Wire Connections and Splices

[eLink]

So... is it OK to bury wire connections within framing? I know that in building construction (110v AC), all connections must be in a J-box. But I see a lot of builds with wire nuts, T-taps, or simple taped splices just hanging loose between the roof spars and buried in the insulation (Generic Benroy for example). What happens if short-circuits start happening a few years down the line... rip open the headliner to find the problem?

What's the best practice?

[John61CT]

No, accessibility for testing & inspection is critical IMO.

Not just connection points but all important wiring.

A channel with a removable lid.

Or wall paneling made to be relatively easily removed.

Most builds don't do this to be sure

especially commercial products which are notoriously crap quality in general.

[tony.latham]

So... is it OK to bury wire connections within framing?

I'm a pure DC-kinda-guy and don't see any reason (or excuse) for it.



I think it would be crazy to use wire nuts on 120 v runs in a camper (or anywhere else) that aren't in an accessible box. There's a reason for the code.



Tony

[saltydawg]

I would recommend against it. If you had to do it for 12 volts, then I would sure as heck make sure its an air and water tight connection. Use adhesive lined heat shrink, and crimps are better than solder.

[swoody126]

sounds like an invitation for gremlins to not only visit butt to take up residency in your system

IMHO it is always best to make "home runs" not having any splices in wiring between fixtures/lights/outlets

crimp on connectors were saviors when they came on the scene

they were then followed by waterproof crimp on connectors which changed the game on boat trailers by leaps n bounds

i have recently(within the last coupla years) found waterproof low temp solder connectors which i have used along with the waterproof crimp ons for wiring a boat trailer that will get dunked in both fresh and salt water during it's expected adventures

most light fixtures i use on boat trailers come with pig tails which is the only place i make connections in the system

the old standard crimp ons come in a variety of styles

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the waterproof crimp ons look like the standard version except the plastic is translucent

you use them just like the standard units adding one more step where you use either a butane match or electric heat gun to shrink the plastic around the wire activating a waterproof sealant at the same time

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the low temp solder connectors have clear plastic w/ color coded markers and a ring of solder in the middle

you push your wires into the center of the connector in the ring of solder to where the opposing wires are pushed into each other

then you use a heat gun or butane match to melt the solder and shrink the clear plastic tubing while activating the waterproof sealant

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as mentioned above it is always best to have some form of easily removed covering(make it decorative and look like art work) over/at any point where any/all wires are connected in any manner

it is also best to make a loop in your run at connection points so you can pull the connector out for inspection/maintenance/repairs

BON CHANCE

sw

[John61CT]

The euro style WAGO connectors are much better than US style wire nuts. Can join fine-stranded with solid core no problem, very vibration resistant. . .

[working on it]

* In addition using all the connectors shown by swoody126 and John61CT, I also use Posi-Locks https://www.posi-products.com/index.html, to make sure the connections stay tight. I've used them for 20+ years, at home, work (had to use my own), and on my vehicles and trailers. Melted one on a header (dragrace Chevelle), but it never let go. I buy them via Amazon, usually.

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