Step 15: Skin the exterior- Uniflex255

Here is a generic building plan for a teardrop designed by the members of T&TTT.

Step 15: Skin the exterior- Uniflex255

Postby mikeschn » Sun Oct 09, 2005 3:00 am

Step 15: Skin the exterior- Uniflex255

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There are a number of different ways to skin the exterior, aluminum, filon, pvc and more. I chose to paint the exterior with Uniflex255, a boat hull paint from the rot doctor. I figured if it was good enough for boat hulls, it was good enough for the teardrop.

The rot doctor recommends treating all surfaces with CPES before patching or painting. The CPES is a thinned out epoxy that penetrates into the grain of the wood, and hardening, creating a tough, durable seal, and will prevent the wood from rotting.

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Once the CPES is dry (at least several hours), the next step is to patch all holes and defects with Fill it Epoxy Filler.

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Let the Fill-It Epoxy filler cure overnight.

The next day use a combination of belt sander and random orbital sander to sand all that Filler smooth.

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Finally mix up your Uniflex 255 and apply with a solvent resistant roller.

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Postby Dan & Julie CO » Fri Jun 12, 2009 9:37 pm

Hey Mike I know this is an old thread but a good thread,did you apply two coats then patch holes and seems?
I was under the impression that the epoxy would need to coat the patch filler as well am I out of continuity ? thanks
:thinking:
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Postby mikeschn » Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:52 am

Dan & Julie CO wrote:Hey Mike I know this is an old thread but a good thread,did you apply two coats then patch holes and seems?
I was under the impression that the epoxy would need to coat the patch filler as well am I out of continuity ? thanks
:thinking:


Yes, I applied 2 coats of CPES. Then I patched the holes and seams.
Last I put on two coats of Uniflex 255.

I've done this with 2 trailers now, and it's a good flexible, durable surface, although it does get dirty.

I heard the Rot Doctor is not going to make this any more, due to new regulations, which would make it way too expensive to make. So when the current inventory is gone, that's it.

Mike...
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Postby Dan & Julie CO » Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:29 am

Wow I didn't know that :o what will be your fall back selection any thoughts?
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Postby mikeschn » Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:19 am

Dan & Julie CO wrote:Wow I didn't know that :o what will be your fall back selection any thoughts?


Currently I don't have any fallback plan.

I guess any of the traditional coverings would work, each with it's own limitations...

Aluminum, fiberglass, filon, woodie, etc...

some more ideas here... as well as the forum...

http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

Mike...
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Postby S. Heisley » Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:49 pm

I talked to the Rot Doctor this past winter about that the discontinuation of Uniflex 255. They said they were researching and thought they had found a future replacement. As far as application of their current product, they added two tips:

1) They said that Uniflex 255 could be brushed on with a paint brush, to obtain a smoother finish. (...That probably depends on the painter! :lol: )

2) They also said that, with proper painting preparation (washing off grease, etc.), any paint could be applied over the Uniflex 255.
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Postby honeycomb » Wed Jul 29, 2009 6:47 pm

Is Uniflex 255 still in production? And, if yes then for how much longer? Thanks.
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Postby mikeschn » Wed Jul 29, 2009 7:12 pm

I've not talked to them this year, but last year when I ordered a couple cans, they said, when it's gone, it's gone.

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