lfhoward wrote:
At the fuse panel, I would suggest running a circuit to each component, using a fuse of the correct amperage for that device. Here's what I would do:
1 - 5 amp fuse - ceiling fan
2 - 15 amp fuse - power outlet
3 - 15 amp fuse - power outlet
4 - 5 amp fuse - LED lighting
5 - empty
6 - 10 amp fuse - input from solar charge controller
The ground for each circuit comes back to its own ground screw on the Blue Sea panel, completing the circuit.
14 or 16 gauge wire should do fine for each of your circuits.
Not quite.
Fuses protect the wiring between the power source and the device. Size the wire to the maximum load to be allowed on the circuit. A maximum load of 15 amps should be wired with 14 gauge wire as a minimum.
16 gauge wire is rated to a maximum of 7.5 amps. That would be okay for the ceiling fan circuit, but not the general purpose power outlet circuit with a 15 amp fuse.
Before buying any solar equipment check the battery manufacturers maximum amp charge rate for the batteries. For example
this battery has a max charge rate of 8.5 amps. That can vary with type of battery chemistry; always check the mfg specs to stay within warranty terms. Two of those batteries in parallel means 17 amps would be the maximum charge rate. That is just an example; check your own battery specs. When you know that you can select the largest panel size that should be used. A 150 watt, 12 volt panel probably puts out a maximum of 8 to 8.5 amps so with the referenced battery up to 2 panels could be used with 2 batteries in parallel.
Whether or not you need an MPPT charge controller on a small system is a topic that will raise lots of differing opinions. MPPT always costs much more. It is not always worth the expense especially when the panel is a so-called 12 volt panel not raised to the optimum sun power angle as many are if roof mounted in a fixed flat position. I'll start the argument with that statement and recommending a PWM controller