Newbie electrical questions.

[mjg0808]

Hi everyone,
This is my 2nd post. I have a 6x12 vnose enclosed trailer that I'll be using for multi-use. Camping, occasional moving of material(construction) and hangar for my giant scale radio control airplanes. Here's what I'm looking to accomplish. I want to be able to run on shore power(plugged in to house and generator) and battery power. This is what I have purchased already:
Yamaha 2400 ishc
coleman polar cub mach 8 9200 btu
PD 4045
2000 watt pure sine wave inverter
2 Trojan t-105 run in series
in-line 200 amp ANL fuse off the battery
CR radio with speaker
32' smart tv (kids love Netflix)
lots of LED strip lights to be ran inside and outside
Marinco 115 volt charger inlet
20 amp generator cord
Other stuff that I'm sure I forgot.
*My biggest questions are what size wire from inlet to converter?
What size cables from converter to batteries?
I only bought a 115volt inlet and not a 30 amp (not sure if I need one)
Battery cable/ground size for batteries and to inverter? The distance from inlet to converter to batteries and inverter will be no longer than 5 feet if that helps.
To ground or not to ground to frame? ( I know it can be a touchy subject)
I want to be able to run the TV off off shore and battery power. Would I need a ATS or is there another way of doing it without swapping plugs?
I have a little experience with AC but it's been over 20 years since I've played with DC and that was limited to hooking up car stereos in my younger days.
I welcome all suggestions to what has worked for everyone or what will work.
Picture would be nice to if you feel like sharing!!
Sorry for such a long-winded post....
Thank you all!!!

Mike

[dustboy]

Check here for AWG for inverter hookup:
http://www.donrowe.com/power-inverter-faq-a/258.htm#hookup

My inclination is more grounding, more better. Let's say you're on shore power, and you have a loose hot wire making contact to the frame. If your frame isn't grounded, rather than tripping a breaker, a human could complete a circuit between the frame and earth ground.

[Dale M.]

Absolutely on grounding.... AC (green wire) ground should be bonded to chassis/skin and you can ground negative side of DC system to chassis and skin.... For protection of ALL suggest GFI circuits on AC supply from either shore power or generator, you only live once.... IF hooking up to "unknown" shore power a $7.50 plug/circuit tester is a must...

As of yet I have not heard or read any good reason NOT to ground chassis/frame/skin..

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=60617

If you have good DC ground bond to chassis/skin you can use that as one side of your DC LIGHTING - Some will argue against it and that is ok, but its all about how you do grounds connections.. OR just do 2 wire circuit for DC lighting be done with it....

As for wire size go with what manufacturer of "devices" recommend.... Generally for power from converter to battery something in neighborhood of 8 gauge ... For AC curcuits either 12 or 14 gauge as you are not wiring nearly as many devices as one may in house.... For DC lighting probably 16 gauges for incandescent and 18 gauge for LEDS...

Several really good charts out there (Google Search) for wire sizes to safely carry known amounts of current/amperage...

Only thing that raised my eye brows is your two Trojan t-105 wired in series, this will give you a 24 DC volt system!.... I believe you want them in "parallel" which maintains the 12 volts and doubles the capacity...

Dale

[MtnDon]

The T105 Trojan is their version of the common golf cart battery; 6 volts.

[Dale M.]

The T105 Trojan is their version of the common golf cart battery; 6 volts.

OK... Didn't do my research well enough, made a "assumption"... Bad for me...

Dale