Wiring Diagram - Help Please!!!

[tony.latham]

The best ever, "Let's go campin' movie"

Hey there's a comic book too:



I've got the movie in my Amazon wishlist, thanks for the tip.

Bruce

Bruce:

Actually... the movie is horrible. But give it a try some night. It IS a classic, just don't get too wound up thinking it's a great show.

But nothing like sitting around a campfire on a dark night in the woods with little conversation. Just lower your voice while staring into the flames, "Anyone seen the movie," pause a bit to let it soak in, "Night of the Grizzly?"

Tony

[Tommy2tone_1999]

Okay i think i will go with the 30 A furion shore power plug and adapt later. I am at Lowes now. Looking at a 10 ga dryer cord for the shore power to converter and a 12 ga air cond extension cord for the converter to outlet conections

[bdosborn]

Okay i think i will go with the 30 A furion shore power plug and adapt later. I am at Lowes now. Looking at a 10 ga dryer cord for the shore power to converter and a 12 ga air cond extension cord for the converter to outlet conections

That's the wrong one, a dryer cord won't work as it's a NEMA 14-30 plug. Get an RV cord and plug, which is a TT–30:

30A Trailer Service

Bruce

P.S. You really don't need a 30A plug, it's just a PITA for a teardrop, IMHO.

[Tommy2tone_1999]

Thanks. Alright instead im going to get Romex 10/3 and 12/3 type NM-B

[Tommy2tone_1999]

I was going to cut the plugs off and use the wire on the extension cords

[bdosborn]

I wouldn't use romex, it would be a pain to coil up everytime. They make flexible cords already terminated with an RV plug:

RV Plug and cord


Bruce

[Tommy2tone_1999]

Okay there seems to be some confusion, and I thinks it's my choice of terms. I proposed the use of the Dryer cord or the romex for use INSIDE the trailer from the plug where shore power comes in, and goes to the converter.

[bdosborn]

Oh, gotcha. That will work.

Bruce

[WoodSmith]

There is some debate that I see here regarding solid vs stranded wire for wiring the electrical systems. My preference would be to use stranded. If you do decide to use solid wire, I would be certain that the wire is supported and does not move around. Repeatedly flexing solid wire is a sure way to cause a break.

[bc toys]

Tommy you need a TT-30 plug and SO -10/3 for the cord and inside you need stranded if you can 12/3 if not use romex 12/3 but as woody said secure it within a ft of the box and every now and then go back and tighten up the screws on the receptacles or make the romex hook on the end and wrap around the screw are you putting a breaker box in if so get a nema-4 weather proof breaker panel good luck with your build

[bdosborn]

I'll take a big risk here and poke a sacred cow:

I used to think that stranded wire was pretty important till I started looking at how the wiring in old trailers was done- it's all solid core. Additionally, the NEC requires type NM for trailers (which is solid). I quit worrying about solid core and used it throughout my trailer. I've never heard of anyone (myself included) having a problem with it. So I wouldn't sweat it much, just pick the one you can terminate well. There's far more risk from bad terminations heating up and causing a fire than with solid core wire breaking IMHO.

Bruce

[bobhenry]

I have gotta agree with Bruce on this one. I have built using old 2 wire vacuum cleaner cords for my 12 volt wiring. I have used 12 -3 extention cord. I have used 12-2 romax with ground and 14 -2 romax for the lighting circuits. I have used stranded 12 and 14 gage for AC and DC circuits. I have taken special care to see the connections were soldered and well insulated where possible. Have used crimp connectors at some boxes when needed. In short all kinds of STUFF. I had 2 failures I had a very old light duty 2 wire cord I was using for DC and it had rotted internally and was shorted. The outside looked great but it was just crumbs inside. It didn't last long when it went live. I also tried to use some speaker wire on a "light duty " 12 volt circuit it melted instantly. So just watch the gage and make good solid connections and you will have few problems.

[MtnDon]

...... poke a sacred cow:

Go ahead; I think it's more of an old wives tale and/or overthinking the issue.

We had an 1983 Class C on a GMC chassis. Between the former owners and ourselves, when we sold it in 2011, maybe it was 2012, it had close to 90,000 miles on it. None of the 120 VAC solid copper wire ever had any problems.

[bc toys]

I do agree that it is ok to use solid wire but being a electrician for 32 years all the electrical fires i've seen was caused by loose connections so I prefer stranded myself or using the hook method around the screw not just push it in and tighten the screw they have the plugs that you push it in a little hole and then tighten a screw they work well but this is my .02$ Never had any of mine come loose in my trailers but then again I have never keep a trailer long enough to find out LOL

[Tommy2tone_1999]

For the AC side I went with the 10 Ga dryer cord from the 30A Inlet to the PD4045 converter.





From the converter/breakers, I have 12 Gauge appliance extension cord.

All of my AC electrical is a short run (less than 3 feet) and is all in either the Galley or sleeping cabin cabinets. I'm glad I saw the posts on stranded vs solid wire for for the 12V side. I was almost ready to order 12 GA speaker wire. I'm giving serious thought now to solid wire instead. Thanks guys! If I do decide to stay with speaker wire, are there any particular brands to avoid?