complex wiring for a camping trailer

[gene so]

Hello,

I am just finishing the custom frame for my camping trailer. it is to have a nine foot interior including a 2 foot deep galley, five foot high and 66" wide.
Electrically I know I want both AC and DC power ( 120 and 12V) I have a heater, refrigerator, cooktop, air conditioner and microwave for this trailer. I intend on having a subfloor to contain all the wiring and also propane line. The microwave will only be used when i shall be hooked up to 120V. I will want more than just lighting for usage in the interior. I have been informed that the co-ax cable meant for 120V systems power from the exterior source should beat least a foot away from any other electrical lines.

I have an inverter and have been informed that I will need a converter, fuse boxes for both types of electrical power, a deep cycle 12 v battery and that a Honda 200E is a very quiet, efficient generator. I do want lights throughout the unit, especially for reading etc. at night.

To those who are used to this type of electrical challenge, this might not seem that big of a deal. To me, right now, it is a formidable mountain. I have a large tool box for the front that will contain 2 propane tanks and all the electrical componentry to make all this work properly, and a lot of other storage materials.

I would like to see anyones' system that can do everything I want to achieve electrically. I would appreciate any info from anyone on these issues and also components, such as good interior lighting.

Thank you for your attention in this matter.

Gene So

[George Taylor]

I, one, would not hid the propane line under (in) a floor cavity. Also I would keep electrical in a separate compartment from propane tanks. Gas leaks+sparks=bad news. My converter is inside of the sleeping compartment way away from gas and protected from water leaks.

[MtnDon]

I'm sorry I don't have any drawings that would be useful to a novice electrician. Our CTC does have much of what is planned for this project. But most was draw out freehand on paper, revised with eraser and pencil a time or three, and then recycled.

The copper line sandwiched in the floor is not the potential problem. The potential issue would be with any connections, any fitting being buried and inacessible if every necessary.

As for propane cylinders being in the vicinity of batteries I believe that is not dangerous with some precautions. 1. Make it very easy for any leaking propane to fall out the bottom of any enclosed space. Propane gas is heavier than air. Have some good size "drop through" holes for any leaks to easily dissipate through. 2. Have the battery enclosed and vented upwards to release any hydrogen safely. The battery should also have a cover to prevent any accidental dropped metallic object from causing a short. 3. Have a wrench or two of the correct size(s) for the battery connections that can be your dedicated battery wrenches. Wrap the wrench with several layers of silicone tape; leave only the end that will fit the bolt uncovered. That greatly reduces the chance of accidental contact when "wrenching". In fact that is a great idea for any battery work even if it is not near propane / gasoline....

[Shadow Catcher]

We have a Progressive Dynamics power center that makes it easy to wire http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html

RVIA calls for gas pipes to be run below the trailer Propane is heavier than air, I check mine for leaks each year, and have found them. The electrical goes inside the roof the walls and under the trailer in conduit. Battery an AGM is in the tongue box along with solar controllers. The AGM does not vent hydrogen so is safe around electronics with out venting. This is a bit misleading as there is now a 150Amp hour AGM and two solar controllers as well as a 300W inverter.

[Dale M.]

I preferred to have propane line exposed.... If you have a propane leak and if hits the right combination of air and propane it is a fuel/air bomb if it finds a ignition source... If line is exposed below floor and if it decides to leak the propane is allowed to dissipate and be diluted in the atmosphere and there for not a hazard....

Dale

[MtnDon]

Hey Gene, Let's try to get you pointed in the right direction. There are some questions below that when answered might help with planning.

It does sound like you want a versatile setup; the ability to use campground power connections, TV, etc, as well as being able to boondock and enjoy the electrical appliances in the woods.

In a small trailer I believe in using 12 volts DC for the lighting. It makes no sense to me to run AC lights in a trailer. But electric heaters, microwaves and air conditioning need 120 VAC power. Some of that AC can come from batteries via an inverter, but air conditioning is generally not compatible unless you uber-size the batteries.

The PD4045 that was mentioned is a handy thing to build with. Fuses, battery charger / converter all combined in one unit. Saves space and frustration especially for neophyte electricians. The battery charger part of it has multi stage charging; you can leave it plugged in long term with no ill effects.

A refrigerator was mentioned. What kind? Do you have it already? What are its power needs? AC or DC and how many watts, etc?

Also mentioned was an inverter that you already have. Pure sine wave or modified sine wave? How many watts output? What devices are you thinking of running off the inverter?

You can probably skip the generator if you use campgrounds with hookups a lot.

[cheri832]

Gene,
You do know that co-axil cable is not electrical cable? If you are planning a cable TV hook up there isn't really a reason to route it with the electrical cables...even though they do sell a shielded version you will still get intermittant interference and/or data loss if it's too close to electric lines.
Cheri
(a retired telecom switch technician)