Progressive Dynamics Questions

[Gunguy05]

We are trying to make the final determinations on our power equipment for the build. Looking like using the PD 4000 series converter. Not sure as to whether the 4045 or 4060 yet. Just want to make sure I am not missing something here.

Questions are assuming we will have: a battery in gallery near unit, internal lights (LED), outside (porch light), Galley lights, and (2) 110 inside and (1) 110 in galley (receptacles), and A/C 5000 btu inside of cabin.

What else do we need in terms of termination, switches or fuses/breakers external to this? Does it need to have a cut off switch going to the battery?

Do we need a 110 breaker on it, or is that part of the unit? Also, I assume the 12V fuses are all that is needed on that side of it, other than a fuse on the 12V near the batter?

Any other advice or info on this ( I didn't see any extensive install threads on this unit, but maybe I missed one somewhere)?

Thanks,

[GuitarPhotog]

You need to put 120 VAC breakers in the PD for the Master power and for the Converter itself, plus one for each 120 VAC circuit you want to protect. My PD4045 has two double breakers, one 20+20 for the master and converter and one 15+15 for the branch circuits.

You will need to buy and install automotive-type fuses for each DC circuit.

You need a fuse near/at the battery. I use an on-line fuse holder for this so I can mount it right at the battery terminal.

I wired a Main Battery disconnect switch to the terminals in the PD. It however does not disconnect the parasitic load of the converter electronics, so there's always a small power draw.

<Chas>

[Gunguy05]

You need to put 120 VAC breakers in the PD for the Master power and for the Converter itself, plus one for each 120 VAC circuit you want to protect. My PD4045 has two double breakers, one 20+20 for the master and converter and one 15+15 for the branch circuits.

You will need to buy and install automotive-type fuses for each DC circuit.

You need a fuse near/at the battery. I use an on-line fuse holder for this so I can mount it right at the battery terminal.

I wired a Main Battery disconnect switch to the terminals in the PD. It however does not disconnect the parasitic load of the converter electronics, so there's always a small power draw.

<Chas>

So my shore power runs directly into the PD?

[GuitarPhotog]

You need to put 120 VAC breakers in the PD for the Master power and for the Converter itself, plus one for each 120 VAC circuit you want to protect. My PD4045 has two double breakers, one 20+20 for the master and converter and one 15+15 for the branch circuits.

You will need to buy and install automotive-type fuses for each DC circuit.

You need a fuse near/at the battery. I use an on-line fuse holder for this so I can mount it right at the battery terminal.

I wired a Main Battery disconnect switch to the terminals in the PD. It however does not disconnect the parasitic load of the converter electronics, so there's always a small power draw.

<Chas>

So my shore power runs directly into the PD?

Mine does. I use the Master breaker position in the PD as the Master for the entire trailer.

<Chas>

[les45]

The master breaker does not cut the battery power. It only cuts the DC that is made by the converter. In fact the battery is meant to run when shore power is not available unless you do install a master cutoff switch. I installed my master battery cutoff switch in the positive battery lead before it entered the PD using a standard AC house switch. The switch is mounted above the PD and facing the galley for easy access. BTW - on your list of things, I would highly recommend using GFCI outlets in your AC system, especially for your "outdoor" outlets in the galley.

[Gunguy05]

The master breaker does not cut the battery power. It only cuts the DC that is made by the converter. In fact the battery is meant to run when shore power is not available unless you do install a master cutoff switch. I installed my master battery cutoff switch in the positive battery lead before it entered the PD using a standard AC house switch. The switch is mounted above the PD and facing the galley for easy access. BTW - on your list of things, I would highly recommend using GFCI outlets in your AC system, especially for your "outdoor" outlets in the galley.

Gotcha.. We had discussed that. I will make sure they are GFCI.

These are precisely the details that I needed to know... thanks!

[Shadow Catcher]

The one thing I will add is have more outlets than you think you will want . Both 120AC and 12V.

[les45]

The one thing I will add is have more outlets than you think you will want . Both 120AC and 12V.

+1 on that; I originally installed one AC outlet in the cabin and two GFCI outlets in the galley. I ended up adding an AC outlet, two DC outlets, and a USB port inside the cabin. One AC outlet wasn't enough for heater, laptop, speaker amplifier, and iPad/iPhone chargers. Also added one DC outlet in the galley for miscellaneous gadget charging.

