* I guess it's finally time to add a breakaway switch to my trailer, since most states require them on 3000 lb trailers, and it seems that the requirement may eventually affect my 2100 lb trailer, as laws are becoming more strict (even in Texas), and my trailer could possibly reach 3k lbs (I hope not). I haven't thought having one that important, as I always use crossed safety chains, a locked coupler pin, and usually use a Weight Distributing bar (which makes sure that the coupler won't likely lift off the ball). But, why not just go ahead and install one, anyway, but by doing it my way.
* I know that there are many who advocate using a dedicated battery (most often with its' own trickle charger) when adding a "breakaway" system on their trailers, but having seen many with dead batteries (at the drag strip, usually) and thus non-functional breakaways, I'm going to use my always-topped-up, on-board AGM battery to power my system. Since I barely ever use 12vdc power, and always (even at camp in State Parks) keep it on a BatteryMinder 1.5 amp trickle charger, I'll be assured of having a good battery if I ever need the breakaway to stop my runaway trailer (not the Runaway trailer brand!). I do not supply power to a battery charger on the road thru my 7-way plug, since I prefer to use an external ac charger, and have no fridge or on board items that need the power while traveling.
* Several friends with high-dollar race cars (and high-dollar trailers to match) used on board power for breakaways, back years ago, and my wife's Puma business trailer came wired the same in 2007, so I always figured to do it that way, if ever I was to install a breakaway switch. I've meant to since 2011 (when I added it to my to-do parts list), and it's been on my Amazon Prime "saved for later" list nearly as long. So, I finally went ahead and ordered one along with lawnmower repair parts (the wife doesn't know the difference!), and it'll go on after I get more wire to use (12 years after I quit racing, my wiring supplies finally ran out).
* I also bought an inline, manual-reset circuit breaker that will act as a fuse and power on/off switch, some ring terminals, and Posi-locks & Posi-taps (I ran out of those, too), so I can wire it together in just a few minutes. I'll make a spot inside the tongue box above the battery, so all I have to do is mount the circuit breaker on the inside with a couple of screws, and use a #14 x 1 1/2" TEK self-drilling screw to attach the breakaway switch underneath the 3"x 3/16" square tube tongue. The hard part is crawling underneath the trailer and opening the sealed (I think I used 3M gorilla snot) Spectro junction box, to connect to the brake. Or maybe just tap directly onto the brake wire at the axle (probably won't). Anyway, with temperatures around 100, I might wait for a rainy day.