by GTS225 » Tue Feb 04, 2020 7:41 am
Well, the way you are showing it, the lights will be on all the time until the battery goes dead, and there will be a dead short as soon as you throw the switch to "on".
A) You don't have a fuse or breaker protecting the circuit. That should be the first thing off the battery, and in the positive (red) wire.
B) You're showing everything in parallel, even the control switch. Run your grounds (black) to each lighting device, it does not go to the switch.
C) Run your positive (red) to the switch(es) first, then run your reds back to the appropriate terminal at each lighting device. In this manner, your switch is controlling the positive power to the load (light). You can run a single red to multiple switches, then individual reds from each switch to the lights.
D) You won't need 12 gauge wire for LED's. They don't pull enough current to warrant that heavy of a wire. I'd say 16 gauge is plenty.
Hint: Color code your wiring. Run a red to the switches, but use yellow or orange back to the lights. In that way, you will know which wire in a bundle is switched or unswitched, once the interior is all finished, and your only access is at the fixtures or switches.
And in case you don't know it, LED's are polarity sensitive. That means that they will light only when the correct wires are connected to the correct terminals.
Query; You don't really have experience with electrical wiring, or at least schematics, do you?
Roger