Wiring a Cargo/Camper/Mobile Office trailer from Scratch

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Wiring a Cargo/Camper/Mobile Office trailer from Scratch

Postby Pic Shooter » Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:51 am

Been digging for hours and can't seen to really find the information / Best options I need so hopefully someone can provide input.

I currently have a 7'X14" +2Vnose cargo trailer.

I spend about 90 to 100 nights a year at racetracks (I'm a Professional Photographer)

What I'm looking to do is design the Electrical system in the most efficient way possible using things I already have.

What my plan is, Is to have
-2 120AH deep cycle batteries

-a Charger to recharge them (I have a Schumacher 12/6/2amp charger, Would this work instead of using a RV converter/Charger ?)
-Input for a Champion 2000W Inverter generator.

I also have a old Generac 4500W generator which I only want to use if absolutely necessary because it's very noisy and uses a lot more fuel.

The Generator will be run to recharge the batteries and power a desktop computer with 2 23" lcd monitors
(Even though it's supposed to be a true sine wave generator, Would it be a good idea run the computers off a Surge Protected UPS ? )

-I have a 400W and 1000W inverter. The only thing a inverter will be used for is so I can recharge camera batteries without running the generator.

-I also have 60 Watts of Solar Panels to help keep the batteries charged.

-I have a small Danby 5000BTU portable air conditioner that I don't know if I will use or not. Using the AC and the Computers at the same time would likely require using the large generator.

The items that will run on 12V will be
- A Dometic 12 Fridge. It's rated at 3.7 DC amps. Checking with a Ammeter it draws 3.4 Amps. But I'm not sure how to determine the power capacity required for it since it appears to run anywhere from 20% to 60% of the time.

-2 LCD Ceiling Lamps

-2 Computer fans for ventilation


My current thinking is to put a marine 15Amp inlet on the outside of the trailer for the generator. But maybe using a 30 Amp would be better.
A powerbar with 15amp breaker in the trailer.
Plugging the battery charger into the power bar to charge the batteries when the genny is running.
Having all the 12V running off the batteries.
Having the Solar charge controller feeding the batteries directly.

Is this a stupid idea ?
Would I be better off using some kind of some small controller / Distribution panel ?.

I need to do this as economically as possible due to a recent job loss and currently starting 2 businesses.

Sorry for all the stupid question.

Are there and links to wiring diagrams here that I'm missing ?
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Re: Wiring a Cargo/Camper/Mobile Office trailer from Scratc

Postby terryjones1 » Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:59 pm

Pic Shooter wrote:Been digging for hours and can't seen to really find the information / Best options I need so hopefully someone can provide input.

I currently have a 7'X14" +2Vnose cargo trailer.

I spend about 90 to 100 nights a year at racetracks (I'm a Professional Photographer)

What I'm looking to do is design the Electrical system in the most efficient way possible using things I already have.

What my plan is, Is to have
-2 120AH deep cycle batteries

-a Charger to recharge them (I have a Schumacher 12/6/2amp charger, Would this work instead of using a RV converter/Charger ?)
-Input for a Champion 2000W Inverter generator.

I also have a old Generac 4500W generator which I only want to use if absolutely necessary because it's very noisy and uses a lot more fuel.

The Generator will be run to recharge the batteries and power a desktop computer with 2 23" lcd monitors
(Even though it's supposed to be a true sine wave generator, Would it be a good idea run the computers off a Surge Protected UPS ? )

-I have a 400W and 1000W inverter. The only thing a inverter will be used for is so I can recharge camera batteries without running the generator.

-I also have 60 Watts of Solar Panels to help keep the batteries charged.

-I have a small Danby 5000BTU portable air conditioner that I don't know if I will use or not. Using the AC and the Computers at the same time would likely require using the large generator.

The items that will run on 12V will be
- A Dometic 12 Fridge. It's rated at 3.7 DC amps. Checking with a Ammeter it draws 3.4 Amps. But I'm not sure how to determine the power capacity required for it since it appears to run anywhere from 20% to 60% of the time.

-2 LCD Ceiling Lamps

-2 Computer fans for ventilation


My current thinking is to put a marine 15Amp inlet on the outside of the trailer for the generator. But maybe using a 30 Amp would be better.
A powerbar with 15amp breaker in the trailer.
Plugging the battery charger into the power bar to charge the batteries when the genny is running.
Having all the 12V running off the batteries.
Having the Solar charge controller feeding the batteries directly.

