started building my first aluminum foamie trailer, which was inspired by your incredible engineering skills, thanks again for your help!

You're welcome, Joshua.

Hope that you can use some of the ideas & methods.

Fred

Hi Coffedude,

The cleats are made from 1x1x1/8 angle using a drill press w/fence & cut to one inch length with a horizontal band saw.

Pictures required of your new trailer.

Fred

Hi Fred,

I attached some photos of my 6' x 9' steel trailer chassis build, which has plywood flooring.

I originally started riveting the aluminum frame with rivets I found on amazon, only
to realize the amazon rivets are the wrong size, so the corner bracket is loose.

I just purchased rivets from Hanson supply, they arrived in the mail today, and I will proceed to use Hanson rivets only!

I have a rivet grip range, and will purchase aluminum square tubing, and cut the squares as you suggested.
I will make sure the aluminum cleats, and frame thickness matches the rivet grip range.

Thanks for the tip on making angled cleats!

(The cleats are made from 1x1x1/8 angle using a drill press w/fence & cut to one inch length with a horizontal band saw.)

Hanson supply Rivet dimensions:
blind aluminum rivet closed end with steel mandrel
rivet size: 3/16 "
rivet grip: .313 - .375

Aluminum square tubing dimensions:
16 gage (1/16") x 1" x 1" 6063-T52 square tubing


Thanks for your expert advice, I will try to upload photos soon!
Sandro

I applied rivet PASD606H to aluminum cleats, with good results!
The framing has a solid grip, but I am still able to move it slightly with my hand.
Does a well placed rivet allow for some slight movement by hand?
attached are photos for reference:

I feel like this is a stupid question, but I've been googling like crazy and can't find an answer... How do I know if the aluminum frame I've designed for my camper can be riveted like yours or if it needs to be welded?

I'm going down a wormhole of homebuilt aircraft build logs to try and figure this out!

I'm thinking I'll just rivet it and hope for the best

Only one more question (I think)... why did you choose a steel mandrel instead of aluminum?

Hopefully I can finish my 3d model, post a thread asking for a design review, and then go to HF for an air compressor and rivet gun to get started. I'm hoping to build this in my apartment... regardless of what happens, I'm sure I'll learn something!

Sandro,

Sounds like you're OK. Make sure to use the correct drill bit & make sure the rivet head is seated before pulling the trigger. Sometimes the rivet needs to be tapped down into place.

Are you constructing a frame & then attaching sheet aluminum?

Joshua,

The Northern Lite construction type is called a semi-monocoque. The outer skin is stressed to help make the connections & structure strong. Some race cars & airplanes would be examples.

My camera failed at the beginning, so I lost pictures of making the walls on the bench. But here is the written description of how it was done:

The cabin is constructed using: .063" (1/16") 3003-H14 sheet aluminum. 16 gage (1/16") x 1" 6063-T52 square tubing. 1/8" x 1" angle cleats. 3M 4919F VHB tape. 3/16" *closed end* aluminum structural rivets (575# shear - 840# tensile).

The walls are made on the work table, outer film protected surface down. The side plan is layed out on the inner face of the sheet. The curve of the roof, window & door openings are cut. The rivet holes are punched or drilled. The hoop is cold formed by hand over a wooden buck. The tube framing is cut & secured in place with tape. The cleats are installed. The assembly is turned outside up. The tubing is drilled through the premade holes in the outer sheet & riveted with a pneumatic riveter.
The walls are installed to the steel floor frame with tape & rivets along the bottom. The ten vertical wall frame members are cleated to the top of the floor frame.

Steel mandrel rivets are much stronger & they break off down inside the rivet unseen.

Fred

Hi Fred,
Yes, I am constructing a frame first, then attaching aluminum sheets last.
Thanks again!
sandro

Thanks Fred! That helps

alaska teardrop wrote:Joshua,

The Northern Lite construction type is called a semi-monocoque. The outer skin is stressed to help make the connections & structure strong. Some race cars & airplanes would be examples.

My camera failed at the beginning, so I lost pictures of making the walls on the bench. But here is the written description of how it was done:

The cabin is constructed using: .063" (1/16") 3003-H14 sheet aluminum. 16 gage (1/16") x 1" 6063-T52 square tubing. 1/8" x 1" angle cleats. 3M 4919F VHB tape. 3/16" *closed end* aluminum structural rivets (575# shear - 840# tensile).

The walls are made on the work table, outer film protected surface down. The side plan is layed out on the inner face of the sheet. The curve of the roof, window & door openings are cut. The rivet holes are punched or drilled. The hoop is cold formed by hand over a wooden buck. The tube framing is cut & secured in place with tape. The cleats are installed. The assembly is turned outside up. The tubing is drilled through the premade holes in the outer sheet & riveted with a pneumatic riveter.
The walls are installed to the steel floor frame with tape & rivets along the bottom. The ten vertical wall frame members are cleated to the top of the floor frame.

Steel mandrel rivets are much stronger & they break off down inside the rivet unseen.

Fred

Hi Fred,
I have been building my first aluminum TD, I just want to say thanks again for your help!!
(I am having trouble finding suppliers for 6 foot wide aluminum skin, so I will just glue and rivet 4 foot skin pieces.)
Attached is a image of my framing work so far...
Thanks again
Sandro

Time to start your build thread, Sandro. With larger pictures!

I'm about to start re-reading this build for about the third or fourth time. (This time I think I'll take notes.) Such a clean, uncluttered look. The design, materials and methods just meld together perfectly. Top ten all time. IMHO

Fred, if you still have access, any chance you could re-scan or re-photograph your wonderful drawings so we might see them in focus?

Thank you for sharing your ideas and work here.

Mike

Thank you Mike for appreciating the work.

My IT expert tells me that the files are too large to post clearly on the forum.

If you personal messege me with your e-mail address, I will send you readable drawing files.

Fred