auto mechanic help for slowcowboy!

[MtnDon]

Could be the thermostat is going wide open and staying there. Was it ever changed from the factory one? Did the vehicle overheat at all recently?

I ask that as there are aftermarket thermostats that have a "fail safe" where they lock wide open if the engine gets too hot. Then they need to be replaced.

[Redneck Teepee]

Process of elimination Slow, I'm sure living where you do it's got anti-freeze in it, start with a cold engine and radiator and pull the radiator cap, look and see if you are getting immediate circulation thru the radiator, if so the stat is stuck open. Do you have a shutoff valve in the heater hose return line? if so those are a needle valve type usually and can plug, or could be a vacuum controlled switch valve in A/C equipped cars, shut it and reopen it if needle type, that may do the trick. Pull the heater hose between the valve and radiator return port, crimp the hose shut on the engine side, shut the valve or turn heater control off, start the motor and slowly open the valve or turn heater on to see if you have flow coming out of the heater core, heater cores do also plug. If your engine is not overheating this is where I would start....Just my 2 cents worth.

[Juneaudave]

I'm not an auto mechanic, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night! Sounds like you might just be low on antifreeze to me. I would check the level, and if that's not it, change the thermostat.
Good luck...

[48Rob]

I'm with Dave.

Low on coolant.

Rob

[working on it]

Could be the thermostat is going wide open and staying there. Was it ever changed from the factory one? Did the vehicle overheat at all recently?

I ask that as there are aftermarket thermostats that have a "fail safe" where they lock wide open if the engine gets too hot. Then they need to be replaced.

Though my experience with Fords is limited, and I have never seen a working temp gauge show stone cold (even with thermostat completely removed- I drove my Chevelle to work like that once, heater still worked, before I turned it into a race-only car), I have a couple of thoughts here. If you are driving the '95 FORD EXPLORER, as shown in your signature, it is known to have two heater faults that are common. The heater control valve on the hoses to the heater core or its' actuator,

valve.jpg (7.84 KiB) Viewed 1437 times

or the "blend door"

dorman door.jpg (11.89 KiB) Viewed 1437 times

or its' actuator.

blenddooractuator.jpg (17.79 KiB) Viewed 1437 times

Or the blend door could be sticking closed because it is cracked ('95 doors were ABS plastic, known for cracking). Here's a link to a forum with a fix http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294140 or there are several on YOU-TUBE. I have had the opposite problem with my '04 Chevy 2500HD pickup....blows hot in summer! The blend door actuator has opened the heat door 3 or 4 times, but not a big problem...I just pull over, turn the ignition off for 15 seconds, and restart. The blend door resets to normal. Hasn't happened for the last 5 years, so I never replaced the part. See, even Chevies have (some) problems too.

[doug hodder]

having gone through this in Dec....It was the thermostat on my Ford Ranger 4.0L V6. If you're full on fluid and can't get any heat showing on the gauge it's stuck open, better than stuck shut...chances are that's it, easy change out and under 9$ in parts. If it shows plenty of heat on the gauge and no heat in the heater, plugged core. Just what I experienced. It would heat up at an idle, not like it normally did, but as soon as I started to drive, the cold air would hit the radiator and temp dropped to nothing on the gauge. Doug

[rowerwet]

quick test, block most of the radiator with a cardboard box, if you have heat while driving, it is the thermostat. Had the same issue with my second ranger after the wax pellet melted.

[Redneck Teepee]

thankyou very much guys! I apperciate it. yes cold air hiting the radator. called wyoming wind and wind chill and way below zero in temps!

thanks a lot guys and I am going to get a look at that coolent leval and proply swap thermostats this weekend!

slow

Just wondering if you ever resolved your problem Slow? Hope all is fixed.

[craig113]

Sounds like low coolant. If it looks full start it while cold with the rad cap off, might be a big air bubble in the lines or block. I have also found one ford where the fins in the water pump were missing and it had poor circulation and no heat. If changing the water pump always change the thermostat at the same time.

[Lesbest]

I might be late to the party, but here goes. The clue is the guage starts to move-you start to get heat, the guage goes cold, and you get no heat. Low on coolant-if the tip of the temp sender is not wet ( in coolant) it won't read accurately. If the sender is not wet you will not have coolant in the heater core either. Fill the system with it running so you can burp any air pockets out of it, watch the thermostat open and top off the radiator. Feel the upper hose as the thermostat opens, the hose should be uncomfortable to hold when fully open. When your satisfied the system is full, put the cap on tight, and start looking to see where the coolant leaked to.

It won't evaporate so it has to be a leak, or it's going out the tailpipe (head gasket). Pull the dipstick for the transmission, if it looks like a strawberry milkshake the trans cooler is leaking, and if that happens you usually have trans fluid in the radiator too. The coolant hoses will be soft and slimy.

Hopefully it's a loose hose clamp and your back in business.

Hope this helps, Les