need PD4045 help and advice

[Joe4Camping]

I need advice on my PD4045 set up. I've read all of the great articles about the PD4045 in TNTTT, but to no avail. So here goes:

I have hooked up the AC side, and that is working great: outlets are all active. However, I am having trouble setting up the DC side:

I've hooked up the converter hot, ground and neutral to their respective breakers and bus bars.
I've connected the battery + to the PD4045 + lug, with a 50 amp fuse.
I've connected a ground wire from battery - to the chassis.
I've connected the battery - to a floating bus bar.
I've connected the bus bar to the PD4045 - lug.
I've inserted 15 amp fuses in DC slots 3 and 4.
I've connected my two interior DC lights to PD4045 black wires (003 and 004), and neutral wires to the floating bus bar.

I've fired up the PD4045, switched on the main 30 amp breaker, and the 15 amp converter breaker. And .... the lights do not work.
Using multimeter, I've checked the voltage between the + and - lugs, and the reading is 13.6, as it should be.
The multimeter shows 0 across each of the DC fuses. The fuses are not blown, I've checked. But why the zero reading?

So, I am at a loss as to why the lights do not work. Just for peace of mind, I tested the lights with a separate 12V battery, and they work.

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

[twisted lines]

First thing I would do is test another light / Or the meter at the switch; Then you can move forward or backward with the flow.

[Tom&Shelly]

I need advice on my PD4045 set up. I've read all of the great articles about the PD4045 in TNTTT, but to no avail. So here goes:

I have hooked up the AC side, and that is working great: outlets are all active. However, I am having trouble setting up the DC side:

I've hooked up the converter hot, ground and neutral to their respective breakers and bus bars.
I've connected the battery + to the PD4045 + lug, with a 50 amp fuse.
I've connected a ground wire from battery - to the chassis.
I've connected the battery - to a floating bus bar.
I've connected the bus bar to the PD4045 - lug.
I've inserted 15 amp fuses in DC slots 3 and 4.
I've connected my two interior DC lights to PD4045 black wires (003 and 004), and neutral wires to the floating bus bar.

I've fired up the PD4045, switched on the main 30 amp breaker, and the 15 amp converter breaker. And .... the lights do not work.
Using multimeter, I've checked the voltage between the + and - lugs, and the reading is 13.6, as it should be.
The multimeter shows 0 across each of the DC fuses. The fuses are not blown, I've checked. But why the zero reading?

So, I am at a loss as to why the lights do not work. Just for peace of mind, I tested the lights with a separate 12V battery, and they work.

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

There should be a jumper in the PD 4045 between what they call the "Battery Pos. +" and the "Alternate Battery Pos. + (DC Disconnect)". Is it there?

If a circuit is open, the voltage across the fuses will read zero. Is there 13.6 volts (or so) across each of the lights? If you can't measure that with the lights in, if you take them out you should see that voltage across the terminals.

Hope that helps.

Tom

[troubleScottie]

You have three different circuits, the AC and DC and the DC charging/converter circuit.

For the AC, walk the circuit.

Check you have power to the external connector ( confirm you are connected to power -- a light ? )
Check that you have power at the main breaker. At the input to the main to the AC neutral bar (were white connectors are attached). Those neon testers are fine. A voltmeter is better. You should have 120 v between the black and white wires. If there is no power there, check the external connection/input plug.
Then confirm that this power at the output of the other breakers (their outputs to neutral bar).
Inspect for power at any junction, switch, etc.
Go to the lights/outlets/end device. Cycle the GFCI outlets/breakers

Also, I think you need a connection between the AC ground ( green wire) and the chassis/ground.

Depending on your frame, grounding to the chassis can be hit and miss. Folding frames, bolts, etc may mean one part of the chassis is not electrically attached to the rest. Better to go to the battery ground.


Same general process for the DC. Confirm there is power from the position post thru each wire back to ground.

[Joe4Camping]

Thanks everyone for your helpful advice. Turns out, the reason for the failed battery connection was my own ignorance.

I was using a grounding bar instead of a power distribution bar! So, instead of splitting the neutral path among my different devices, I was sending the current to a dead end.

After making the component switch, all DC lights and fans work. And the AC side is happy, too. Jeez.

[Redlinesprint]

Hey I too am having issues with my DC side. My AC side works great. Getting 14.6v at the converter positive and negative but cant seem to get power to any of my switches or lights or trace any semblance of power across my DC Circuits.

I think its a grounding issue. My AC green wire goes to chassis from the converter. I have my DC grounds going to a bus bar and then to chassis as well. Should they not go to chassis? Should they go somewhere else? I am running this without a battery if that makes a difference.

Please help, this is driving me insane! Thanks in advanced!

[troubleScottie]

Your ground bus bar also has to connect to the battery negative.

You should test the DC circuits by running a tester between the battery ground and any connection on the DC wire. ( Houseuse Testers Clear Handle Long Probe Red Wire Circuit Voltage Tester Pen for Car Auto $15.00 or any such equivalent). If the circuit from the positive to that point is good, the light lites.