LashLSUfan's Wiring Diagram... Thoughts/Concerns

[lashlsufan]

After completing the insulation in the trailer, wiring will be the next item on the list to complete. I am going with the PD4045KV for the AC/DC/converter. I plan to have my shore power wired for 30A since that will run everything I have in the trailer and is the source at the location we plan to use the trailer most. The attached wiring diagram shows the breakdown of the AC and DC wiring. The wiring of the PD4045KV is shown in the diagram completed by user "absolutsnwbrdr". The other picture attached is the layout of the trailer showing roughly where each item will be placed in the trailer.

I am still unsure about grounding all the items to the trailer and will have to do some more research about how/where to ground everything. Please let me know if you have any insight about any of the wiring and if this looks correct.

[H.A.]

Looks ok to me. But a couple points...
I assume your AC grounding conductor bussbar is also connected to the chassis & exposed metallic structures ??

That "cig/usb (fan) 1amp" does not seem realistic...

You might be over fused on your DC circuits. Some folks may disagree,,

On DC circuits, especially those with fixed loads, I prefer to size fuses to accommodate the expected load of the circuit.
Per your example,
Even if your wiring can handle 20amp current does not mean a connected appliance will.(devices too !)
Example, fan circuit .25A, something within that appliance internally shorts.
Its preferred its overcurrent protection cuts off at a closer to normal operating current,
Were it fused 20 amps, may allow that faulty appliance 'keep on smoking' much longer to eventually catch alight.

[lashlsufan]

Looks ok to me. But a couple points...
I assume your AC grounding conductor bussbar is also connected to the chassis & exposed metallic structures ??

That "cig/usb (fan) 1amp" does not seem realistic...

You might be over fused on your DC circuits. Some folks may disagree,,

On DC circuits, especially those with fixed loads, I prefer to size fuses to accommodate the expected load of the circuit.
Per your example,
Even if your wiring can handle 20amp current does not mean a connected appliance will.(devices too !)
Example, fan circuit .25A, something within that appliance internally shorts.
Its preferred its overcurrent protection cuts off at a closer to normal operating current,
Were it fused 20 amps, may allow that faulty appliance 'keep on smoking' much longer to eventually catch alight.

Thanks for your time and reply. A few questions:
1. When you say "over fused" do you mean I could consolidate some of the circuits. For example, put all lights on one fuse?
2. I understand what you are saying about the 20A fuses. I will likely use a 10A or smaller on some circuits per your recommendation.
3. What does not seem realistic? The fan being 1A? Maybe I don't understand how those usb charger/ wall outlets work. I looked up a 12v fan and did the calculation. It was 1.3A.
4. The AC and DC will be grounded to trailer frame from what I can understand. Is this incorrect?

[H.A.]

Thanks for your time and reply. A few questions:
1. When you say "over fused" do you mean I could consolidate some of the circuits. For example, put all lights on one fuse?
2. I understand what you are saying about the 20A fuses. I will likely use a 10A or smaller on some circuits per your recommendation.
3. What does not seem realistic? The fan being 1A? Maybe I don't understand how those usb charger/ wall outlets work. I looked up a 12v fan and did the calculation. It was 1.3A.
4. The AC and DC will be grounded to trailer frame from what I can understand. Is this incorrect?

You could consolidate a good bit of the loads to just a few circuits. Afterall your 12awg circuits can theoretically carry 16amp constant loads. But its good to leave your loads spread out to multiple circuits as well. Makes for easier troubleshooting/isolating problems and leaves capacity for future additions.
Its a choice for yourself.

I as in your plan, "cig/usb fan" thing indicated to me it incorporated cigarette receptacles as well. Common cigarette plug appliances, lamps fans etc. can draw up to many amps. Perhaps my mistake\ reading??

On the 120vac side of things, The grounding conductor of your shore appliance cord and grounding conductors from your 120vac devices should be connected to the chassis.
DO NOT connect the grounded current carrying conductor of anything to your chassis.
Grounded conductor and grounding conductor are not the same thing and its HUGELY important one understands the difference.

Grounding the battery negative is good practice but its optional so long as all negatives of your 12v system are wired together through a suitable size conductor then eventually connect to the battery negative.
A trailer chassis is an ideal "suitable size conductor" for this purpose. Of course assumes well done wire connections and continuous conductivity of the chassis members.

[MtnDon]

Grounded conductor and grounding conductor are not the same thing

I believe it will be easier to understand AC electricity if we use the terminology that is used by electrician's, electrical designers.... terminolgy refers to 120 VAC systems in Canada and the USA.

"Hot" wire is usually black, sometimes red. This is the wire that gets the fuses or breakers and also the wire the switches are wired into.

"Neutral" wire is always white. No switches, no breakers.

"Ground" wire is either bare as in Romex wire or green as in 3 conductor extension cords. This is the only AC wire that would be connected to the chassis. That would be normally done in only one place such as the fuse / breaker panel.



On the DC side we have the Positive and the Negative. Some people still call the negative the ground. To my mind that can lead to confusion; positive and negative are very definite terms. DC color coding can be confusing. If trying to follow the NEC the DC negative is usually white, like the neutral in AC circuits; black is only used for a hot or positive conductor. If we use the automotive industry methods the negative is most often black with red a common color for positive, but other colors are used also in order to make circuit identification easier. You can connect the negative to the chassis as well as a negative DC buss. Do that negative to ground at/near the battery (1 place only). It is not mandatory but is fine.

[Shadow Catcher]

Plan on more AV and DC circuits than you think you need, it is amazing how wants become needs!

[H.A.]

I believe it will be easier to understand AC electricity if we use the terminology that is used by electrician's, electrical designers.... terminolgy refers to 120 VAC systems in Canada and the USA.

"Hot" wire is usually black, sometimes red. This is the wire that gets the fuses or breakers and also the wire the switches are wired into.

"Neutral" wire is always white. No switches, no breakers.

"Ground" wire is either bare as in Romex wire or green as in 3 conductor extension cords. This is the only AC wire that would be connected to the chassis. That would be normally done in only one place such as the fuse / breaker panel.

Easier to understand or not, Above proposal is more so electrical slang / vernacular vs. designer or engineering terminology.

During my hole driller then mouseclicker days we always pushed using correct engineering terminology and expression. Like it or not helped folks stay on the same page so to speak & promoted higher level of understanding even if success of their job did not require it. (Several guys "saw the light" then went on to higher educations...Yay for us, benevolent folks we were..)

"Neutral" btw, can be white or natural grey. Also a switched conductor provided its iswitched simultaneously along with all ungrounded conductors of its circuit. Lots of everyday devices utilise this.

Before retirement as WE then EE of 37 years, now allows me loads of time split hairs...

[Dale M.]

Simply for grounding... Negative side of battery can ground to skin/chassis for DC grounds, and any AC circuits can have GREEN or BARE WIRE (of Romex) SAFETY GROUND tied to skin/chassis..... AC NEUTRAL should NOT be tied to chassis.....

Dale