troubleScottie wrote:Look through the electrical secrets part. There are several layouts for systems, etc. And lots of possible components eg fan, lights, USB charging ports, radio, TV, frig, water pump.
The 120VAC system can be wired several different ways. The simplest is using extension cord/power strips with surge protectors. The other end is a power distribution box with 50 amp power inlet on the outside wall with multiple circuit breakers and a DC panel with 6-20 fused DC circuits and a charger for your battery/batteries and solar and tow vehicle charging. And lots in between.
The DC system is always separate from the AC system. There are two cross-over points: a battery charger and an inverter.
The DC system can be charged by (1) the tow vehicle (2) shore power (3) solar panels or (4) generators. You really need to have at least a charger if you have battery. Good for while parked at home or in storage.
Charging from the tow vehicle can be a direct connect to the battery, more likely with a solenoid to disconnect the vehicle battery when the vehicle is not running. Again lots of other options.
Also you want to have GCFI outlets to protect you. Of course circuit breakers for AC and fuses for the battery are always required.
Technically the trailer's lights eg stop, turn, running lights represent a third circuit.
When doing the design work, you need to decide where you want to place the various components, where to run wiring, etc. Most people want the wiring inside the walls/roof/floor or some combination. Battery can be placed on the tongue, in the galley or under the trailer. Generally DC wire runs should be short. AC does not really matter for this size trailer.
BTW remember appliances requiring resistive power eg heater OR clean power eg air conditioners, motors OR lots of power mean you are going to need AC power.
Thanks a bunch for your input!! It means a lot.