Step 3: Build the floor

[SteveH]

Vega,

Check out my gallery...I built at 60" wide on top of a 60" trailer frame AND covered the frame with the side sheet aluminum. I designed it that way from the get-go to get the max space inside, not go over 60", and cover the frame.

So far, it has worked out great with no problems.

[Vegabond9]

Steve, you built just about what I want in my TD. I really don't want two doors and I love the windows. Where did you get them?

[backwoodsman]

Use roof tar to coat the underside of the floor, making sure not to get any tar on the sides where the walls will be attached.

Roof Tar! Roof Tar?
What kind of roof tar?
I went to the hardware store and they recommended

204 Plastic Roof Cement made by Henry Company

http://www.henry.com/Patching_Repair_Cements.175.0.html

Will this work?
What did you use?

G

[stjohn]

This is what I used could not find what everybody else used they said it was the same thing Was really eeasy to work with got it at tractor supply

Mike

[SteveH]

Vagabond9,

I got my windows here: http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/product10238.html

They are the 15" X 24" size. They are actually designed to go horizontal, but I wanted them vertical to put the opening lower on the trailer so the breeze would hit me more when laying down. You do have to drill some new weep holes if you mount them vertically or they will leak water.

[madjack]

Greg...that may be a little heavy bodied...the link states that it is TROWEL grade...it would probably work but you should try and find something a little more "liquiddy" or "brush/roller" grade...that stuff may be more like tryin' to drink the corn mash instead of the drippin's
madjack

p.s. we used MinWax ClearShield a heavy bodied polyurethane that is UV protected and outdoor rated...it is expensive but we had it left over from a previous job

[stjohn]

Did somebody mention honeydew vine water