30a in-line breaker

[TimC]

I am planning on using this in-line breaker just after my battery with 10awg or 12awg before I distribute it to the various circuits. I know it is really not intended as a battery kill switch to cut all power to the fuse block, but, would you use it as a substitute? Would the addition of a SPST 20a (photo) toggle work better?

30a in-line circuit breaker


20a toggle

[dales133]

Im using the same style breaker in 100amp in my landcrusier s duel battery system and a second one on the cable to the anderson plug at the rear of the vechile.
Im no expert but e0amp sounds to small.
Id be going 50 minimum

[H.A.]

.......

[Shadow Catcher]

I am a big believer in making it really obvious so you do not forget to turn it off. I have a Blue Sea battery cutoff switch. The big red thing.

[TimC]

Thanks all. I chose 30a because if I turn on every LED light and 12v case fan and have phone chargers plugged in I will be pulling under 9amps. If I'm pulling more than that there is something seriously wrong with my wiring.

I'm no 12v electric expert either, but, isn't a 30a breaker/fuse more protection than 50a?

H.A., the extra switch is less than ten bucks, so, I may add it later. The breaker was cheap so I will assume it will have cheap/weak mechanical properties

Thanks again...

[MtnDon]

Disconnecting the negative wire is the convention used when servicing electrical items on autos and boats. The idea being that on a switch connected through the positive side, the exposed terminals on the back of the switch or a broken positive cable could contact the sheetmetal or frame if something goes wrong, creating a short to ground and safety hazard. The negative cable connects to the body ground already—so there’s no additional danger if it rubs. It’s the same principle as why you should always disconnect the battery’s negative side first before performing electrical service.

Note that disconnects that are made to attach directly to a battery terminal are sized to fir the smaller diameter negative post, not the positive. Disconnecting the positive also interrupts the power but a negative terminal disconnect is safer. That said, a fuse or breaker used to protect the wiring is normally in the positive wire.

Not all breakers are made to be used as a switch or disconnect. I can't point to a list of ones that are and are not. I have a single purpose disconnect (big red handle thing) in our CTC negative wire and a fuse as the wiring protection device in the + wire..

Take your choice as to how you look at it.

[TimC]

Back to the drawing board. That's what I get for buying something from China. Slow delivery and dead on arrival. When reset the breaker has no continuity through the device. I think I will go with a toggle switch and an in-line fuse instead. Caveat emptor!

30a in-line circuit breaker

[bdosborn]

Bussmann makes good panel mount breakers that can be used as a disconnect:

http://www.amazon.com/QUALITY-BUSSMANN-30A-32V-Shipping/dp/B00DP1W66W/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1444782250&sr=1-11&keywords=30a+marine+circuit+breaker

Bruce

[MtnDon]

When reset the breaker has no continuity through the device

I may be grasping at straws, but is it possible the breaker needs to sense power when it is being reset?

[TimC]

When reset the breaker has no continuity through the device

I may be grasping at straws, but is it possible the breaker needs to sense power when it is being reset?

I think I know what you mean. I did have it powered up in the TD before removing it and then testing it with my multimeter. Other than those two scenarios I don't know how to check if it needed power or not as it came with typical China instructions; none!