Harbor freight trailer brake lights

[ADAS1223]

Hello there tnttt community!

about to start my first build, but already ran into a problem with the trailer wiring kit. I cannot find this topc using the search function either, nor is my google search keywords helping me. I hope someone here is wiring savvy who can point me in the right right direction. it is much appreciated!

long story short: my 4pin connector i wired to my tail lights only give my trailer running lights and turn signal. I am missing the brake function. the wiring diagrams i see online have the (BRAKE/turn) built into one wire. My toyota 2008 highlander has seprate turn/brake lights

so basically i only tapped into the l/r turn signals and running lights. where do i connect the brake function?

THANKS! -Alex

[Dale M.]

You need to get a converter box plus harness to convert you Toyota 3 filament system (tail, stop and turn) to a two filament system (tail, stop/turn (combined)) ... It will either be a custom wiring harness you need to add to Toyota....

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2008_Toyota_Highlander.htm

Or a stand alone converter box .... BUT many if the newer cars that have lamps controlled by computer will want the custom harness and not something you cobble together...

Might work for you but not best choice...
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehi ... 48915.html

Edited to add:

Better choice would be "powered" unit using vehicle battery...
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/46365.html

Dale

[ukewarrior]

Alex,

If you tapped directly into the vehicle wiring and connected this to your trailer, then that is a big no, no with most newer vehicles.
That car light wire is not rated to handle the additional load placed by your trailer lights.
More importantly, it does not protect your multi hundred dollar car computer from something bad happening with the trailer and causing a short or surge back into the car.

The link above is a converter that fixes this issue. While it does tap into your light wires, it doesn't actually draw any current from them.
Instead, it is just using those connections to 'sense' when a light is turned on.
It also has blocking diodes to keep current and shorts flowing from your trailer to your car.
The real power for your trailer lights come from this converter.
It does this when you directly wire the converter to your car battery.
You will have to run a wire from the converter all the way under the car and up into the engine compartment.
This is the tricky part. You will need to find a safe location for the wire along this path and into the engine compartment where you will attach it directly to the positive post of the battery. There is also a fuse provide at this location on the wire.

[bobhenry]

In my 2 1/2 years as a u haul center manager we probably installed somewhere over 2000 converter boxes.

I am sorry but I have to majorly disagree with your post.

Here is the basic schematic for most converter boxes. You see there are no provisions for a 12 volt feed coming from the battery.

http://www.accessconnect.com/taillight_converter.htm

Note the caution that" Lamp out " vehicles may require a semi custom unit and yes they are available.

If you have 20 minutes your local u haul company store can get you winking and blinking in a flash.

[Dale M.]

This particular DIY converter DOES use separate power supplied by vehicle battery....

http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/46365.html

Read description on site for particulars...

Dale

[bobhenry]

oops !

I set humbly corrected and apologetic but it has been 17 years since my u haul days and things do have a way of changing.

[ukewarrior]

No worries.
I've been doing this long enough too to see the change.

I was shocked when I had to buy my first converter that had a direct from the battery link and was $50 !
However, when I looked at the tiny, tiny wires running to my Ford Escape tail lights, I then understood.

The last few I bought have this very nice setup where you don't touch your care wires, per se.
They come with intercept connectors that go between the light fixture and the original car connector.
Actually very nice and foolproof hookup.

oops !

I set humbly corrected and apologetic but it has been 17 years since my u haul days and things do have a way of changing.