Is this a stupid idea ?
Would I be better off using some kind of some small controller / Distribution panel ?.

I need to do this as economically as possible due to a recent job loss and currently starting 2 businesses.

Sorry for all the stupid question.

Are there and links to wiring diagrams here that I'm missing ?


You probably need a much higher capacity Converter/Charger. Look at either WFCO or Inteli-Power Power Centers. You need to recharge those big batteries.
The 400 W Inverter will easily charge camera batteries.
Your Champion 2000W Inverter generator will probably run the air conditioneer if everything requiring 110ACV power is turned off, including the converter. The big current draw on the air conditioneer is at startup.
I cannot advise you on a surge-protected UPS. I never used one with my computer. However, it was a laptop.
If your 12 DCV refrigerator uses 3.4 ampa while running, and your duty cycle is say 50% (It is running 50% of the time), then, you will be using 1.7 amps per hour or 40.8 amp hrs per day. The Power Centers that I suggested will have distribution for 110 ACV and for 12 DCV. I see nothing wrong with 20 amp ACV input.
You probably have LED lamps and not LCD.
My TTT Garageable Standy Build Journal: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=40591
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Postby bdosborn » Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:44 pm

Start here for a good wiring diagram, then we can tailor it for you:

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... c&start=90

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Postby GuitarPhotog » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:07 pm

Why run battery chargers (such as for camera and laptop) off 120VAC that you have to make. If you run such appliances on 12 VDC, it's much more efficient.

You have a lot of AC capacity, and you might be able to overload the typical 30A service. Speaking of which, will you have 30A service at your locations? I worked around barns and horses for years and didn't see many 30A outlets even at fancy show barns.

Try creating a spreadsheet with your energy budget to see if you are over- or under-building.

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Postby Pic Shooter » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:15 pm

Terry, Thanks a lot. I think a proper power center is the way to go. One of the guys I work with has a son that is a RV Tech at a big dealer and suggested a Inteli power 4000 Series power center. Not too expensive if you order online out of the US and less in the long run than piecing a system together. An yes, LED light fixtures

Bruce, Thanks so much. That Diagram is just what I was looking for.
(And your trailer is amazing, Very Cool )

Basically the generator runs all day. Not a problem at the track since everyone has gennys running for the tire warmers anyways. But it's rude to run them while people are sleeping.
Last edited by Pic Shooter on Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Pic Shooter » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:34 pm

GuitarPhotog wrote:Why run battery chargers (such as for camera and laptop) off 120VAC that you have to make. If you run such appliances on 12 VDC, it's much more efficient.

You have a lot of AC capacity, and you might be able to overload the typical 30A service. Speaking of which, will you have 30A service at your locations? I worked around barns and horses for years and didn't see many 30A outlets even at fancy show barns.

Try creating a spreadsheet with your energy budget to see if you are over- or under-building.

<Chas>

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It's Motorcycle Roadracing and Motocross I shoot. Not horses.
I think I'll be ok just running the Little AC unit and the computer. I checked the AC with a Kill-A-Watt unit and it showed 536 Watts while running and 760-780 watts when starting up. The Computer and Monitor showed 488 Watts. On the little Champion that would be all I could run. It will put out a constant 1600 watts and surge to 2000 watts.

We shoot with 4 bodies and have 4 chargers to use. I don't even know if Nikon has 12V chargers. I'll have to check into that. Good point

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Postby bdosborn » Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:36 pm

Pic Shooter wrote: One of the guys I work with has a son that is a RV Tech at a big dealer and suggested a Inteli power 4000 Series power center.


Do a Google search on WFCO. Basically the same thing as the intellipower 4000 but cheaper.

You'll want at least a 30 amp charger if you have 2 - 12v batteries as the manufacturers usually recommend a minimum C/8 charge rate.

(120AHrsx2 12v batteries)/8=30.

It works out to be about the same size if you have 2 - 6 volt golf cart batteries.

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Re: Wiring a Cargo/Camper/Mobile Office trailer from Scratc

Postby Tabitha » Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:53 pm

Thank you for this post, I was very nervous about wiring our trailer but I used this as a go by and SUCCESS! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Our wiring is now all the right gauge for it's use and the extension cord he used has been removed. We started laying insulation this afternoon. :)
Someday, we will learn to take living in stride. Sometime, we will learn to pay less attention to the imagined and stop fussing about things we had nothing to do with in the past - and cannot change significantly in the future. Very soon, we will sit together in the sun a whole day and just be happy that we can sit together in the sun all day and just be happy.
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