Questions about solar and batteries?

[62Grains]

Hello!

Im obviously new to the forum and have recently started my project so I have been just kind of searching the net for information. Seems like I might of hit the jackpot here. Lots of ideas, pics, and info for sure.

I recenly purchases an enclosed Pace 17 ft. trailer and would like to set it up to do some camping as well. My family and I dry camp quite a bit and almost always camp in very primitive areas.

I am trying to upgrade the trailer with some minor additions and changes to make it a little more suiting to us. We wont necessarily camp within the trailer, but I would like that as an option as well when the Mrs. and I head out without the kiddos.

My main questions at this time are in regards to the battery and solar system I would like to put in. Im pretty new to this type of system and setup, so I might have some questions that are pretty basic. So apologies to the technical gurus in advance.

The trailer already has a setup for a battery and a few lights inside. I replaced all of the bulbs with LED's already since they have regular bulbs in place. I also recently picked up a few Optima Blue Top batteries. The models is the D34M. I got them for a pretty good price, so I kind of felt I couldnt pass up on it at the time. After doing a little more research, I see the batteries are only rated at 55ah. Compared to many other batteries I was actually disappointed to see that. I was basing my assumptions that they would be in the higher range due to the reputation of the company. Is there something I am missing here? Or are they actually on the pretty low end in this catergory?

I would like to run 3-4 of these batteries in the trailer and I would prefer to use a solar setup to charge them. I have an inverter and plan to incorporate it within the system as well. We actually dont really consume much power, but it would be nice to have it if we need it.

This is the solar setup that I have been looking at. It seems to have a ton of good reviews and it looks like it has just about everything that I would probably need minus some extra cable and the wiring.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DCEKKQ0/ref ... SF8S00L4IY

Any thoughts on this system? Good, bad, or ugly? I would prefer to keep the solar costs to under $200 if possible and still get some halfway decent gear. I also am thinking that I might need to build this in a way that makes it portable. I was originally planning on mounting it to the roof of the trailer, but when I think about it, we really dont ever park it in the sun when we camp. I usually look for the shade of a tree. So I probably need to be able to remove it easily and then place it on a stand of some type in the direct sun.

Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions would be indeed extremely helpful. No matter how small or big.

Thanks in advance and I look forward to learning so much more here.

[tony.latham]

I think Optima rates those as 50ah as useable AHs. My Costco Group 27 (smaller than your BlueTop) is rated at 110ah, but only about half of those are useable.

If the only thing you are going to run is LED lights for a couple of hours while you're camping, all you need is one of the BlueTops. I think the LEDs I have in my 'drop consume somewhere around .1 or .2 amps per hour.

In your post you mention you've got an inverter... so you have plans on running something other than the LEDs. Figure out how many amps you're going to burn in a day and go from there. Your question Is kinda like asking if five gallons of gas is enough to get where you're going, without defining your mileage and distance. Capish?

I built my folding panels by following Bruce Osborn's instructions here: http://home.comcast.net/~bdosborn/Boxca ... Solar.html I like'd his portable panels 'cause I can camp in the shade and run my panels out into the sun. I believe I've got about $120 into the system.

My two 30 watters are all I'll ever need. (Fantastic Fan, electric blanket, maybe my DVD player, all run off of one Group 27 battery –from time to time).


Tony

[MtnDon]

I see the batteries are only rated at 55ah.

I'm not familiar with the battery in question. What is the hour rate that 55 amp-hours is for? Renewable energy systems generally use the 20 hour rate. Some batteries are listed at a 100 hour rate and that makes a big difference. Have a look at the specs.


I know some people who have had good fortune with the Renogy brand. Panels seem good, the controller is sort of average but the couple I know of have had them a year or so with no issues. The real question is how good they will be for recharging what you will typically use in a typical day. A lot of that will depend on how much sun they will get. IMO, roof mounts are great for when it is parked in the yard at home and when toeing down the highway. Not as good when camped where we like to camp; under trees. So portable has its place. Some of each may be what we end up doing. (trailer is almost ready to use but the PV is at the end of the list and budget.) We will be running a 12 VDC fridge.

