Fuses for what ever I pull.

[Ron Dickey]

I am about to get the truck wired so I can check the wires on the trailer. I have desided rether then put the fuses on the trailer I will put them on the truck just before the plug so it I do blow something on any trailer I pull it will not effect the wires in the truck.

I have a RV fuse holder and plan to get a box to hold it in and attach it to the bottom rear of the truck.

Ron D.
Los Osos, CA

[Phil & Ningning]

That's fine for the highway lighting, if you want to do it that way.
Cabin and galley electrical is another matter. It should be a separate system. If it is 12 volts, you may have a trailer battery that should have it's own protections. If you run 110, of course that will require it's own protective devices as well.

[fornesto]

Have you thought of doing 4 in line fuses right near the connection to the truck. I agree. Most new cars have made it very difficult to change fuses.

[Chuck Craven]

If you have a short it will take out both fuses. So the fuse you put in will not help you. If it does blow your trailer fuse how will you know that you don't have trailer lights?


Chuck

[Ron Dickey]

The Idea is so you do not bluw the truck lights and at least have something glowing when you stop etc.

[Alphacarina]

The Idea is so you do not bluw the truck lights and at least have something glowing when you stop etc.

Then yes, your idea is a good one

Make the fuses as small as you can while still having the capacity to power the trailer lights - 5 or 7.5 amps or so would be good

That way should a short on your trailer cause you to blow a fuse, it may not take out the 15 amp fuse in the truck . . . . so you might still have truck tail lights, though it's STILL possible to blow them both - Fuses melt FAST and the 15 could melt just as fast as the 5

An even better idea though is just to do a good job with the wiring on the trailer, so as not to have a short in the first place . . . . then you probably don't need to bother with the extra fuses anyway