Only 110v

[Creamcracker]

I intend running only 110v through the trailer - at this stage i just don't want to mess with what is needed for the 12v system. Basically shore side power and then cables from the inlet to a couple of wallmounts to run the toaster/tv/and a couple of lights.
Does anyone see a problem with this -- the electrical aspect of the build is the one that I am least familiar with and I want to keep it as simple as possible.
Philip

[toypusher]

No real problems that I can see. You may want to use stranded wire to both make it easier to route through the tear and to possibly prevent cracks in the wire from vibration over time.

I'm not sure, but 14GA for lights and 12GA for outlets should be about right. The electricians can tell you for sure. You might want to post a more exact list of what you will have, so that the experts can tell you more about wire size and breaker size needed.

JMO

[Miriam C.]

I intend running only 110v through the trailer - at this stage i just don't want to mess with what is needed for the 12v system. Basically shore side power and then cables from the inlet to a couple of wallmounts to run the toaster/tv/and a couple of lights.
Does anyone see a problem with this -- the electrical aspect of the build is the one that I am least familiar with and I want to keep it as simple as possible.
Philip

If you are not using a breaker panel you might invest in one of the power cord options that has a built in breaker and even a built in GFCI. You can also make the first outlet a GFCI. Little added protection.

[Creamcracker]

invest in one of the power cord options that has a built in breaker and even a built in GFCI. You can also make the first outlet a GFCI. Little added protection.
not sure what this would be like -- you mean an extension cord with a surge protector like you use for a computer?
Philip

[Miriam C.]

There are power cords that have breakers built in and GFCI. A surge protector only protects against surges in power. It won't protect you if there is a short or grounding issues.

Check this out.
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... 558#194558

[britlynz]

Some things to think about...

For 110VAC

Use a breaker.

Keep the wire from the shore to the breaker box as short as possible.

I like 14-2 Romex from most applications with 15A protection. The Romex is a sheathed cable that will resist abrasive wear inside walls. If you run cable under the chassis, use flex conduit with waterproof seals.

Keep microwaves on their own circuit.

Place any inverter before the breaker panel so that you have protection when it's in operation.

For 12VDC

ALWAYS use fuse or breaker protection and protect for the smallest gauge wire that is in excess of 18 inches.

I personally recommend only using manually resettable breakers if you choose breakers. There are too many design considerations involved to make type 1 or 2 re-settables it worth the effort.

Pay attention to polarity on breakers.

Remember to consider the gauge of your return or ground wires when planning protection.

Converter/Charger outputs may require protection too.