[62Grains]

Here is a link to the spec sheet on the batteries. They are D34M's.

It says on the sheet that the capacity is 55ah (C/20)

I ordered the bundle. Panel, controller, cords, and brackets. Im going to check out the tutorial that was posted to get some ideas on portability.

The hard part of trying to figure out what Im going to consume power wise is the fact that Im actually not all that sure how much power Im going to consume because I havent decided exactly what I want to do. I have a few kids, so they are kinding weighing in on that decision. We usually do primitive camping, so the majority of devices are either battery powered, propane, or liquid fuel based. I was thinking of maybe a smaller DC TV or maybe a smaller A/C TV depending on the power consumption between them. Also a DVD player or something along those lines. I will also be running rooftop lights and battery chargers. I might start taking an electric golf cart, so if I can charge that up, that would be great.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Perfect system if you wanna charge your iphone, night light and listen to the Radio

Im running 2130 watts solar, 800 AH Batteries you can never have to much solar, there is a guy with 3130 watts Solar also.

I have 1 x 250 watt panel for my 63Q ARB fridge set at 27F , a MPPT charge controller, a moringstar 300 Pure sine inverter, on a 200 AH L16 flooded 12 volt battery
and the whole shebang putts along at 750 watts , 50+ AH per day on a 90F day , about 40AH on a 80F day. 35 AH on a 70F day.
I only have $10k in so far.


http://overthetopcargotrailer.blogspot.com/

[62Grains]

I am currently running 3 12v batteries in parallel. I recently picked up a TV that runs on 24v. I thought it was a 12v, but I was wrong. Im also running one single 100 watt solar panel to help with charging.

Now I guess Im kind of looking for advice on how to run my batteries so that I can still charge them and I was hoping to be able to keep the single panel and charge all 3 panels. But now that I think about it, I think the charge controller is a 12v controller and wont charge the 24v, right? Unless I seperate the batteries all together while charging.

I can also throw another battery in there so that I have a total of 4 if that makes things easier.

If anyone has any advice or ideas, that would be great.

[Shadow Catcher]

Rather than futz around with combining 2 12V for only the TV you might consider a 12V to 24V buck converter, Search Ebay for 12v to 24v converter step up.
Batteries in a bank should be the same, age, make... or the weak one will drag the others down to its level.

[62Grains]

That's a great idea. I found a ton of different ones on Amazon. I appreciate the info.

[62Grains]

Well now I've run into a couple more questions.

I bought the buck converter and wired it up. The problem is that now I get a loud buzzing noise coming from the TV and also have a line that scrolls acorss the TV. Is this an issue with the ground?

I also connected a battery disconnect and wired it between the ground wire and the batteries that I have connected. The only problem is that it doesnt do anything. It seems like the system is already grounded somehow? I do have 3 batteries that are hooked up in parallel with each other and Im not sure if that makes a difference or not, but disconnecting the switch does not make a difference and everything still has power. I have not actually confirmed whether the switch is the culprit or if maybe there is some other issue that I have encountered.

Any and all input is always appreciated.

Thanks,

[62Grains]

I wonder if something like this would clear the noise up?

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-NS50-InLi ... 5C5YW2WBWW

[MtnDon]

battery disconnect and wired it between the ground wire

The battery disconnect should be in the + line as close to the battery as possible, assuming the system has a negative ground as is the norm. That's the same place a master fuse or circuit breaker should be placed to protect against catastrophic shorts and all sub circuit fuses would also be in the + wires. .


Don't know about the noise though; any of the converters I have used have never had that problem. It could be that the converter has an issue or is a cheapy that has poor design.

[62Grains]

Well I looked a little closer. I attached my truck to the trailerjust in case it had an issue grounding and tthat didn't do anything. But I checked it out closer aand the buzzing seems to be coming out of the speakers.