[Gunguy05]

The one thing I will add is have more outlets than you think you will want . Both 120AC and 12V.

+1 on that; I originally installed one AC outlet in the cabin and two GFCI outlets in the galley. I ended up adding an AC outlet, two DC outlets, and a USB port inside the cabin. One AC outlet wasn't enough for heater, laptop, speaker amplifier, and iPad/iPhone chargers. Also added one DC outlet in the galley for miscellaneous gadget charging.

+1 on both of these.. more stuff I need to know. We were planning on 1 in the galley... maybe 2 now. Also 1 AC on each side of the cabin, in the back. Maybe add 1-2 DC up in the front as well, near the kids bunks.

Thanks to all,

[les45]

You might want to think about one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201034732628?ss ... 1497.l2649
It's compact and provides multiple outlets with just one wire to hook up.
The newer phones and a lot of other gadgets are now using USB ports for charging directly without a separate transformer.

[IslandStorm62]

Hope it is alright to piggyback on this discussion. I picked up a PD4060 and am now looking at it, kinda like a pig looks at a wristwatch,...lol, not quite that bad. Hope I can get some step by step setup assistance. First of all I plan on having a tongue box that will hole two 12v deep cycle batteries (parallel / serial) I forgot but I'll re-read that later. My PD4060 will be in the Galley facing out back; mounted on the left (drives side).

I think this is what I need:

1 - External DC disconnect switch. ANY Recommendations?
2 - GND/WHT and POS/BLK 12g stranded wire.

Question - On the Battery, BLK is Negative but on the PD4060 BLK is POS+? Which means I would connect my battery to my WD4060 in this manner:

I would run the WHT/GND wire from the NEG battery terminal to the GND post in the WD4060.

I would then run a POS/BLK wire from battery POS battery terminal to the "first post" of the External DC Disconnect switch, and then, from the same first post, continue the run to the POS/BLK post o n the WD4060.

I would remove the "JUMPER" connecting the POS/BLK post with the Alternate POS/DC DISC post on the WD4060.

After that I would run an additional POS/BLK wire from the "second post" of the external DC Disconnect , to the Alternate Battrery POS + (DC Disconnect) post on the WD4060.

After I complete the wiring above, does this now mean that the battery can provide DC power to the WD4060, and when the installation is complete, the WD4060 can charge the batteries when connected to shore power. I know there is more to go, but I am having to cut this elephant up into little bite size pieces.

Your comments are welcome and needed.

[IslandStorm62]

You need to put 120 VAC breakers in the PD for the Master power and for the Converter itself, plus one for each 120 VAC circuit you want to protect. My PD4045 has two double breakers, one 20+20 for the master and converter and one 15+15 for the branch circuits.

You will need to buy and install automotive-type fuses for each DC circuit.

You need a fuse near/at the battery. I use an on-line fuse holder for this so I can mount it right at the battery terminal.

I wired a Main Battery disconnect switch to the terminals in the PD. It however does not disconnect the parasitic load of the converter electronics, so there's always a small power draw.

<Chas>

Can you help me understand this? Are you saying I need one 120VAC Breaker specifically for the converter? And a seperate 120VAC for each circuit? By circuit I assume you mean one line with multiple outlets and/or lights?

What is an in-line fuse holder and what is the reason for it.

Thanks for the help.

[GuitarPhotog]

An inline fuse holder is just that, a wire with a fuse holder in the middle of it. It goes between your battery Pos (+) and the Batt input to the PD converter. The purpose of this fuse is to protect the wiring into the PD and to provide overall short circuit protection for the system. I had a small electrical fire in my TD because I did not install that fuse. You can get these at your local auto parts store.

Yes, you need a 120V breaker for the converter itself and one more for each 120 VAC circuit (i.e., string of lights, outlets, A/C, fridge, etc). Each breaker position in the PD can hold a double breaker (i.e., 2 circuits in the space of one), so you should have plenty of room.

I used one of these as the main On/Off switch http://westmarine.com/blue-sea-systems- ... 72_004_501

When you wire the switch in place of the jumper in the PD, it turns all DC to/from the PD off, including when you are plugged into shore power.

<Chas>

[Shadow Catcher]

I used the same one after another failed

[Epbowen]

Hey guys, what size inline fuse did you use between the battery and pd4045?