My wiring plans

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby toypusher » Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:04 pm

Steve,

Yes, if you refer back to the original post, Joanne started with 3 drawings. (Thank you Joanne) I just borrowed one of them and made few modifications. You can as Joanne also, but you definitely have my permission to do what ever you want with the drawing. Just glad that it seems to be right and hope it will help any and all that want it as a guide. :thumbsup:
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Postby toypusher » Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:08 pm

asianflava,

I planned a 120V 20amp breaker for the AC side. I am researching the one for the DC side to get the amps that I need, but am sure that I can find one soon. I will post a link (or appropriate info) when I find the right one. Bruce or Steve may be able to shed some more light on this.

Kerry
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Postby bdosborn » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:13 pm

toypusher wrote:I think that this is the 'final' on how I want to do my wiring setup.
Kerry


Kerry,

The AC side needs a tweak. Only the hot wire goes through the breaker (like its shown on the fuses). I can size all the wires and fuses if you'd like.
Bruce
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Re: 12VDC schematics

Postby bdosborn » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:20 pm

DestinDave wrote:Anyone considering using 6VDC golf cart batteries? How would they appear in the schematic? Would I use the same 12VDC converter or charger or are there special chargers for 6VDC batteries? Two deep-cycle 6VDC batteries would provide a LOT more reserve than two 12VDC batteries and not an unreasonable higher cost.


Dave,

I'm going with golf cart batteries on mine. Once you connect them in series (+ to -) its one big 12V battery as far as a charger is concerned. I like the Trojan T-105. Its seems to be the hands down favorite with the big RV crowd for capacity and number of discharges.
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Postby bdosborn » Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:25 pm

asianflava wrote:I see that you have a breaker on the AC side and one on the DC side. Are circuit breakers (in general) made with different applications? Is there one for AC and another for DC, or does the same one do the job for both. I'm much more familiar with DC circuits than AC.


asianflava,

Most AC circuit breakers are dual listed for AC and DC. I'm using an automotive DC type circuit breaker on the battery of mine. It was only $3.50 at the auto store. I'm not sure if its listed for AC use. Its probably not since then it would have to be UL listed, etc.
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Venting

Postby Guy » Wed Feb 16, 2005 10:10 pm

Dear Bruce,

Keep in mind the need for a sealed, well-ventilated(to the outside), setup for the Trojan T-105.
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Guy
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Postby Joanne » Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:14 pm

[quote="bdosbornKerry,

The AC side needs a tweak. Only the hot wire goes through the breaker (like its shown on the fuses). I can size all the wires and fuses if you'd like.
Bruce[/quote]

Bruce,

I'm sorry that I didn't get back with you on sizing of my original drawing. I guess we should add wire and fuse sizes to that schematic as well.

Although my original schematic was designed to meet my needs, I like the way the shore powered version evolved as well. It's neat to see everyone add their input and the final product reflect all the improvements. It reminds me of the "Open Source" software efforts in the Linux environment. :applause: :thumbsup:

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Postby Joanne » Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:24 pm

Steve Frederick wrote:As a journeyman...POI-FECT!!! :thumbsup:That's how I would do it also!
I didn't put a/c in the stripper, but, I like your plan...Is it COPY-RIGHTED??? Er..WRITTEN??? :roll: :roll: If I put it in my book,:rofl: I'll give you credit!!! :shake hands:
Oh!! Wasn't this drawing, or a version, originally Joanne's??? :MLAS


The original version that I posted on my website has a copyright notice on the web page. I don't want to see it included on a CD sold on E-Bay without my permission! That said, if you write a book on teardrop building, I would be honored to see the drawing included. Heck, I'd buy the book just so I could say, "I drew that!". :lol:

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Postby toypusher » Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:20 am

Bruce,

Your right again, just not paying enough attention to the details :? . I knew that the hot was the only one, but had just made up the 3 wire to show that there was hot, neutral, and ground on the AC side. I also believe that you already gave me the sizing, but by all means please redo and I will redo the drawing to reflect the changes. Thanks for all your help.

Just a side note: I had recommended 3 graphics programs and was wondering if anyone out there had tried them. I also would recommend a program called '3D Blender' if you want to do 3D drawings and don't want to pay for a 3D program. It is free :applause: and there are lots of tutorials for it.

Kerry
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Postby toypusher » Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:56 am

Bruce,

Here's a link to what I think would be the perfect replacement for the fuses in the drawing. I want circuit breakers vs fuses. Please let me know what you think and what amps for each circuit

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/217_067

The PANEL MOUNT CIRCUIT BREAKERS in lower left corner.


Kerry
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Postby toypusher » Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:00 am

Another update drawing, did not want to show fuses when I want to use circuit breakers instead

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Last edited by toypusher on Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:01 pm

Can this drawing (well, the drawing with the fuses) be updated to show fuse sizes and wire sizes?

Mike...
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Postby toypusher » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:06 pm

Mike,

Sure, I am waiting for Bruce to give me his recommendations. However, as a general rule, I believe that 15 or 20 amps would be appropriate for most of the 12V circuits. The AC side will have a 30 amp for me and the GFIC will do most of the work anyway. I will update drawing(s) when I am more sure of the appropriate fuse/circuit breaker sizes and wire gage size.

Kerry
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Postby mikeschn » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:13 pm

Here's how I did it, but I would like to hear what Bruce has to say about wire sizes and fuse sizes... Actually Bruce does say, a couple posts below mine in this thread...
http://tnttt.com/viewto ... wire#11309

But the chart he included is not very clear. But he definitely said 14 gauge for the ciruits, and 12 gauge for the 12 v plugs. He didn't say what size fuses though...


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Re: Venting

Postby bdosborn » Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:19 pm

Guy wrote:Dear Bruce,

Keep in mind the need for a sealed, well-ventilated(to the outside), setup for the Trojan T-105.


Yup, that's why I'm putting them in a box on the tongue. I'll put some soffit vents in for venting with my main disconnect sticking through the side. Its amazing how corrosive battery gases are, I just as soon not have any in the trailer. Then if they do blow up, hopefully it will just scorch the side of the trailer. I'll put a cheap lid on it, kind of like the explosive hatch they put in hazardous storage areas. Its amazing how far you can over-analyze these little trailers. :)
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