godskid wrote:Also -- how does that LiFePo type of battery differ from the two below, both of which I've already bought to run my cpap while in the teardrop. These two both have chargers and monitors built in, and are thus more "consumer friendly" ..... but maybe they're not strong enough to run the teardrop fan and lights. I only use the DC outputs on them.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PF9S9NY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3S00H0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or this newer model they show me, would it suffice for the lead acid replacement, and run the fan and lights? It must have less power somehow, given that it's only $300 including charging & monitoring.https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VL7XYY6/ref=dp_prsubs_1
saltydawg wrote:https://youtu.be/YuKF8XfCVKQ
Lithium battery and fire. Now lifepo4 is a different chemistry and the BMS in the battery protects it. It's also why you want to use a proper charger
godskid wrote:saltydawg wrote:https://youtu.be/YuKF8XfCVKQ
Lithium battery and fire. Now lifepo4 is a different chemistry and the BMS in the battery protects it. It's also why you want to use a proper charger
Oooo, that was fun! (for certain definitions of "fun" ) I already own the first two that I pointed to, but they have charging circuitry, I imagine. Those 2 are only for Cpap usage, as spares for each other. Do they also prefer a partial charge, when sitting for some months? Should I run them a bit, then NOT charge all the way till the next trip?
LiFePO4 does sound safer. I'll suss out the actual cabling I've already got in the trailer (climbing underneath, etc), and determine where to insert this into the circuitry. (while leaving the original empty battery box and 35A charger, for when I sell the unit).
I wonder how much hand strength an anderson connection requires to unplug it. Mine is lessening as I age. Maybe I'll find one somewhere and test pulling it apart.
I've got some of these (see URL) from another project. Is that wire small enough (or too large) for the "small wire from the current sensor to the positive"? Or perhaps I rig it so that wire doesn't get unplugged when I remove the battery to go inside the house.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CEV00
Thanks Scott!
Deb
godskid wrote:Can I use 12AWG wire and appropriately sized Anderson quick connects? The rest of the trailer wiring seems to be 12AWG, and would still be in the circuit. My only draws are the Fan-tastic fan and two lights. And usb plug points. I’m not sure where I started looking at 8gauge, but that seems to be overkill, and harder to work with. Am I okay with 12AWG?
MickinOz wrote:8 awg is around 10mm2.
Way overkill, in my opinion, assuming you are using copper wire. (All bets are off if you are using aluminium wire.)
My Renogy 20 amp solar charge controller will accept maximum wire size of 6mm2. That's 10awg.
12 AWG is 4mm2. I'm using that to connect battery, solar panel and fuse block.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests