GTS225 wrote:Solar panel to solar/charge control(ler), then to battery, with it's own fuse at battery +. (Don't go through the fuse/terminal panel.)
Master disconnect right at battery plus, then a master fuse right behind it.
You have battery negative (blue) coming off of terminals marked +. You should NOT run battery negative to your fuse panel, unless there's a dedicated ground/negative bus there.
I don't see fuses depicted (schematic symbol) on your drawing, but it looks like a pictorial representation on that terminal block in the center. Am I reading that correctly?
The purple "wires" aren't wires, are they? I think you're using those to represent remotely mounted switches?
Just my quick observations.....Roger
I found this fuse panel diagram online, I am assuming actual ones will be more clear for which are positive and negative. The purple "wires" are not wires, that is correct, it's just showing where the switches will be going.
Thanks for the solar charger -> battery and not through the panel info! I know I read that somewhere and I figured I was screwing something up when I was drawing this up.
Pmullen503 wrote:It looks like you have 12 fused circuits, if that isn't enough you can double up low amperage circuits like led lights.
Depending on your solar controller, it should have circuitry to handle the the battery/panel charge switch over. Consult the manual that came with it. But either the battery or the controller (usually) should be hooked up the fuse block, not both.
Sometimes, if the controller is designed to handle it, a high amperage device (like a big inverter) can be hooked directly to the battery. Again, consult the manual.
If you plan to have a 120V inverter and shore power as well, it is vastly simpler and safer to run separate shore power and inverter 120V circuits and do not cross connect the neutrals. (I personally, would never ground 120V power to the trailer frame.)
Yeah I think I will double up the internal lights since they will be LED, so both sets of reading lights and both sets of cabin lights should all share 1 fuse, if I decide to use the reading lights with USB ports, I'll separate them.
Are you saying don't use 120v circuits connected to the battery, but run a line for them via shore power only? I am likely getting a beefy battery so I was hoping that I could run everything off of that and not rely on being somewhere with shore power.