What am I leaving out?

[IraRat]

This electrical thing has me scared. Here's a list of what I'm wiring, excluding the trailer's running lights.

I would appreciate it if something doesn't make sense, or if I left something out, you would let me know. 120V system only:

1) 1 line to air conditioner
2) 1 line to Fantastic
3) 2 lines to 2 wall switches
4) 2 lines from wall switches to lights
5) 2 lines to 2 plug receptacles
6) 1 line to lower galley for appliance power strip
7) 1 line to lower galley for future use
1 line to upper galley light
9) 2 lines to porch lights
10) 1 line each to 2 interior cabinets for future use

That's it. I think Does this seem like overkill? We're just talking 16 gauge wire, and onve the skins are up, that's about it.

--Ira

P.S. Isn't that weird? I didn't put that icon in above. Paren 8 must be the html code for that emoticon.

[Nitetimes]

If you are switching everything seperate you'll need seperate lines to each, if not you can daisy chain most of it.
First, don't use less than 14ga wire with 120v you stand a good chance of a meltdown. Second, I thought those 'fantastic vents' were 12v, did you get one in 120v?

[IraRat]

Everything except the cabin lights will be self-switching; those will be wired to the switches. On everything else, the switches will be in the units themselves, so I'm just thinking 16 gauge to each.

There's another company makes the fan in AC (Northern Breeze?). Don't recall, but I have to run that wire anyway, even if I go with something else. When it's time to frame that section, I'll decide for sure. That can be decided even after my interior roof is in, because I can frame and cut that at the same time.

I guess I could daisychain most of it. Never gave it much thought, and don't know exactly how. Maybe I'll draw a diagram and post later so you can tell me if I'm on the right track.

[Nitetimes]

On everything else, the switches will be in the units themselves, so I'm just thinking 16 gauge to each.

Well quit thinking that, it's a bad idea. 15 amp is about the smallest 120v breaker you can get and it should be used with 14ga wire. 16ga and smaller is generally used for 12v. Whether or not the lights are self switching has little to do with the size of the wire. Your A/C should definately be on a 15amp circuit.

[IraRat]

On everything else, the switches will be in the units themselves, so I'm just thinking 16 gauge to each.

Well quit thinking that, it's a bad idea. 15 amp is about the smallest 120v breaker you can get and it should be used with 14ga wire. 16ga and smaller is generally used for 12v. Whether or not the lights are self switching has little to do with the size of the wire. Your A/C should definately be on a 15amp circuit.

Got you, and Tom scolded me about this also. So...

I return the 16 gauge wire I bought, and buy 14 gauge solid copper. I configure my box with 4 15-amp breakers/circuits.

One circuit is dedicated to the air conditioning. Another to the switched interior lights. And the 3rd and 4th will be dedicated to the left and right sides of the trailer, where I will daisy-chain those devices with built-in switches (like the porch lights, power strips for the galley, etc.), and the receptacles.

Am I getting CLOSE here to understanding this?

I appreciate the patience Night. I wanna get this right the first time.

[IraRat]

How about this?

[Nitetimes]

Looks pretty much ok. A/C on sepereate circuit=good, recpts on seperate circuits also good, the lights on seperate circuits not neccesary unless the switches are in 2 different places and it's too hard to get the line wire to both. If both switches are going to be together you only need one line wire to the box for both switches. Keep in mind that you are drawing minimal power here, most houses are wired so that all the recepts in a room (sometimes more than one room)are on one breaker, so you really don't need a mess of breakers in a trailer. Even if you are running a microwave, fridge, tv, A/C and a few other things you still wouldn't need more than 4 or so. Keep the wiring as simple as possible and it will be much easier.

[Woody]

If you use marine circuit breakers, they go down to 10 amps, and technically are no more expensive that regular breakers. That is what I used in my new teardrop with no problems

[IraRat]

Thanks for the input guys.

Yeah, I went with the additional line(s) just so it would be easier to run the wires. The way I have it now, it's just a straight run on each side. I know I could probably run them anyway with one less line, but what the heck. I want easier for this.

Woody, what's the advantage of 10amp marine breakers over regular 15?

Also, is there a combo package they offer somewhere with the box and breakers, or do I buy the empty box and screw the breakers in myself?

[Woody]

IraRat,
the advantage of smaller breakers in circuit is in electronics protection in a marine enviroment. In a trailer it should provide the same protection for smaller amp load circuits. You asked if there were smaller circuit breakers and I provided the answer, there are. Marine panels are cosmetically better to look at in my opinion, than standard circuit breaker (house hold) panels. plus if you are trying to achieve a nautical look, why not use them for the look also. I have installed them in both of mine and it has the nautical look and feel I was trying to achieve. On the plus side, it is funny as hell, when people read the panel and it says "Bilge Pump" and they always ask" Bilge pump,why do you have a bilge pump?. I decided to leave the marine labels on it also, just for humor of it. The 12 vdc Six gang with fuse holders marine panels I get cost $19.99 at a marine hardware store down in Miami. The circuit breakers are from West Marine for the 120 vac side, they run about $15 - 17.00 ea. and the three and 6 gang cover panels run about $8- 15.00 ea.

[IraRat]

You've hopfully seen my other pst about that box which has different ratings, but...

A friend of mine in boat refurbishing told me that the marine ones are far superior to standard ones because of the salt air. He said there's no comparison--that in our environment, standard breakers will turn to crap in no time at all, even with nominal use.

The cost of that unit Iposted looked pretty cheap, but maybe I'm just better off going with a blank box and putting in the indivisual 10AMP breakers.