Modulite Trailer Light Power Modules

[pbb]

I need some advice.

I have a Subaru Forester and have an OEM wiring harness which has a 4 pin flat connector. The wiring harness is functioning correctly. However, not enough "juice" seems to be getting to the tail lights on the trailer.

I've corresponded with Cary at Camp Inn (the manufacturer of my trailer) about this, and it seems that the Subaru itself may not be putting out enough power to handle the car lights and the trailer lights.

I was therefore thinking of installing a Modulite module (made by Draw Tite) which taps the car's battery for power.

According to the maker of Modulite, it:

"Powers the trailer's stop, turn and tail/running lights directly from the tow vehicle's battery"

"Virtually eliminates draw on the vehicle's taillight circuits"

Has anyone had any experience installing or using one of these? It looks kind of tricky, since you need to run the wire underneath the car.

Thanks!

[BrwBier]

I just finished installing mine about an hour ago. They are really quite easy and work wonderful. I had a problem with my lights even after doing everything to prevent it. It turned out to need the setup you are talking about. The only wire that needs to go to the front of the car is the battery positive wire. The other wires, right turn, left turn and stop are all at the back of the car. You will be able to pick up these wires where the OEM harness is located. I would try to run the B+ wire inside the car (that is what I did). You need to find a rubber grommet on the bulkhead such as where the hood release cable goes through. Pock a hole and pull the wire through. After that remove the sill plates at the left side doors. Most cars you will find a harness running down that side of the car. Follow this harness to the back of the car (you will have to lift the carpet, pull on the bottom of the side panels) wedge some soft stuff like rags under the edge just enough to get the wire hidden. If you don't see any screws in a part that needs to be moved it most likely has plastic barbed push fasteners around the edges. Just go slow and pull evenly and you should be OK. Your goal is to just make enough room to hide the wire along the side. It sounds worst than it is and if you just study the panels it should be easy enough to hide the wire. I can check on the computer at work on Monday if you need more specific instructions.
Brwbier

[mexican tear]

My Ford truck uses the same thing to power the trailer lights for obvious reasons. Go for it, it is a great idea.

kai

[pbb]

Thanks for the advice, folks!

I'll order the Modulite module and the wiring kit and plunge ahead next weekend. I was a little nervous about running the wire inside the car, but it makes good sense if it can be hidden. I'll start studying the innards of the Subaru right now.

[BrwBier]

One thing I forgot, My kit said something about a fuse holder but it was not there. If yours is not there, get a fuse holder and put it inline right after the B+ connection. The B+ connection should be made at the junction block of fuse box. Every car I have seen has a B+ terminal at that point. It will be a large red wire mounted on a stud. Some times in the fuse box, sometimes right next to it. This is the same as connecting to the battery only better. That is the pourpose of this stud. If possible never violate the battery connection.
Brwbier